Great Post for Cabin Sole Renewal

  • Thread starter Terrance M. Maloney
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Terrance M. Maloney

I have been disgusted with the appearance of cabin sole since I bought my H28. Understanding this, I am taking the opportunity to do something about it. Through my research I have read many articles all of which have been good, but none have hit home like the one posted by a fellow H28 owner Bruce Grant on HunterOwners.com. His posting in the photo forum inspired me to go down to the boat this weekend, sand down the sole and put a coat of Profin on it. The results so far are night and day I hope to have some pictures of the final results for the forum soon. Check out his posting if you are thinking of renewing your cabin sole this season.
 
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john

has anhyone ever laid a floor other than teak?

I just bought a 1979 27" hunter that has a plain white fiberglass floor. What are my options for a wood floor? Any suggestions?
 
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nick maggio

DALY'S PROFIN

I USED PROFIN ON MY FLOOR and was like night and day I like it so much that I also used it on the table and doors its great looking and its easy keeping it looking good
 
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Miles

Nice post, I just did the same thing...

The only thing I did a little differently is that I removed the sole and took it home to work on (this is on a 340). I found ProFin very easy to work with compared to other products and it does give nice results. Removing the sole wasn't hard at all and it did let me clean out some pretty scary looking gunk that had accumulated under it and in the cracks next to the fiberglass. I had quite a bit of ProFin left over so I put a coat on the underside of the sole which was originally unfinished hoping it would help preserve the wood. It looks so good now that I hate to walk on it, the first person to come aboard with sand on their shoes will be made to walk the plank!
 
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Chris Haake

Pergo floor?

John, Maybe a laminate wood floor? I have laminate flooring on a cement basement surface and it has worked out great (both sides laminated). Installation is a thick barrier layer of plastic, 1/4 inch dense foam, and the laminate wood on top. It is resistant to mold and requires no glue. Could be an inexpensive and durable solution. I saw pictures of this on a Macgregor 26 at: www.macgregor-boats.com/cassel/cassel.html under "Bob Cassel mods". (I couldn't get the link to work).
 
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Royce

Pergo?

Pergo is guaranteed for everthing expect WATER! It's a press board in the middle and will come apart in exposure to water.
 
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Terrance M. Maloney

Refresed Cabin Sole Picture

Here is a picture of what a 1/4 quart of Profin, some sand paper and a bit of hard work can no for a tired sole.
 
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Terrance M. Maloney

Picture

Here is the picture that did not post the last time...
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Laminated Flooring.

I would have to agree that Pergo and some of these types of floors may not be a good alternative choice for a sailboat. Our neighbors had a leak under their sink in the kitchen and the floor needed to be replaced. BUT, if you look at the Bavaria's that is what they are using. It would be interesting to know what product they use.
 
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Mike

I used laminate in a Pearson 35 '78

My last boat was a Pearson 35. It has a plastic sole. So I installed a laminate, click together floor. It was easy, after making a template and it was impervious to water, being sealed on all sides. I did paint polyurathane on any edge I cut. Nice feature. Easy to remove, replace, repair. and cheap. folks complemented the look. not as nice as teak but definitely functional.
 
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Michael O'

Photo explanation

Terrance: Your photos show a great progression of color and quality. What did you do besides add another application of Profin for the 2nd,3rd, 4th photo? Did you have to sand more than one time?
 
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Rick Webb

Just Saw at Lowes Today

Linolem that looks like wood. Not sure what to think about it but it sure would be easy.
 
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Terrance M. Maloney

Michael...

There are a total of 5 coats of Profin down. The floor was in pretty bad shape, so I started with some aggressive sandpaper (60) and my palm sander. This may have been too much. 100 would have been better, but it got the job done and I did not go through the veneer. I then brushed on a coat of Profin and wiped it off after 10 min, as the directions instruct you. From there I let it dry and came back the next day and sanded it with a 180 grit sanding pad. I repeated this process for the next 3 coats. The final coat I did not wipe off. I have to tell you it looks 1000 times better than it did, as the photos show. In fact, it looks even better in person. It used to bother me how bad the sole looked. My interior otherwise is in great shape and I have had the cushions redone, so this just finishes it off. I was going to originally just replace the floor, but I had already bought the Profin early last year, so I figured I’d give it a shot to see how it worked. Because the floor looked so bad, I was not too concerned about damaging it in the process. Now I am glad I gave it a try, because it looks perfect and because it is not “brand new” it is in character with the rest of the interior. Which, by the way has Seafin on it and looks again 1000 times better than when I purchase the boat. Highly recommend giving this project a shot if you are considering.
 
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Michael O'

Profin Amateur

You've inspired me to give my cabin sole the "Pro" treatment this spring! If it wasn't such a hassle, I'd remove the floor panels and to this at home during this wretchedly cold winter.
 
Jul 1, 1998
3,062
Hunter Legend 35 Poulsbo/Semiahmoo WA
Sole Removal Not That Bad

Sole removal is not that bad - just take it easy. The sections are held in place with sealant and all it takes is some gentel but persistent pressure. I used several pry tools, from trim removal pry bar to flat blade screwdrivers to a small crowbar and sliped them into the crack between the floor pan and the sole. Some persistent pressure separates the sole from the sealant. Take all the pieces home for sanding - but take it easy. Too much sanding can not only cause penetration through the veneer but also will cause ripples in the finish due to the grain in the wood. Less sanding (in my opinion) is better. Just put more coats on to fill in the scratches. I used varnish and dried the pieces in a vertical position to help lessen the dust sticking to the finish. Good winter/spring project!
 
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