I have a 1981 H-30. The double deck organizer's sheaves are both shot. Is it as simple as removing the two bolts on top of the organizer to replace the sheaves? Are there nuts on the other end of the bolts that will need to be held in order to remove/install the bolts?
H-30 Deck Organizer question
- Thread starter Danny4719
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Probably backing plates
Danny: You can just remove one of these bolts. I would assume that there is an aluminum back plate that is glassed into the deck. Some of these blocks are no longer made and you may need to drill/tap an new hole if the spacing is not the same (and they usually are not)
Danny: You can just remove one of these bolts. I would assume that there is an aluminum back plate that is glassed into the deck. Some of these blocks are no longer made and you may need to drill/tap an new hole if the spacing is not the same (and they usually are not)
backing plates
Can anybody verify whether or not there are backing plates glassed in? I was shocked to discover a couple of months ago that the cabintop handrails on my '78 H30 were screwed into the deck core, rather than through-bolted and backed with backing plates. I'd really like to know if any of the deck hardware is through-bolted, or if it's all screwed into the core. Has anybody cut out the fiberglass headliner and through-bolted all of the deck hardware?
Can anybody verify whether or not there are backing plates glassed in? I was shocked to discover a couple of months ago that the cabintop handrails on my '78 H30 were screwed into the deck core, rather than through-bolted and backed with backing plates. I'd really like to know if any of the deck hardware is through-bolted, or if it's all screwed into the core. Has anybody cut out the fiberglass headliner and through-bolted all of the deck hardware?
Backing Plates
I have an '81 Cherubini H-33, so I expect some differences, but I suspect many similarities. The 33 has aluminum plates molded into the fiberglass in several areas, including where the deck organizers are. A couple ways to tell: 1) remove the bolts holding your deck organizer and look down the holes with a good flashlight, I was able to see metal threads, of course that might just mean nuts imbeded in the glass. 2) pick up an electronic stud finder, the sort that uses ultrasonics to identify changes in density. I have a Zircon Tri-Scanner Pro that I picked up at Home Depot for about $35 several years ago. When I replaced my rope clutches I needed to drill and tap new threads. I used the stud finder to identify the edges of the imbedded plate. Place the stud finder on the deck a few inches away from where you suspect the plate is, switch it on, and slowly move toward the plate. As the stud finder moves over the edge of the plate it'll signal a "stud". It only took a minute to fully identify the perimeter of the plate I was looking for. As the Eric noted, the hand rails are screwed into the deck. Might be nice if they had backing plates, but I've never heard of one pulling out. Through bolting would be stronger, but then you'd have all those ugly nuts or bolts showing from the inside. Hope this helps.
I have an '81 Cherubini H-33, so I expect some differences, but I suspect many similarities. The 33 has aluminum plates molded into the fiberglass in several areas, including where the deck organizers are. A couple ways to tell: 1) remove the bolts holding your deck organizer and look down the holes with a good flashlight, I was able to see metal threads, of course that might just mean nuts imbeded in the glass. 2) pick up an electronic stud finder, the sort that uses ultrasonics to identify changes in density. I have a Zircon Tri-Scanner Pro that I picked up at Home Depot for about $35 several years ago. When I replaced my rope clutches I needed to drill and tap new threads. I used the stud finder to identify the edges of the imbedded plate. Place the stud finder on the deck a few inches away from where you suspect the plate is, switch it on, and slowly move toward the plate. As the stud finder moves over the edge of the plate it'll signal a "stud". It only took a minute to fully identify the perimeter of the plate I was looking for. As the Eric noted, the hand rails are screwed into the deck. Might be nice if they had backing plates, but I've never heard of one pulling out. Through bolting would be stronger, but then you'd have all those ugly nuts or bolts showing from the inside. Hope this helps.
Probably screws.
My 1979 H37C had a single deck organizer(actually a cheek block) for the main sheet. It was simply screwed into the coring. However there was plywood at that point, not the normal end-grain balsa. If and when I ever run my lines back I will thru-bolt the deck organizers and clutches. I will use large Fender washers and nice acorn nuts on the inside. And not worry about the esthetics. As for the cabin roof handrails they are all screwed into the coring. I have drilled the holes to 1/2" and inserted 2" dowels that were soaked in epoxy. Then I drilled new holes for the screws. The problem with thru-bolting is that there are inside rails along the same line. If conditions are such that I cannot trust those rails then I hook a harness to a jackline.
My 1979 H37C had a single deck organizer(actually a cheek block) for the main sheet. It was simply screwed into the coring. However there was plywood at that point, not the normal end-grain balsa. If and when I ever run my lines back I will thru-bolt the deck organizers and clutches. I will use large Fender washers and nice acorn nuts on the inside. And not worry about the esthetics. As for the cabin roof handrails they are all screwed into the coring. I have drilled the holes to 1/2" and inserted 2" dowels that were soaked in epoxy. Then I drilled new holes for the screws. The problem with thru-bolting is that there are inside rails along the same line. If conditions are such that I cannot trust those rails then I hook a harness to a jackline.
My 81' H30 has...
My 81' H30 has aluminum plates glassed into the deck for the deck organizers. The boat came with one deck organizer, and I replaced that one and installed a second on the other side last year as part of my main sheet upgrade project. I used all Garhauer gear on the new install. The bolt holes did not line up so I had to drill 1 new hole on the replacement side. I used West Epoxy to fill the holes and form threads around the new bolts. I did not see a need to through bolt the deck organizers as they only see lateral load. On the 3 point pad eye I installed to route the mainsheet, I drilled all the way through and put a stainless backing plate in the cabin right behind the mast. It's not the pretties thing in the world, but if you want to add a boom vang of anything else, it will take the load (the backing plate is about 3" X 6" X 1/4" think, with 4 bolts holding it to the pad eye). I took a ton of photos during the install. Email me at sfsound@exis.net if you want to see some of them.
My 81' H30 has aluminum plates glassed into the deck for the deck organizers. The boat came with one deck organizer, and I replaced that one and installed a second on the other side last year as part of my main sheet upgrade project. I used all Garhauer gear on the new install. The bolt holes did not line up so I had to drill 1 new hole on the replacement side. I used West Epoxy to fill the holes and form threads around the new bolts. I did not see a need to through bolt the deck organizers as they only see lateral load. On the 3 point pad eye I installed to route the mainsheet, I drilled all the way through and put a stainless backing plate in the cabin right behind the mast. It's not the pretties thing in the world, but if you want to add a boom vang of anything else, it will take the load (the backing plate is about 3" X 6" X 1/4" think, with 4 bolts holding it to the pad eye). I took a ton of photos during the install. Email me at sfsound@exis.net if you want to see some of them.
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