This is just to pass along some some new found knowledge about the aft holding tank on my H-40. First, there has been some mystery about it's capacity. Well, it is twelve gallons. How do I know that? I measured it as I pumped the tank dry with a portable Whale. Why would ANYONE want to do that??? Well, after going through about a hundred screws, removing most of the port setee and the cabin sole that covers the tank, I discovered that the tank had been leaking around the top cover. I also discovered that the tank is integral to the hull liner. As I removed the fiberglass tape that covered the seam around the top and pried the lid open, I was surprised to find a full tank! It had been pumped (I thought) before the boat was hauled. So, rather than try to rebed the cover with a mixture of 5200 and effluent, I disconnected the hose to the deck fitting, connected my portable Whale intake hose to the pipe that the deck fitting was connected to and started pumping. After maybe a gallon came out, I made another discovery. Since nothing but air (foul!) seemed to come out after a gallon or so, I began to wonder if the deck pumpout hose had been connected to the right pipe at the top of the tank. It wasn't! After connecting the Whale to the pipe that had been connected to the toilet discharge, I pumped the remainder of the twelve gallons into a bucket and emptied that into a real toilet ashore. For anyone else who wonders why the tank seems to fill up so quickly, check the hose connections! The aft-most pipe from the tank is the one that's supposed to be connected to the deck fitting. It is the one that runs inside the tank to the bottom. The other one (Intake) only extends an inch or so inside the tank top, so it doesn't work too well as a discharge! So today, I will rebed the top. I also intend to add screws around the tank top where there were none before. The OEM method of non-hardening caulk with the seam then covered with F/G tape just doesn't seem a very effective means of holding that cover in place, especially as the boat heels, etc. Mine had been leaking under the fiberglass tape in several places. This time I will use 3M 5200 for it's adhesive qualities, and will back it up with #12 screws, also well bedded in 5200. I'll let it cure for a week or so, then overfill the tank with water from the deck fitting to check for leaks. If there are none, back goes the cabin sole. Next project: Install a Type I MSD (Lectra-San) on the aft head. Norm, H-40 "LIBERTY"
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Installing a Lectra/San
Before deciding on a location, it would be a good idea to read the Lectra/San installation and maintenance guide--which you can download and print from the Raritan website at http://www.raritaneng.com It should be installed at or below the same level as the toilet, and within 6' of the toilet. If you can't do that, call Raritan before installing...there are some workarounds, but after you've installed it outside their spec'd tolerances isn't the time to find out about them.
Before deciding on a location, it would be a good idea to read the Lectra/San installation and maintenance guide--which you can download and print from the Raritan website at http://www.raritaneng.com It should be installed at or below the same level as the toilet, and within 6' of the toilet. If you can't do that, call Raritan before installing...there are some workarounds, but after you've installed it outside their spec'd tolerances isn't the time to find out about them.
H-40 Lectra-San
In response to Peggy Hall and Rick, I had planned to squeeze the L/S into the under sink cabinet, but, alas, the L/S is not too flexible. Now, the location I'm looking at is under the port settee in the main salon. I will probably cut a rectangular hole in the cabin sole to get the L/S intake port a bit lower, but it's just about at the same height as the discharge even without recessing it into the cabin sole. I still have to measure the distance from the head discharge, but it looks like it's just about six feet. The only difficulty appears to be an exposed location between the nav table and the settee where I will have to run the two hoses and the electrical wiring. I'm thinking about building a teak step- shaped cover to hide the hoses. For Peggy: What do you think about using 1 1/2 " PVC pipe to make part of the run between the L/S and the head and overboard discharges? The white head hose seems to have a rather large bend radius which makes it difficult to use in tight quarters. I am thinking about using PVC with either 45 or 90 degree angles at either end for the main run between head, overboard and L/S. Seems like it should be OK. That's what is used most of the time in home plumbing lines. I would still use hose for the actual connections. I will be checking the plumbing supply places to see if the white hose will fit over PVC, or if hose barbs are available.
In response to Peggy Hall and Rick, I had planned to squeeze the L/S into the under sink cabinet, but, alas, the L/S is not too flexible. Now, the location I'm looking at is under the port settee in the main salon. I will probably cut a rectangular hole in the cabin sole to get the L/S intake port a bit lower, but it's just about at the same height as the discharge even without recessing it into the cabin sole. I still have to measure the distance from the head discharge, but it looks like it's just about six feet. The only difficulty appears to be an exposed location between the nav table and the settee where I will have to run the two hoses and the electrical wiring. I'm thinking about building a teak step- shaped cover to hide the hoses. For Peggy: What do you think about using 1 1/2 " PVC pipe to make part of the run between the L/S and the head and overboard discharges? The white head hose seems to have a rather large bend radius which makes it difficult to use in tight quarters. I am thinking about using PVC with either 45 or 90 degree angles at either end for the main run between head, overboard and L/S. Seems like it should be OK. That's what is used most of the time in home plumbing lines. I would still use hose for the actual connections. I will be checking the plumbing supply places to see if the white hose will fit over PVC, or if hose barbs are available.
I wouldn't use PVC...
...except for long STRAIGHT runs. Instead, use a 45 or 90 inline radius hose fitting to go around "corners" that are tighter than hose wants to bend easily. At least hose does bend...you'd only need inline fittings to go around tight bends... You'd need many more unions in rigid pipe, and every union is a potential leak. PVC is fine in houses...houses aren't subjected to the stresses that boats are, especially sailboats, nor is the piping in houses subjected to the same temperature extremes that it is on boats..exposed sections are inside where the climate is controlled...outside, it's buried in the ground...it doesn't get bounced around much in either place, whereas it's constantly bounced around on a boat.
...except for long STRAIGHT runs. Instead, use a 45 or 90 inline radius hose fitting to go around "corners" that are tighter than hose wants to bend easily. At least hose does bend...you'd only need inline fittings to go around tight bends... You'd need many more unions in rigid pipe, and every union is a potential leak. PVC is fine in houses...houses aren't subjected to the stresses that boats are, especially sailboats, nor is the piping in houses subjected to the same temperature extremes that it is on boats..exposed sections are inside where the climate is controlled...outside, it's buried in the ground...it doesn't get bounced around much in either place, whereas it's constantly bounced around on a boat.
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