I would like to take the grab rail off the coach top. I can see brass screws (I think) but these appear not to have heads on them. If anyone has taken the rail off would you please let me know how this should be done.
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H33 handrail
Rail is screwed down with bronze screws into plywood in the core. Bung (plug over screw head) can usually be gotten out without damage with care. Sand any finish off the bung to keep the rail teak from breaking out with the bung, drill a pilot hole in the middle of the bung, and then screw in a wood screw whose point has been filed off. The screw will go down to the bronze screw and then, bottoming on that, lift the bung out. Any remnants can be gotten out with a sharp wood chisel or knife. Helps a lot in getting the bronze screws out to use a phillips head (#2?) that just fits the screw and then seat the screwdriver with a hammer tap before trying to back the screw out. Once the screwdriver slips a time or two in those soft bronze screws, its trouble. Why would you want to remove these rails? On my boat nobody goes forward without using them. They certainly add security in a seaway. I believe David Underwood of this site has replaced his with stainless but you need some kind of handhold just where the factory put the teak handrail.
Rail is screwed down with bronze screws into plywood in the core. Bung (plug over screw head) can usually be gotten out without damage with care. Sand any finish off the bung to keep the rail teak from breaking out with the bung, drill a pilot hole in the middle of the bung, and then screw in a wood screw whose point has been filed off. The screw will go down to the bronze screw and then, bottoming on that, lift the bung out. Any remnants can be gotten out with a sharp wood chisel or knife. Helps a lot in getting the bronze screws out to use a phillips head (#2?) that just fits the screw and then seat the screwdriver with a hammer tap before trying to back the screw out. Once the screwdriver slips a time or two in those soft bronze screws, its trouble. Why would you want to remove these rails? On my boat nobody goes forward without using them. They certainly add security in a seaway. I believe David Underwood of this site has replaced his with stainless but you need some kind of handhold just where the factory put the teak handrail.
Need those rails.
I agree with Terry, keep or replace the handrails. If elminating teak work and you can afford it then stainless is the way to go. I replaced mine with plastic teak. Not the best solution if you are restoring to bristol condition. But safe and absolutely maintenance free. To prevent water intrusion into the core you can epoxy 1/2" x 2" dowels where the screws go in. If using stainless you will be bolting through the headliner.
I agree with Terry, keep or replace the handrails. If elminating teak work and you can afford it then stainless is the way to go. I replaced mine with plastic teak. Not the best solution if you are restoring to bristol condition. But safe and absolutely maintenance free. To prevent water intrusion into the core you can epoxy 1/2" x 2" dowels where the screws go in. If using stainless you will be bolting through the headliner.
They may not be standard phillips head bronze
screws. A lot of boats of that era used Frearson screws which look a lot like phillips head screws. You might want to invest in a Frearson screwdriver (Jamestown Marine Supply)if you plan on undoing more than the grabrails. And, yeah, I found that out the hard way! Stripped the heads of several until I was told about the Frearson screws and screwdriver. Once I had the correct tool they all came out normally.
screws. A lot of boats of that era used Frearson screws which look a lot like phillips head screws. You might want to invest in a Frearson screwdriver (Jamestown Marine Supply)if you plan on undoing more than the grabrails. And, yeah, I found that out the hard way! Stripped the heads of several until I was told about the Frearson screws and screwdriver. Once I had the correct tool they all came out normally.
H33 scrrews
I have removed and replaced a good percentage of all the wood screw fasteners on my 79 H33. They are all phillips head bronze screws, soft, as all silicon bronze screws are. Use the right size phillips head driver and seat it well by tapping before turning. Particularly if the screws have been accessed since manufacture, there may be glue or even epoxy in the phillips recess which makes it more important to make sure that the driver is well seated before trying to remove.
I have removed and replaced a good percentage of all the wood screw fasteners on my 79 H33. They are all phillips head bronze screws, soft, as all silicon bronze screws are. Use the right size phillips head driver and seat it well by tapping before turning. Particularly if the screws have been accessed since manufacture, there may be glue or even epoxy in the phillips recess which makes it more important to make sure that the driver is well seated before trying to remove.
Jim Logan
Jim, through no clairovoyance of mine bay horse has been in the Tennessee River and thus absent from the Panhandle since last August, missing Ivan and now Dennis.
Jim, through no clairovoyance of mine bay horse has been in the Tennessee River and thus absent from the Panhandle since last August, missing Ivan and now Dennis.
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