Gooseneck Position on Mast Oday 192

pfschmid · Jul 7, 2013

All you need to do is put the sliding sail slug stop into the mast slot above the opening after you have your sail slugs in, and you tighten the knurled knob on it to keep it in place and prevent the sail slugs from coming out when you lower your mainsail. Your goose neck should be low enough to keep your mainsail halyard from jamming in the masthead sheave. There should be a cleat installed in the mast below the goose neck, (it also slides when the screws are loosened), and set to the proper height for the goose neck. Your downhaul line from the bottom of the goose neck is then secured to the cleat to keep it from raising up and out of the opening while sailing.

Brian S · Jul 7, 2013

Vrotate, that opening is where you insert the slugs for the main sail. They need to be pushed up above the opening, and then secured the with sail stop, as Pete says above.

The gooseneck should be inserted (before the sail slugs, of course) and allowed to slide down below the opening.

Not only should the downhaul be used to hold the gooseneck from rising up into the slot opening, but it should be used in higher winds to tighten the luff the of the mainsail, and to move the point of maximum draft forwards to lessen weather helm.

You could make your life easier by installing a Mast Gate (www.mastgates.com) and a TrackStop quick release from the same site. The Mast Gate is a plate that closes off the slot opening once you've got your slugs in place. This is cool because it allows the sail to slide down further to the boom for your sail cover. Also, it prevents you accidentally loosening and dropping your sail stop overboard. (I said I wouldn't, and promptly did so on the second sail of the season. Doh!) The Track Stop goes below the gooseneck, and allows you to easily prevent the gooseneck from dropping all the way down to the downhaul cleat when you douse the main. It works well with a topping lift to keep the boom high for when you aren't actively sailing.

Always use your downhaul to tension the luff of the main. Because the gooseneck is moveable, you will not be able to sweat the main halyard to tighten the luff - you would hoist the main all the way to the top, and the headboard would catch on the backstay.

If you had a fixed position gooseneck, you would need to sweat the halyard (wrap half-way around the cleat, push forward on the halyard as it goes up the mast to tension the sail, then pull the slack out at the cleat - several times in a row) and then use a Cunningham to control the draft after that.

Hope this helps,
Brian

Brian S · Jul 17, 2013

Vrotate, I would say you are missing a sail stop. You can pick one up on the interwebs for roughly $10. It will make your life easier to have both a sail stop and your existing gooseneck stop. It would make your life even easier to get a Mastgate from Tom Luque. He just did one for my Dwyer mast back in May. We decided I had a Dwyer DM-375 mast section with a 3/16" slot, which would be an A2 profile. His website incorrectly listed the 192 as an A1 profile (unless he's changed it since...) I don't know which profile for a Z-Spars mast.

You can get sail stops on the chandlery here at this site. I believe you'd want item: S-04899 shown here: http://shop.odayowners.com/prod.php?14731

I suppose I should order one or two to have on hand, just in case. Or if someone I know loses one...

Brian

Brian S · Jul 18, 2013

I don't think the wire luff furler makes for a good reef. There's a reason you want some kind of furler foil to wind the sail around. You need to roll the foot and leech evenly, and that never happened with mine. I used mine for a few weeks after I got the boat, but I could never keep the luff tight. Too much sag. I suppose that would have been improved after I ditched the old, worn, polyester double braid halyard with vectran, but I haven't put the Schaefer back on since the hank on jib is newer than the wire luff jib. My Schaefer doesn't have any hooks, not entirely sure what that is.

My personal plans are to sail the boat with the hank on jib and a deck back for it, and in a few years upgrade to a 135% genoa with Schaefer Snap Furl reefing furler...

Brian

jfschena · Mar 25, 2014

I'm glad I found this thread. I ve been considering installing another winch on the cabin top of out oday 26 to raise the main that last couple of inches to tighten the luff. The boat doesn't have a down haul. It seems to me it would be much easier to install that rather than a winch. Not to mention I would have to reposition the halyard to the other side of the cabin top rail.

Right now the goose neck is somehow fixed. I'm also installing a garhauer vang. It came with the boat uninstalled. I think that vang and the down haul should work together.

Could someone post a picture--if you have one-- of their down haul/Cunningham installation?

Great thread. Thanks

Joe

Brian S · Mar 26, 2014

jfschena said:
I'm glad I found this thread. I ve been considering installing another winch on the cabin top of out oday 26 to raise the main that last couple of inches to tighten the luff. The boat doesn't have a down haul. It seems to me it would be much easier to install that rather than a winch. Not to mention I would have to reposition the halyard to the other side of the cabin top rail. Right now the goose neck is somehow fixed. I'm also installing a garhauer vang. It came with the boat uninstalled. I think that vang and the down haul should work together. Could someone post a picture--if you have one-- of their down haul/Cunningham installation? Great thread. Thanks Joe

Joe, I would take a hard look at the top of your mast to see why the sail doesn't hoist. Just to be sure there's no kink, bend, rough spot in the slot. If there are two holes on the headboard, use the one closest to the luff. Also, when you get the sail at full hoist by hand, it's time to "sweat" the halyard. Usually, take a half a turn around the cleat, then reach up an pull the halyard towards you, without allowing the line to slip and slacken on the cleat, then, let go of the halyard and pull the slack out around the cleat. You'll have to do this several times to properly stretch the bolt rope and tension the luff. Make sure the vang, main sheet, and leech line are fully free and loose when hoisting, or a too tight leech will never allow a properly tensioned luff. This is how it's done for a fixed position gooseneck.

For the Cunningham, there should be a grommet set in the luff of the sail, about 6" above the tack crinkle that gets fixed in the boom end. A hook would go in this Cunningham grommet, and use probably a 3:1 purchase down the mast. My 192 has a bail bolted through the mast, and a horn cleat set in the slot. There's a block on the bail, and a block on the bottom of the gooseneck, I think with a becket. For you, I believe they make hooks attached to blocks with beckets. You'd have to figure where to mount the bottom of a purchase below the gooseneck near your mast base. You might even be able to use a Harken H244 fiddle with v-jam so you don't have to worry about where to mount a cleat. One of my dinghies had the Cunningham hook tied to the top block with a length of line. That seems good, purchase stays below the boom. The Harken hook mounted to block I saw would be too small for you. Good on a Laser probably.

Sorry, I don't have any pics of my rig to show you, though mine is different due to the sliding gooseneck. My biggest problem is to not hoist the main so high that my headboard hangs up on the backstay..

jfschena · Apr 18, 2014

I finally got out to the boat. Here is a picture of what I have. I would need to move the "ring" in the slot up to accommodate the new vang. I figure I could attach to this ring, go up the port side, through the grommet and down to the cleat.

My boom goose neck is fixed with rivets.

Brian S · Apr 18, 2014

I might rig it this way: Tie a hook to a length of line, led down to a single block with becket. Tie the hook line to the shackle of the single/becket. Affix a single block to that ring at the base of your mast. Tie the working line to the becket, down to single, up through sheave, and then down to… An alloy clam cleat mounted in the slot somewhere above the single at the base, using slug slides http://www.apsltd.com/c-968-slug-slides.aspx I would tie all the lines using buntline hitches. I should think you'd be able to make the hook line such that the single/becket is just below the gooseneck, and still have plenty of travel to activate the purchase. You could also probably move that ring up, as it may be held with slug slides. My downhaul uses a horn cleat set in the slot with slug slides. I expect some time soon, I will replace that horn cleat with a clam cleat, it'll just make life easier, especially since I'm just using polyester double braid for the line, not some fancy single braid Dyneema… I also think I would use a C211mk1 alloy cleat: http://www.apsltd.com/c-1031-clamcleats-fairleadcleats.aspx because I think the fairlead might make it easier to pull down, 'cos you could pull out at the same time? The other alternative would be a C254 http://www.apsltd.com/c-1023-clamcleats-open.aspx I can't imagine you'd use larger than a 1/4" line for your Cunningham…

Does any of this make sense?

jfschena · Apr 19, 2014

I think so. Said another way, a hook goes in the grommet. To this is a line that goes down to the becket, below the mast. Another line ties on the other end of the becket, leads down to a block hooked in the ring at the base of the mast. After passing through this block, then back up to the sheave in the becket then back down to a cam cleat back near the base. When I get back home, I'll re-read you email and draw it out.

Thanks for your help. Joe