H-26 Cabin Sole Screw Hole Repair

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BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
I am in the process of chasing down several leaks in my H-26. The boat is currently on a trailer on the hard. I suspect some of the leaks to be from screw protrusions into the water ballast tank. I would appreciate some advice on how to approach these repairs.
1) Two Porta-potty anchor screws.. They are stripped out of the sole and need replacement. Do I need to re-drill fresh new holes immediately adjacent to the old holes? If so, how do I properly finish the "abandoned" old holes? Are the original screws designed to protrude or NOT protrude into the water ballast tank? What length screws should I use?
2) Bilge pump screws. I have several "abandoned" old unfilled screw holes. Water ozzes up through these when I push down on the embedded block in the bottom of the bilge. How do I properly finish these abandoned holes? What is the embedded block made from (e.g., plywood)?

In this repair process I need to remain aware of the relative depths of the cabin sole liner, and where the top of the water ballast tank begins. Any suggestions on how to gauge the location and thickness of each layer? Thank you for your advice in advance! BrianW
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,612
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
Inject Epoxy Resin

If the holes are wet injecting acetone with a syringe will dry them out. Then epoxy the strainer for the bilge pump rather than screw it on. You could also epoxy a small piece of wood and screw into that to hold the bilge pump. The brackets for the portipottie I would bet should be a number 8 or perhaps a 10 3/8" long
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Brian;

Never put screws into the water ballast tank lid particulay where the crapper goes or porta turdie. If you do, then it will be a nightmnare to repair. If you can use larger screws that will go thru the brackets, then that is the way to go. I cannot recall the thickness of the flooring there but no more than 1/2 to 3/4 inch I suspect.

As for the bilge area, an easy way is to screw in a larger screw with 5200. As rick mentioned, the area needs to be dry with the boat out of the water for the entire hole to be dry for a while and do indeed use acetone to dry it further.

Prefereablyl, I would cut out and reglass the area but most were not willing to do that privately. If you want, you can email me a photo of the area to davecondon@mindspring.com and I will be in a better position to advise.

crazy dave condon
 
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