I just took delivery of a 2001 240. So far, she is great. But her original owner did something to the downhaul/uphaul lines on the rudder and I can't figure out the configuration from the manual. Is it supposed to be one line that acts as a downhaul AND and uphaul??? It's very confusing in the owners manual... While we are on the topic...has anybody done a re-fit to make the downhaul any easier. I really need to put some muscle to it to get her back down (could be the current line configuration). Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks Gary
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You are correct about the lines
*5 You are correct,one line hauls the rudderup,and the other hauls it down. I usually stepon it to sink it,and pullit up with onehand,whileI am taking the slack up on the the up-haul line. A winch would be a great idea....
*5 You are correct,one line hauls the rudderup,and the other hauls it down. I usually stepon it to sink it,and pullit up with onehand,whileI am taking the slack up on the the up-haul line. A winch would be a great idea....
Rudder lines
Everybody complains about the H240/260 rudder but I've found it to be pretty straight forward. The hardest part is pinning the rudder in the down position. You just step on it while pulling up on the line, slide the marelon pin (not the metal one) into the hole. This action requires some physical flexibility and agility on your part. If you don't fall in the the water while doing this, the toughest part is over. The first few times I tried this it was a little awkward, but now I don't give it much thought. Rraising the rudder is easy; tension the line so you can pull the pin and the rudder bobs to the surface. This works for late model boats. Hunter has apparently modified the rudder setup over the years.
Everybody complains about the H240/260 rudder but I've found it to be pretty straight forward. The hardest part is pinning the rudder in the down position. You just step on it while pulling up on the line, slide the marelon pin (not the metal one) into the hole. This action requires some physical flexibility and agility on your part. If you don't fall in the the water while doing this, the toughest part is over. The first few times I tried this it was a little awkward, but now I don't give it much thought. Rraising the rudder is easy; tension the line so you can pull the pin and the rudder bobs to the surface. This works for late model boats. Hunter has apparently modified the rudder setup over the years.
240 Rudder
A rope should go down the rudder post around a pulley and back up and tie off to the rudder pin. That pulley has a line that goes down and connected to the rudder, giving you the purchase you really do need to lower the rudder. As like the others, hold the rope with tention, have the rudder lying in the water and give it a good push with your foot down as you pull on the rope and its done. Well someimes it on the second attempt that is. I found on the forum a great cleat which under pressure flips up, perfect for cleating the rudder line. It is my auto depth gauge and don't have to worry about shear pins good luck and enjoy
A rope should go down the rudder post around a pulley and back up and tie off to the rudder pin. That pulley has a line that goes down and connected to the rudder, giving you the purchase you really do need to lower the rudder. As like the others, hold the rope with tention, have the rudder lying in the water and give it a good push with your foot down as you pull on the rope and its done. Well someimes it on the second attempt that is. I found on the forum a great cleat which under pressure flips up, perfect for cleating the rudder line. It is my auto depth gauge and don't have to worry about shear pins good luck and enjoy
Pin ??
George, I have only had one pin on my rudder (and purchased it new). I was never briefed (by the dealer)that a pin was to be used to hold the rudder, while I was under sail...only when the boat is being trailered,and the pin holds the rudder up... Did someone (the dealer)forget to tell me something ??
George, I have only had one pin on my rudder (and purchased it new). I was never briefed (by the dealer)that a pin was to be used to hold the rudder, while I was under sail...only when the boat is being trailered,and the pin holds the rudder up... Did someone (the dealer)forget to tell me something ??
Breaakable Pin
Apparenly newer models come with a breakaway pin that you put thru the hole to hold the rudder DOWN. It will break when the rudder hits bottom and allow the rudder to kick up. Should be an easy project to do. Even use a small dowel. The 2002 and before do not have this. If you cleat the rudder down with the line, it will NOT kick up. I was the one who found the Sea Dog releasing cleat and convinced JSI (Now Sailnet) to get some. But if you are always in deep water you may not need it.
Apparenly newer models come with a breakaway pin that you put thru the hole to hold the rudder DOWN. It will break when the rudder hits bottom and allow the rudder to kick up. Should be an easy project to do. Even use a small dowel. The 2002 and before do not have this. If you cleat the rudder down with the line, it will NOT kick up. I was the one who found the Sea Dog releasing cleat and convinced JSI (Now Sailnet) to get some. But if you are always in deep water you may not need it.
Thanks
The releasing cleat sounds great...where can I find one (I tried sailnet)... Thanks to everyone for the responses and ideas. Gary
The releasing cleat sounds great...where can I find one (I tried sailnet)... Thanks to everyone for the responses and ideas. Gary
H 240 rudder cleat
Thanks Bill for the cleat idea, has worked great for me. Pin does not work for me as I sail in too many shallow areas. URL is below and have typed here for you http://www.clamcleat-rope-cleats.com/ click on the specialitised heading and scroll down.
Thanks Bill for the cleat idea, has worked great for me. Pin does not work for me as I sail in too many shallow areas. URL is below and have typed here for you http://www.clamcleat-rope-cleats.com/ click on the specialitised heading and scroll down.
forced refit
during a launch I did not secure the uphaul line while backing out, the line fouled the o/b and I lost power. after scrambling to set an anchor, clearing the prop, and restarting
lenty of fun in a crowded moring area, solo, in high winds with no balast water in the tank yet! I did not want to replace the entire line since the boat was in the water and kept in a slip. I only replaced the uphaul line with a red line and left the original black line for the downhaul. the differant lines make it easy to pull the correct line. I feed them both through the cleat (center) and knotted the ends so they won't pull through. with both lines in the center of the cleat they are very tight and do not need to be tied, I do hitch the up haul because it does tend to extend on longer faster sails. with the downhaul loose it will not prevent the ruddur from lifting on a grounding. The 260 I have (2001) has a tension bolt and leaver to secure the rudder in the down position, this allows the rudder to lift but also allows the rudder to lift slightly while under way in heavy conditions. usually not a big deal to loosen, step on rudder to reset and retighten while underway. The uphaul line also acts a a speed indicator, it starts humming at 5 knots.
during a launch I did not secure the uphaul line while backing out, the line fouled the o/b and I lost power. after scrambling to set an anchor, clearing the prop, and restarting
lenty of fun in a crowded moring area, solo, in high winds with no balast water in the tank yet! I did not want to replace the entire line since the boat was in the water and kept in a slip. I only replaced the uphaul line with a red line and left the original black line for the downhaul. the differant lines make it easy to pull the correct line. I feed them both through the cleat (center) and knotted the ends so they won't pull through. with both lines in the center of the cleat they are very tight and do not need to be tied, I do hitch the up haul because it does tend to extend on longer faster sails. with the downhaul loose it will not prevent the ruddur from lifting on a grounding. The 260 I have (2001) has a tension bolt and leaver to secure the rudder in the down position, this allows the rudder to lift but also allows the rudder to lift slightly while under way in heavy conditions. usually not a big deal to loosen, step on rudder to reset and retighten while underway. The uphaul line also acts a a speed indicator, it starts humming at 5 knots.Get the clamcleat
as advised by Bill; WM has it also. The CL257 cleat only holds 1/4" line, though. Remove the horn cleat when you install the CL257 and then you only have to drill and tap 1 hole. I too had trouble with the rudder uphaul/downhaul for a while. There is a pretty good illustration in the User's Manual. There's no way around it - you have to shove the rudder down with your foot. Once down, bring the downhaul tight into the cleat. Bring the uphaul up tight and tie onto the D-Ring - if you don't it could foul your prop (it will do this on a windy day during a critical docking maneuver). One last thing - make sure the threaded handle that tightens the rudder pivot bolt is facing backwards else you won't be able to turn fully to starboard.
as advised by Bill; WM has it also. The CL257 cleat only holds 1/4" line, though. Remove the horn cleat when you install the CL257 and then you only have to drill and tap 1 hole. I too had trouble with the rudder uphaul/downhaul for a while. There is a pretty good illustration in the User's Manual. There's no way around it - you have to shove the rudder down with your foot. Once down, bring the downhaul tight into the cleat. Bring the uphaul up tight and tie onto the D-Ring - if you don't it could foul your prop (it will do this on a windy day during a critical docking maneuver). One last thing - make sure the threaded handle that tightens the rudder pivot bolt is facing backwards else you won't be able to turn fully to starboard.
240 rudder cleat
I can lower my rudder without stepping on it by raising the tiller way up, pull the downhaul tight and take a wrap on the cleat, lower the tiller, repeat. this way I ratchet the rudder down in about 4 repetitions. I like the idea of the releasing cleat for running aground. Been there, done that ross
I can lower my rudder without stepping on it by raising the tiller way up, pull the downhaul tight and take a wrap on the cleat, lower the tiller, repeat. this way I ratchet the rudder down in about 4 repetitions. I like the idea of the releasing cleat for running aground. Been there, done that ross
new rudder
My winter project ie southern hemisphere. Replacing the swing rudder with a drop rudder. Will have an aluminium rudder box and new rudder (approx 160cm length and 35cm wide). Will be able to adjust depth of rudder in the water. Makes for easier motoring in shallow waters, especially if windy.
My winter project ie southern hemisphere. Replacing the swing rudder with a drop rudder. Will have an aluminium rudder box and new rudder (approx 160cm length and 35cm wide). Will be able to adjust depth of rudder in the water. Makes for easier motoring in shallow waters, especially if windy.
Gary & David - Go for a new Idasailor Rudder!
Some day someone is going to get hurt trying to kick/haul down these original Hunter rudders. I have already heard of outboard motors almost getting ripped of the stern because of the rudder down haul line becoming fouled in the propeller. I also feel kind of silly hanging off the back of my boat trying to kick down my rudder! I got my new replacement rudder for my H260 (they also have them for H240) for about $360 and they are perfect. They sink like a stone. Since I sail in very shallow waters, and my rudder was always kicking up, I replaced my down haul line with an adjustable bungee cord. Forget the Hunter rudders and move on. Good luck, Bob Fliegel
Some day someone is going to get hurt trying to kick/haul down these original Hunter rudders. I have already heard of outboard motors almost getting ripped of the stern because of the rudder down haul line becoming fouled in the propeller. I also feel kind of silly hanging off the back of my boat trying to kick down my rudder! I got my new replacement rudder for my H260 (they also have them for H240) for about $360 and they are perfect. They sink like a stone. Since I sail in very shallow waters, and my rudder was always kicking up, I replaced my down haul line with an adjustable bungee cord. Forget the Hunter rudders and move on. Good luck, Bob Fliegel
Ida Sailor
I just put one on my 1998 H240. I sail out of Little Creek on the Lower Chesapeake. Depth was not a concern for me so I ordered the H260 rudder which is the same length as the orginal H240 rudder. I installed it yesterday. I have yet to sail with it. It's a few pounds lighter and the foil looks more areodynamic. I'll report on the performance at the first Wednesday night race.
I just put one on my 1998 H240. I sail out of Little Creek on the Lower Chesapeake. Depth was not a concern for me so I ordered the H260 rudder which is the same length as the orginal H240 rudder. I installed it yesterday. I have yet to sail with it. It's a few pounds lighter and the foil looks more areodynamic. I'll report on the performance at the first Wednesday night race.
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