Dear all, Trying to figure out where water is coming from to eliminate the problem before winter! I continue to have water seep into the pans where the keel bolts are in the cabin. I completely dried them out again today and studied them over time. When all water is removed and the pans are dried, I notice a trickle of water starts immediately to come in through the stern weep hole in the middle pan. A few seconds later, water starts to seep into the pan in front of it, again from the back weep hole. I guess the third pans fills when 1 & 2 are full. (I didn't hang around to witness this.) Since I put the boat in the water a few weeks ago there has constantly been water in all three pans after I dried them out and returned later. The water is present in all three pans and always settles out just below the floor boards. It never rises any higher! Could the water be leaking up through the seal around the keel and into a void in the belly of the boat? There is NO evidence of water appearing around bolts in the pans but always through the weep holes. Is there a void just below the pans which is filled with water? Is the water rising in the pans to the same height as the water outside the boat and stopping? Never studies Physics, can you tell? No water under anchor well, no water coming in through deck or cockpit, nothing else I could find! My boatyard wants to drop the keel this winter and reseal it. Their estimate for the job is $500-$1000!!!! Please help. Thanks
H 23' Water in pans below floorboards
- Thread starter Joelle Dupont
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Did You Look at the Cockpit Scupper Hose?
Joelle, Did you look at the white corregated hose that connects the cockpit drain (scupper) to the thru hull port of the drain in the stearn? These are notorious for leaks. Even if the hose looks alright, the factory may not have sealed the connection (as in my case!). the hose is self is pretty cheap, ($5.00). This is also the case for the forward anchor locker drain. As for the keel, look at the bolts. Do they seem loose or are they damaged? Chances are that it is probably not the keel. You could try tightening the keel bolts (see if they're loose). Also, You might try just sealing the top bumper-to-deck crack that's between the black bumper and the deck aroun the edge of the boat deck. Let us know if this helps. /Chuck S/V Windsongs '85 H23
Joelle, Did you look at the white corregated hose that connects the cockpit drain (scupper) to the thru hull port of the drain in the stearn? These are notorious for leaks. Even if the hose looks alright, the factory may not have sealed the connection (as in my case!). the hose is self is pretty cheap, ($5.00). This is also the case for the forward anchor locker drain. As for the keel, look at the bolts. Do they seem loose or are they damaged? Chances are that it is probably not the keel. You could try tightening the keel bolts (see if they're loose). Also, You might try just sealing the top bumper-to-deck crack that's between the black bumper and the deck aroun the edge of the boat deck. Let us know if this helps. /Chuck S/V Windsongs '85 H23
Water seeping
I also get a little seepage arount the starboard port. It needs to be replaced and rebedded. A cover over the hatchway stops that. In that case wou would get it even out of the water. John
I also get a little seepage arount the starboard port. It needs to be replaced and rebedded. A cover over the hatchway stops that. In that case wou would get it even out of the water. John
The pan in the sole of the boat
is a formed piece that is glassed into the shell of the hull prior to keel attachment. It has a cavity between it and the hull that always seemed impossible for me to dry out completely. At first I thought it was my keel leaking, but learned from sailors here to taste the water for salt, and found it "fresh" (but in your case this isn't an option). Subsequently I have done extensive work above the waterline to dry things up. During this process I removed my aft bulkhead, exposing the rear part of the sole and found no provision for drainage. From inside the lazerette I drilled a 1/2" hole through the bulkhead and the sole (at the centerline) so that any water underneath will drain when I trailer the boat and tilt it back (remove water before righting trailer). If at this point I was a fresh water sailor and suspected my keel leaking I would reverse the process of seepage; put the boat on the trailer and partially fill it with water, enough to cover the sole, and wait. If it comes in through keel attachment, it should leak out there. An ideal test would to be to leave it on stands or straps so the keel isn't supported (this can be done on the trailer, but jacking the bunks is difficult). After years of obsessing over this same problem; sealing my stanchions, rub rail, ports & through hulls, I ultimately found seepage at my hull/deck joint through the attachment screw holes. I removed the deck from the hull, and found the plywood core material to which they attach rotted away; years of stress and vibration from trailering, sailing storms, running aground, banging against the dock, etc., wallowed out the holes the screws were in and no matter how much sealant I applied I could only keep some of the water out, while keeping some water in at the same time, causing this rot. Look for discoloration on the interior material of the cabin, and for stains down the inside of the hull back in the lazerette. Often many owners will add screws on the rub rail or tigthen the existing ones to the point they slightly compromise or penetrate the interior of this joint, or this area may be compromised slightly by dock damage (it takes the slightest crack). One of these days I'll publish my work with illustrations so you can see what is involved in reworking the hull/deck as I have. I wouldn't recommend taking on the project, especially if I payed someone else. A good boat cover is far cheaper.
is a formed piece that is glassed into the shell of the hull prior to keel attachment. It has a cavity between it and the hull that always seemed impossible for me to dry out completely. At first I thought it was my keel leaking, but learned from sailors here to taste the water for salt, and found it "fresh" (but in your case this isn't an option). Subsequently I have done extensive work above the waterline to dry things up. During this process I removed my aft bulkhead, exposing the rear part of the sole and found no provision for drainage. From inside the lazerette I drilled a 1/2" hole through the bulkhead and the sole (at the centerline) so that any water underneath will drain when I trailer the boat and tilt it back (remove water before righting trailer). If at this point I was a fresh water sailor and suspected my keel leaking I would reverse the process of seepage; put the boat on the trailer and partially fill it with water, enough to cover the sole, and wait. If it comes in through keel attachment, it should leak out there. An ideal test would to be to leave it on stands or straps so the keel isn't supported (this can be done on the trailer, but jacking the bunks is difficult). After years of obsessing over this same problem; sealing my stanchions, rub rail, ports & through hulls, I ultimately found seepage at my hull/deck joint through the attachment screw holes. I removed the deck from the hull, and found the plywood core material to which they attach rotted away; years of stress and vibration from trailering, sailing storms, running aground, banging against the dock, etc., wallowed out the holes the screws were in and no matter how much sealant I applied I could only keep some of the water out, while keeping some water in at the same time, causing this rot. Look for discoloration on the interior material of the cabin, and for stains down the inside of the hull back in the lazerette. Often many owners will add screws on the rub rail or tigthen the existing ones to the point they slightly compromise or penetrate the interior of this joint, or this area may be compromised slightly by dock damage (it takes the slightest crack). One of these days I'll publish my work with illustrations so you can see what is involved in reworking the hull/deck as I have. I wouldn't recommend taking on the project, especially if I payed someone else. A good boat cover is far cheaper.
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