I just bought a 1975 H 25. I had always subscribed to the "have a friend who has a boat" theory, but ran out of friends. The outboard is a 1975 Evinrude 7.5, I am giving thought to replacing it with something newer, bigger, with electric start
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Great little boat!
Bryan: This is a great little starter boat. It was also my first boat. I think you would want to look for a Honda, Yamaha, Tohatsu or any of the other quality 4 stroke engines with a long shaft or sailor models (even longer) with an alternator. As far as refinishing the decks, there is a thread going on about using paint vs gel coat finishes now that you should look up. If you use gel-coat it will be very durable and look like an original finish. It is also less expensive than a 2-part poly paint, but more expensive than house paint. I would think that a new model of the CDI furler would be a good choice for this boat. As far as NOT being out in 6' seas and 35 knot winds, you really cannot forcast this. You need to be prepared. These boats are very stable and CAN take it. You should be able to get some advice on tuning the rigging from fellow sailors. You can also look into Brion Toss's rigging books/videos. www.briontoss.com Good luck with the new toy!
Bryan: This is a great little starter boat. It was also my first boat. I think you would want to look for a Honda, Yamaha, Tohatsu or any of the other quality 4 stroke engines with a long shaft or sailor models (even longer) with an alternator. As far as refinishing the decks, there is a thread going on about using paint vs gel coat finishes now that you should look up. If you use gel-coat it will be very durable and look like an original finish. It is also less expensive than a 2-part poly paint, but more expensive than house paint. I would think that a new model of the CDI furler would be a good choice for this boat. As far as NOT being out in 6' seas and 35 knot winds, you really cannot forcast this. You need to be prepared. These boats are very stable and CAN take it. You should be able to get some advice on tuning the rigging from fellow sailors. You can also look into Brion Toss's rigging books/videos. www.briontoss.com Good luck with the new toy!
J
John Allison
Hope this helps!
I have a 1979 H25 which I purchased in the fall of 1996. Mine was in quite good shape when I got it, so did not have many problems to deal with right off the bat other than cleaning and redoing the teak. However, some of the questions you asked, I can help with. You asked about the iron sail, I have a 1981 Mercury 9.8 and would not go smaller in size. I sail Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron and Lake Erie. The motor is just enough to push the boat into a stiff breeze with the associated waves. Also, I have both the Detroit River (approx 3kn dead center current) and the St. Clair River (6kn dead center current in spots) to deal with and this taxes my motor. Long shaft is a must, if you want to keep the prop in the water in a chop and I do know that the Potomac can kick up especially around Colonial Beach. As far as refinishing of the non-skid goes, I had mine done professionally 4 years ago (approx cost $375 plus materials)and it still looks good except on the cockpit floor. There has been a lot of discussion recently on the Hunter Web (hunter-list@sailnet.net) concerning this and some really economic ways to do this including using Home Depot's best semi-gloss latex enamel with non-skid micro balloons. This Web Site is another real source of information. Rigging is another matter yet. I have tried the eyeball method (ie tight windward, just loose leeward in a good breeze) but do not like the guess-work involved here. Quite frankly, I use the Loos Rigging Gage (sold by both West Marine and BoatsUS) and use the values suggested by them. Set up with slight aft mast rake (approx 5") for most of your sailing. There is a manual on the 25 which can be purchased from Hunter Marine or which I can copy and send to you. It is a help in understanding your boat (it's electrical circuitry, plumbing, etc.). Other comments concern: a. the ability to access the mounting bolts and the cockpit drain fittings. I finally cut a hole in the aft lazarete tray (12 x 18) for access. There is also a removable panel at the aft end of the port bunk; b. the single aft cockpit drain which provides for slow drainage of the cockpit should you get pooped. I made the boat single-hand friendly by adding a roller furler and running halyards back to the cockpit. Sure saves getting on deck when you really do not want to be there. Lazy jacs were there when I purchased the boat, but I am still not sure if these are help or hinderance. All in all, it is a great sailing boat, easy to handle and tough in the clutches. It is somewhat tender up to a heel of about 15 degrees but, at that point, hardens up and sails like a dream. I have had mine out in some pretty nasty weather, and "Whisper" handled it light a real champ. Cut my boating teeth in your area. Bought my first boat at the Colonial Beach Yacht Club (on the point)and kept it at Dahlgren. The lower Potomac and the Bay were my stomping grounds. At least until, DOD, in all its infinite Wisdom, decided to transfer me to the Detroit, Michigan area.
I have a 1979 H25 which I purchased in the fall of 1996. Mine was in quite good shape when I got it, so did not have many problems to deal with right off the bat other than cleaning and redoing the teak. However, some of the questions you asked, I can help with. You asked about the iron sail, I have a 1981 Mercury 9.8 and would not go smaller in size. I sail Lake St. Clair, Lake Huron and Lake Erie. The motor is just enough to push the boat into a stiff breeze with the associated waves. Also, I have both the Detroit River (approx 3kn dead center current) and the St. Clair River (6kn dead center current in spots) to deal with and this taxes my motor. Long shaft is a must, if you want to keep the prop in the water in a chop and I do know that the Potomac can kick up especially around Colonial Beach. As far as refinishing of the non-skid goes, I had mine done professionally 4 years ago (approx cost $375 plus materials)and it still looks good except on the cockpit floor. There has been a lot of discussion recently on the Hunter Web (hunter-list@sailnet.net) concerning this and some really economic ways to do this including using Home Depot's best semi-gloss latex enamel with non-skid micro balloons. This Web Site is another real source of information. Rigging is another matter yet. I have tried the eyeball method (ie tight windward, just loose leeward in a good breeze) but do not like the guess-work involved here. Quite frankly, I use the Loos Rigging Gage (sold by both West Marine and BoatsUS) and use the values suggested by them. Set up with slight aft mast rake (approx 5") for most of your sailing. There is a manual on the 25 which can be purchased from Hunter Marine or which I can copy and send to you. It is a help in understanding your boat (it's electrical circuitry, plumbing, etc.). Other comments concern: a. the ability to access the mounting bolts and the cockpit drain fittings. I finally cut a hole in the aft lazarete tray (12 x 18) for access. There is also a removable panel at the aft end of the port bunk; b. the single aft cockpit drain which provides for slow drainage of the cockpit should you get pooped. I made the boat single-hand friendly by adding a roller furler and running halyards back to the cockpit. Sure saves getting on deck when you really do not want to be there. Lazy jacs were there when I purchased the boat, but I am still not sure if these are help or hinderance. All in all, it is a great sailing boat, easy to handle and tough in the clutches. It is somewhat tender up to a heel of about 15 degrees but, at that point, hardens up and sails like a dream. I have had mine out in some pretty nasty weather, and "Whisper" handled it light a real champ. Cut my boating teeth in your area. Bought my first boat at the Colonial Beach Yacht Club (on the point)and kept it at Dahlgren. The lower Potomac and the Bay were my stomping grounds. At least until, DOD, in all its infinite Wisdom, decided to transfer me to the Detroit, Michigan area.
R
ramu nallamala
o/b motor
bryan, re: your question of motor. i bought our 1978 hunter 25 2 years ago without a motor. After looking long and hard for a used motor...i finally bought new. Although a well maintained o/b should last for decades....i was never quite sure if the seller had taken care of it properly, especially concerning with saltwater use. Also, the pickings were slim in terms of HP choice AND in extended shaft models. So i bought a Mercury 6HP extended shaft 20" 2 stroke. I wanted the reliablity of a new engine first of all. then you must have the extended shaft or you will pull the prop our in waves or even if all your crew goes forward to the bow......engine will suck air....poop out and you will be drifting. re: 2 stroke it was just cheaper and mixing oil/fuel is no big deal. re: horsepower.....6hp is adequate to get thru rough chop and modest tide shifts.....i have not taken it thru the inlet against the tide....but i do not think it would be a problem.......... its a great boat......good luck. ramu s/v tarheel
bryan, re: your question of motor. i bought our 1978 hunter 25 2 years ago without a motor. After looking long and hard for a used motor...i finally bought new. Although a well maintained o/b should last for decades....i was never quite sure if the seller had taken care of it properly, especially concerning with saltwater use. Also, the pickings were slim in terms of HP choice AND in extended shaft models. So i bought a Mercury 6HP extended shaft 20" 2 stroke. I wanted the reliablity of a new engine first of all. then you must have the extended shaft or you will pull the prop our in waves or even if all your crew goes forward to the bow......engine will suck air....poop out and you will be drifting. re: 2 stroke it was just cheaper and mixing oil/fuel is no big deal. re: horsepower.....6hp is adequate to get thru rough chop and modest tide shifts.....i have not taken it thru the inlet against the tide....but i do not think it would be a problem.......... its a great boat......good luck. ramu s/v tarheel
1976 H 25
I have a 1976 H25 with a Johnson 8 hp sailmaster, long shaft that came with the boat when I bought it. I have owned several motors in the past and if dollers permit would advise buying the 9.9 yamaha 4 stroke with long shaft. It comes with a special prop for heavy displacement boats and has the equilivent thrust of a 30 hp 2 stroke, forward and reverse. It kept me out of a bind many times, inland and offshore and has the power to get you off the ground per chance that would happen, and it will. The 8 hp sailmaster is ok but a little light in a current or strong winds and don't have much power to push you off of a mud bank. Great little boat, very strong and safe, I have really enjoyed mine. Good luck!
I have a 1976 H25 with a Johnson 8 hp sailmaster, long shaft that came with the boat when I bought it. I have owned several motors in the past and if dollers permit would advise buying the 9.9 yamaha 4 stroke with long shaft. It comes with a special prop for heavy displacement boats and has the equilivent thrust of a 30 hp 2 stroke, forward and reverse. It kept me out of a bind many times, inland and offshore and has the power to get you off the ground per chance that would happen, and it will. The 8 hp sailmaster is ok but a little light in a current or strong winds and don't have much power to push you off of a mud bank. Great little boat, very strong and safe, I have really enjoyed mine. Good luck!
D
David Foster
How we tune our rig
We hired an instructor (Carl Romig of Adventure Plus in Sandusky, OH) on our first week-end with Lady Lillie (our '77 h27 - very similar to the h25) to run us through safety, tune our rig, and then take us for a day long review of sailing a keel boat. He recommended tensions around 420 for the lowers and 550 for the uppers (that's either side of 10% of the rated strength of our 3/16's stays. First we set the rake with a weight on the main halyard about 7 inches behind the mast at the height of the boom. John Cherubini, Jr. said in a recent post that he remembered 12 inches measured at the deck. The target according to John is a 4 percent rake, since wind blows down on the water at about that angle. The the head and back stays are tightened together to their their tension, by taking the same number of turns on each in steps, and measuring the result with the Loos guage. The top side stays are then positioned by measuring from the main halyard to the plates on both sides to be sure they are the same length (and, therefore, that the mast is centered side to side.) Then both are tightened to their tension. Then the lower stays are adjusted so that the mast is "in column" that is, straight, with no bend side to side, or fore and aft. Once the mast is in column, the lower stays are tightened to their tension. Then, it's around one more time to get the tensions right, always tightening opposing stays the same number of turns, and then measuring. That's it. Our mast comes down each year, so I'm getting pretty good at this. It's true that there is no official number for the tension. But the minimum condition is that there is never any sag under any sailing conditions. Although the tension on the downwind stays will decrease, this should never loosen them enough to sag - that's a danger to the rig. David Lady Lillie
We hired an instructor (Carl Romig of Adventure Plus in Sandusky, OH) on our first week-end with Lady Lillie (our '77 h27 - very similar to the h25) to run us through safety, tune our rig, and then take us for a day long review of sailing a keel boat. He recommended tensions around 420 for the lowers and 550 for the uppers (that's either side of 10% of the rated strength of our 3/16's stays. First we set the rake with a weight on the main halyard about 7 inches behind the mast at the height of the boom. John Cherubini, Jr. said in a recent post that he remembered 12 inches measured at the deck. The target according to John is a 4 percent rake, since wind blows down on the water at about that angle. The the head and back stays are tightened together to their their tension, by taking the same number of turns on each in steps, and measuring the result with the Loos guage. The top side stays are then positioned by measuring from the main halyard to the plates on both sides to be sure they are the same length (and, therefore, that the mast is centered side to side.) Then both are tightened to their tension. Then the lower stays are adjusted so that the mast is "in column" that is, straight, with no bend side to side, or fore and aft. Once the mast is in column, the lower stays are tightened to their tension. Then, it's around one more time to get the tensions right, always tightening opposing stays the same number of turns, and then measuring. That's it. Our mast comes down each year, so I'm getting pretty good at this. It's true that there is no official number for the tension. But the minimum condition is that there is never any sag under any sailing conditions. Although the tension on the downwind stays will decrease, this should never loosen them enough to sag - that's a danger to the rig. David Lady Lillie
J
Jack Harness
H-25
I have a H-25, 1977, I use a Johnson 7.5 horse and it brings me up to hull speed with no problems. I do race my Hunter, since its a mast head rig, I keep the stays at 45# and the shrouds at about 35#. I have had no problems with the 7.5 horse motor in 4 to 5 foot waves.
I have a H-25, 1977, I use a Johnson 7.5 horse and it brings me up to hull speed with no problems. I do race my Hunter, since its a mast head rig, I keep the stays at 45# and the shrouds at about 35#. I have had no problems with the 7.5 horse motor in 4 to 5 foot waves.
B
Bryan Howell
Thanks a million/One more question
First, I can't believe the number and quality of responses I have received to my initial posting. I have missed the camaraderie of he sailing community, and I just got reintroduced to it. Thanks. John Allison, you offered a Manual. I contacted Hunter as was told they have bits and pieces, "not much" in their terms. iI you could somehow arrange for me to get a copy of yours I would be glad to pay for copy and shipping. I can be reached at BHowell123@aol.com. I am goignto keep my boat wither at CBYC or Bayside, making that decision this weekend. I have been convinced not to try to motor my boat (not sail ready yet)the 40-50 Potomac River miles from Ft. Belvoir to Colonial Beach in Janaury with a 26 year old outboard that has not been used for years. Good advice, I think. Anyone know someone who can trailer the boat down, or rent me a trailer to do same?
First, I can't believe the number and quality of responses I have received to my initial posting. I have missed the camaraderie of he sailing community, and I just got reintroduced to it. Thanks. John Allison, you offered a Manual. I contacted Hunter as was told they have bits and pieces, "not much" in their terms. iI you could somehow arrange for me to get a copy of yours I would be glad to pay for copy and shipping. I can be reached at BHowell123@aol.com. I am goignto keep my boat wither at CBYC or Bayside, making that decision this weekend. I have been convinced not to try to motor my boat (not sail ready yet)the 40-50 Potomac River miles from Ft. Belvoir to Colonial Beach in Janaury with a 26 year old outboard that has not been used for years. Good advice, I think. Anyone know someone who can trailer the boat down, or rent me a trailer to do same?
J
John Allison
Need some help
Bryan, I tried to send this message to you at your internet address but keeps kicking back. What I need is your mailing address. I will try to get something in the mail this weekend if I get your address in time. If not, I will be on travel and not back until the 21st of this month. No charge except for possibly an evening sail when I get down that way. I teach a 1 week course at Ft. A.P.Hill every year.
Bryan, I tried to send this message to you at your internet address but keeps kicking back. What I need is your mailing address. I will try to get something in the mail this weekend if I get your address in time. If not, I will be on travel and not back until the 21st of this month. No charge except for possibly an evening sail when I get down that way. I teach a 1 week course at Ft. A.P.Hill every year.
B
Bryan Howell
John Allison, thanks
John; Thanks for the try. Sometimes my e-mail address is hard to read as 2 "L"s followed by a "1" look a lot alike. Anyway, the email is BHowell 123 @ aol.com. No space betwen the last "L" and the "1". Mailing address is 790 Winterberry Drive, Fredericksburg, Va 22405. My wife works for DFAS, DoD, which is why we are here, as opposed to being with my beloved mountains in Colorado, from where we just moved. So I can relate, but wow, Va to Detroit? That sucks! You have your sail any time you want it. Actually I may well put the boat at Colonial Beach Yacht Center. My home tel. number is 540-368-2777. Call any time you are in the area. Thanks again. Bryan Howell
John; Thanks for the try. Sometimes my e-mail address is hard to read as 2 "L"s followed by a "1" look a lot alike. Anyway, the email is BHowell 123 @ aol.com. No space betwen the last "L" and the "1". Mailing address is 790 Winterberry Drive, Fredericksburg, Va 22405. My wife works for DFAS, DoD, which is why we are here, as opposed to being with my beloved mountains in Colorado, from where we just moved. So I can relate, but wow, Va to Detroit? That sucks! You have your sail any time you want it. Actually I may well put the boat at Colonial Beach Yacht Center. My home tel. number is 540-368-2777. Call any time you are in the area. Thanks again. Bryan Howell
D
DOUG
SAME/SAME
BRYAN,I ALSO PURCHASED A ESTATE SALE H25 IT SAT FOR 2 YEARS.IT HAS A 10 HP LONG SHAFT.I THINK IT NEEDS TO BE LONG FOR ROUGH WATER.THE BOAT SAILS GREAT.I SAIL LAKE ERIE.IF I CAN HELP LET ME KNOW,SKIK24EVR@HOTMAIL.COM I JUST BOUGHT MINE LAST JULY.IM STILL WORKING ON MAKING IT NEW.
BRYAN,I ALSO PURCHASED A ESTATE SALE H25 IT SAT FOR 2 YEARS.IT HAS A 10 HP LONG SHAFT.I THINK IT NEEDS TO BE LONG FOR ROUGH WATER.THE BOAT SAILS GREAT.I SAIL LAKE ERIE.IF I CAN HELP LET ME KNOW,SKIK24EVR@HOTMAIL.COM I JUST BOUGHT MINE LAST JULY.IM STILL WORKING ON MAKING IT NEW.
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