Gray Portlights Installation Tips

[Bob Pullen HC-33 1981]

We have found some water infiltration directly below a Gray portlight (above the pilot bunk on our H-33 1981), and have opted to remove the portlight, since we have a new spare. Has anyone replaced a Gray portlight, and possibly scooped out the waterlogged swollen plyboard in the vertical area below the portlight? Any suggestions, pictures, etc, will be greatly appreciated.
I have seen plenty on removing these portlights, replacement with New Found Metal's product, etc., but I am hoping to find anyone who has worked on installing one of the Gray portlights.
I'm sure upgrading to the NFM's portlight would be more desirable, but this is what we are lucky enough to have onboard, so our choice is made for us. Curious if Sikaflex 295 UV might be better to use than 4200/5200?
Many thanks
Bob
S/V Seanorita
Yucatan

 

[Stu Jackson]

Bob, most of those generation of portlights are actually quite good, and the replacement parts are available, as compared to some Lewamrs I've heard about. My Gray portlight in one of our compartments has a leaking seal, which can be replaced and will work like new for many years to come. All I have to do is measure the port and find the part. Go for it.

 

[Merlin Clark]

I wouldn't use a marine adhesive to bed portlights. It's not necessary to glue these in since the fasteners hold the port in place; and for another, it makes future removal an incredible PITA.
I removed 2 Fisher ports on my GS that were bedded with 5200 and they came out in pieces by way of a recip saw. They were in bad shape so I was replacing and not rebedding so I was lucky.

 

[Larry D West]

Bob I removed all my ports and rebed them in silicone which was about 5 years ago have not had in problems . I also made new ring from brass and through bolted my ports. I will give you a call later today .

 

[Stu Jackson]

Rant time: 5200 has NO place on a boat except for the hull to deck joint. They shouldn't sell this stuff to boaters. It's a glue, not a sealant. Use a sealant, not a glue.

Rant over.

I usually do this rant every two months or so whenever the 5200 cr*p comes up,. as it normally does.

 

[Bob Pullen HC-33 1981]

Hey Larry
BINGO!! that is exactly the direction I'm thinking...got a great place on the outskirts of Cancun which will make me new outter rings from stainless -- I feel the thru-bolting option is desirable...perhaps a layer of 1/8 hi-density pvc sheet under it, on the outside, for flexibility and to keep the stainless ring from cracking the outter skin of the cabin?
If it works I will go ahead and pull everyone of them and reseal/rebed?
many thanks to all for your advice
hope to talk with you soon Larry
thanks again to this website's keepers for a great resource
Bob

 

[sandpiper10471]

Stu - I hear you on the 5200 and totally agree. So what would you use to bed the portlights?

 

[Bob Pullen HC-33 1981]

Hey Stu,
yes, I understand the reluctance to use 5200, specifically in this case
would you say Sikaflex 291 UV would be a better choice?
I would rather stay away from the butyl tape for now.
many thanks
Bob

 

[Larry D West]

Bob went by the marine this afternoon, missed you give me a call and we will look at your ports if tomorrow if you would like posted my # on your private message.

 

[Stu Jackson]

I've been using silicone on my Becksons for years. Others love different material. I'll switch to butyl for my stanchions, chainplates and other stuff next time around.

 

[Stephen Trapani]

Rant time: 5200 has NO place on a boat except for the hull to deck joint. They shouldn't sell this stuff to boaters. It's a glue, not a sealant. Use a sealant, not a glue.

Rant over.

I usually do this rant every two months or so whenever the 5200 cr*p comes up,. as it normally does.

I disagree for two reasons.

First, it's not really that tough to get off with the right tools. For example a grinder or dremel with a stiff wire brush wheel will take it off pretty quickly. I just took off my strut that was bedded with 5200 and it took me about fifteen minutes to clean out all the 5200 with a dremel. With the tools available today it's silly to make a below the water seal weaker because you're afraid of getting it out. If you make the job last thirty years, that's a good thing, not a bad thing!

Second, below the waterline if you can find a glue/sealant that will be the last thing to fail on the fitting you're putting in, by all means use it. You're saving lives and making seals longer lasting. It's seems crazy to purposely make it weaker.

I am currently replacing my shaft log. It was nice to just bang off the old one with a hammer once I took off the bolts. That sure won't happen when I put 5200 on the new one. I can see the temptation. But I'll probably be dead by the time the 5200 and shaft log fails. By then the 5200 will have weakened some and worse comes to worse, cut the stuck shaft log out with a grinder. A two hour job is the price for a lot more security under the water? Small price to pay.

 

[rickbarr]

New to the site, but on the same project. Currently restoreing 10 aluminium portlights from my Alberg. Project includes replaceing glass (1/4 " lexan ). Purchased butyl to bed the frames to the hull, still wondering what sealent to use to bed the glass in the frames ? 5200 seems to be the all around suggestion but in restoring the frames the hours spent on the grinder were mostly concentrated on trying to remove the old 5200 witch had turned rock hard and brittle.. Is there another sealent witch will keep it's elasticity and still have bonding over the years.. Guess I'm looking out for the next guy who has to do this project. P.S. If your looking for gaskits for your opening ports Mc Master Carr carries EPDM foam cord in a variety of diameters and it fits square channels. 50 ft will run ye about $47 with shipping.