This Spring my old Atomic 4 died of internal corrosion that was causing water to enter the cylinders. After spending several months waiting to find out that the damage was terminal and another month waiting for an estimate for a reputable local marina to install a new diesel engine I have decided to go for an outboard, at least for the next year. My reasons are as follows: 1. Cost. The new diesel properly installed will be $14K. Even once it is installed I will need professional help to keep it properly maintained. Since my boat is on a mooring this will entail bringing the boat to the mechanic etc. 2. Convenience. In the ten years that I have owned my Pearson 30 I have grown to love its sailing qualities and hate the engine compartment. It is too crowded to have any fun down there! Even with the new diesel that engine compartment will still not be a fun place to work. 3. Suitability to my use of the boat. I like to go daysailing one day every weekend. Sometimes I skip a week. We rarely overnight or go anywhere. In my opinion the diesel will be prepared to take me to Florida and back several times over but I am not going anywhere for now and might want a larger (not a better sailing) boat when the time comes to take a real cruise. Sorry for my longwinded introduction - my only concern is that I am not seeing a lot of Pearson 30s using outboards. Does anyone have any experience doing this with the Pearson or a similar boat? My thinking is that since the J-29s and the Capri 30s seem to survive with the outboard I should be good with a strong backet and sometype of 9.9 or 15 hp motor, preferably a light weight 4 stroke (oxymoron?) or an oil injected 2 stroke so that I can draw fuel from the Pearson's 20 gallon internal fuel tank. And preferably a 25" shaft. Does anybody have any thoughts on this? Thanks! Chris
Going Outboard
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Don Smith
Engine Observations
Hi Chris, I've had four previous sailboats.A 20' daysailer with no motor, C&C27s and a J-30s with inboards and a C&C25 with an outboard. Essentially I've tried all the options. In my opinion an outboard is a poor choice. It won't or will only marginally charge your battery (ies). It is a pain to raise/lower when you wish to use it. If you need it in a hurry it isn't available. The C&C25 came with a Johnson outboard. I replaced it with a 10HP Honda. Having tried both 2 and 4 cycle outboards I don't think you'll like either. I also think you've gone a bit overboard in your cost estimate of a new diesel in your P-30. As an option, how about replacing your current Anemic 4 with a rebuilt one. I've had both gas and diesel inboards in my past boats and actually I find many advantages in having gas. Regards, Don Smith
Hi Chris, I've had four previous sailboats.A 20' daysailer with no motor, C&C27s and a J-30s with inboards and a C&C25 with an outboard. Essentially I've tried all the options. In my opinion an outboard is a poor choice. It won't or will only marginally charge your battery (ies). It is a pain to raise/lower when you wish to use it. If you need it in a hurry it isn't available. The C&C25 came with a Johnson outboard. I replaced it with a 10HP Honda. Having tried both 2 and 4 cycle outboards I don't think you'll like either. I also think you've gone a bit overboard in your cost estimate of a new diesel in your P-30. As an option, how about replacing your current Anemic 4 with a rebuilt one. I've had both gas and diesel inboards in my past boats and actually I find many advantages in having gas. Regards, Don Smith
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Mark
interesting link
looks nice, but the opening page seems to imply that it has a folding prop, can't quite figure how a floder will assist in recharging batteries though. I'm also looking into repowering my boat, and have looked into electric drive but haven't found anyone who has run one for any length of time, but most seem to require a large battery bank, which is counterproductive as I want to increase available space. Ken.
looks nice, but the opening page seems to imply that it has a folding prop, can't quite figure how a floder will assist in recharging batteries though. I'm also looking into repowering my boat, and have looked into electric drive but haven't found anyone who has run one for any length of time, but most seem to require a large battery bank, which is counterproductive as I want to increase available space. Ken.
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Chris
further outboard explanations
Don - Thanks for your reply. Actually, the $14K quote on the diesel comes from a very reliable source and is competitive for properly installing a good new 3 cylinder engine - it could be less if you wanted to leave the old exhaust or propeller etc. but that is what is costs to have a real professional job done. Your point about the inboard being more readily available than the outboard is well taken - however if we are talking about the atomic 4 we are talking about a. turning on the battery b. running the ventilator for 5 minutes and c. lifting the stairs and opening the seacock -- all before starting the engine so I am not sure that the outboard would be that much slower to get into operation. Ultimately I am trying to simplify my life - I don't want to be working on an engine that I hardly use - I just want an appliance that will get me home at the end of the day. And not require me to track down someone to work on it. Thanks! Chris
Don - Thanks for your reply. Actually, the $14K quote on the diesel comes from a very reliable source and is competitive for properly installing a good new 3 cylinder engine - it could be less if you wanted to leave the old exhaust or propeller etc. but that is what is costs to have a real professional job done. Your point about the inboard being more readily available than the outboard is well taken - however if we are talking about the atomic 4 we are talking about a. turning on the battery b. running the ventilator for 5 minutes and c. lifting the stairs and opening the seacock -- all before starting the engine so I am not sure that the outboard would be that much slower to get into operation. Ultimately I am trying to simplify my life - I don't want to be working on an engine that I hardly use - I just want an appliance that will get me home at the end of the day. And not require me to track down someone to work on it. Thanks! Chris
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Chris
Electric option explored/exploring
Mark - I have actually gotten a quote from ELCO and had looked at some more prosaic homemade electric kits. I LOVE the idea of having an electric engine in the bowels of the boat and then having the flexibility to buy a diesel generator on ebay to power the thing when I run out of batteries. The problems that I have run into so far have been - cost - the engine/controller packs cost around $4000/$5000 and then you have installation and the cost of the batteries and the generators. Not sure why the engine/controller is so expensive. The electric option may be where I ultimately end up and when I compare the cost to the full-blown $14K diesel option it looks even better. I will probably ask these guys for a quote. Thanks! Chris
Mark - I have actually gotten a quote from ELCO and had looked at some more prosaic homemade electric kits. I LOVE the idea of having an electric engine in the bowels of the boat and then having the flexibility to buy a diesel generator on ebay to power the thing when I run out of batteries. The problems that I have run into so far have been - cost - the engine/controller packs cost around $4000/$5000 and then you have installation and the cost of the batteries and the generators. Not sure why the engine/controller is so expensive. The electric option may be where I ultimately end up and when I compare the cost to the full-blown $14K diesel option it looks even better. I will probably ask these guys for a quote. Thanks! Chris
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Bob Fox
Repowering
I read Don Smiths comment about repowering with an outboard. I dont mean to argumentitive here but Don isnt coming up with the $14000 for the new diesel. Around where I come from thats a conservative to fair estimate not low. Thes3 boat yard never tell you what it really costs. They work by the hour. about $75 per at my last enquiry. They dont move fast and theres always extra bed work, fitting work, alignment work additional accessories, materials, wiring ect. Your kind of between a rock and a hard place I know its hard to justify spending 14K on a boat that is worth less than that and probably wont be worth much more with the new engine. On the other hand it you like the boat and its in reasonably good shape best choice is probably to bite the bullet. ON the other hand If you dont cruise much a 15HP long shaft will probably move the boat at 5knts when needed. Asthetically its gonna look like hell and bounce the prop out of the water in a chop but it will do what you need today and wont cost any where near 14K. The choice is yours GL Bob Fox P26w #76 whitecap
I read Don Smiths comment about repowering with an outboard. I dont mean to argumentitive here but Don isnt coming up with the $14000 for the new diesel. Around where I come from thats a conservative to fair estimate not low. Thes3 boat yard never tell you what it really costs. They work by the hour. about $75 per at my last enquiry. They dont move fast and theres always extra bed work, fitting work, alignment work additional accessories, materials, wiring ect. Your kind of between a rock and a hard place I know its hard to justify spending 14K on a boat that is worth less than that and probably wont be worth much more with the new engine. On the other hand it you like the boat and its in reasonably good shape best choice is probably to bite the bullet. ON the other hand If you dont cruise much a 15HP long shaft will probably move the boat at 5knts when needed. Asthetically its gonna look like hell and bounce the prop out of the water in a chop but it will do what you need today and wont cost any where near 14K. The choice is yours GL Bob Fox P26w #76 whitecap
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Mark
repower
Hey Ken, Looks like you just put the shift lever in forward to open the blades then shift to "charge". From the OZ web site: Sailing and Charging procedures When sailing and the batteries need charging the following procedures should be carried out: 1. The lever is put in ‘Normal’ position forward. The motor begins to turn and the propeller unfold. 2. The lever is now put in ‘Charge’ position. Now the propeller turns under water pressure and is held out by centrifugal force. If the speed of the boat is over 4 knots charging begins automatically. The motor is now a efficient generator that supplies power to batteries for use in the future or to ancillaries such as autopilot, lights or water maker. During charging the braking forces on the boat range between 0.05 – 0.5 knots depending on the circumstances. The propeller drag and charging performance can be adjusted. Charging is even possible in during tacking. At low speed the charging is disconnected automatically and when speed is regained the charging is smoothly engaged. Thus the performance of the boat is disturbed as little as possible. 3. When the maximum charge of 14.4 volts is achieved the charge rate is automatically regulated so that the batteries are not overcharged and the charging indicator begins to flash. 4. When full power forward or reverse is required during charging the gear lever is shifted to ‘High’ in either forward or reverse positions. And within one respectively four seconds full power is achieved! To return to charging simply place the lever in ‘Charge’ position again. 5. Charging is ended by shifting the lever into ‘Neutral’. The propeller is braked and falls back into the folded position.
Hey Ken, Looks like you just put the shift lever in forward to open the blades then shift to "charge". From the OZ web site: Sailing and Charging procedures When sailing and the batteries need charging the following procedures should be carried out: 1. The lever is put in ‘Normal’ position forward. The motor begins to turn and the propeller unfold. 2. The lever is now put in ‘Charge’ position. Now the propeller turns under water pressure and is held out by centrifugal force. If the speed of the boat is over 4 knots charging begins automatically. The motor is now a efficient generator that supplies power to batteries for use in the future or to ancillaries such as autopilot, lights or water maker. During charging the braking forces on the boat range between 0.05 – 0.5 knots depending on the circumstances. The propeller drag and charging performance can be adjusted. Charging is even possible in during tacking. At low speed the charging is disconnected automatically and when speed is regained the charging is smoothly engaged. Thus the performance of the boat is disturbed as little as possible. 3. When the maximum charge of 14.4 volts is achieved the charge rate is automatically regulated so that the batteries are not overcharged and the charging indicator begins to flash. 4. When full power forward or reverse is required during charging the gear lever is shifted to ‘High’ in either forward or reverse positions. And within one respectively four seconds full power is achieved! To return to charging simply place the lever in ‘Charge’ position again. 5. Charging is ended by shifting the lever into ‘Neutral’. The propeller is braked and falls back into the folded position.
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Al M
Just musing but
I hope you don't mind my $.02 but the thought comes to mind of simply replacing the A4 with a rebuilt or exchange one from say Moyermarine who has a pretty good reputation from what I've heard. I have no personal knowledge or relationship with them but your decision would seem to be price driven and replacing your existing power plant with a like kind may cost out at or near that of an outboard and I would think perhaps have a better impact on the resale value of the whole boat. Certainly the performance would be better, espescially in snotty weather, than an outboard. You would also avoid the associated costs of retrofitting things to accomadate a deisel or an electric motor (and the batteries and cabling). Simply unbolt and replace the existing unit. Keep the same prop, shaft, and reduction gear and transmission, wiring etc. etc. If you're on a mooring I'm not sure that a electric would be the best option given your usage, given acceptance rates and such. Hope this helped, Al
I hope you don't mind my $.02 but the thought comes to mind of simply replacing the A4 with a rebuilt or exchange one from say Moyermarine who has a pretty good reputation from what I've heard. I have no personal knowledge or relationship with them but your decision would seem to be price driven and replacing your existing power plant with a like kind may cost out at or near that of an outboard and I would think perhaps have a better impact on the resale value of the whole boat. Certainly the performance would be better, espescially in snotty weather, than an outboard. You would also avoid the associated costs of retrofitting things to accomadate a deisel or an electric motor (and the batteries and cabling). Simply unbolt and replace the existing unit. Keep the same prop, shaft, and reduction gear and transmission, wiring etc. etc. If you're on a mooring I'm not sure that a electric would be the best option given your usage, given acceptance rates and such. Hope this helped, Al
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Chris
Here comes reality
Al - I think you make a good point - my only real concern about the rebuilt A4 is that the core will be weak - due to years of corrosion in salt water similar to what happened to my engine. Do you think that is a valid concern? I should hold my nose on future resale value and just get the boat back to how it was originally designed. As a follow up on the electric - I am finding that an appropriate diesel generator would be about 6KW and water cooled - the cost looks to be around $4 - $5K minimum. I LOVE the concept of the electric but it still seems to be about 5 years out as an accessible option for A4 replacement. Chris
Al - I think you make a good point - my only real concern about the rebuilt A4 is that the core will be weak - due to years of corrosion in salt water similar to what happened to my engine. Do you think that is a valid concern? I should hold my nose on future resale value and just get the boat back to how it was originally designed. As a follow up on the electric - I am finding that an appropriate diesel generator would be about 6KW and water cooled - the cost looks to be around $4 - $5K minimum. I LOVE the concept of the electric but it still seems to be about 5 years out as an accessible option for A4 replacement. Chris
outboard p30
Chris, Lat summer my wife and I had a similar issue with the engine in our 1972 Pearson 30. I also recieved estimates in the 12-14 range for diesel replacement of the Palmer 28 hp gas inboard. Rebuilding the gas inboard was also more expense than we wanted at that time. Our marina owner told me that the transom of the P30 is not made for a transom mount, as it is too thin to hold a bracket. I constructed an over the top of the transom bracket from lumber and 3 quarter inch galvanized pipe from home depot. The weight of the engine (used 2001 Mercury 15hp 20 inch shaft 2-stroke) is supported by the top of the transon which is very thick. The engine is mounted on an adjustable outboard (push to lower, pull to raise) 11 inch throw bracket from west marine. The pipe bracket which goes over the transon is u-shaped (much like an overboard ladder bracket and all is bolted into place on the boat. The outboard motor bracket is completely vertical and the lower part rests against a precut board roughly shaped to the transom and supported by boards within the transon. During sailing the motor is raised and tilted out of the water. I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but we wanted to be able to sail without going to the poor house. If you like I can send you pictures and additional information. PS if i were to do anything differently, i would definitely have bought a 25 inch shaft motor, but i could not find a used one locally at the time. This one works very well but in very rough water the prop tends to come partially out of the water. in all other situations it works fine and pushes the boat at 6.5 mph tops. Hope this is helpful, Duke
Chris, Lat summer my wife and I had a similar issue with the engine in our 1972 Pearson 30. I also recieved estimates in the 12-14 range for diesel replacement of the Palmer 28 hp gas inboard. Rebuilding the gas inboard was also more expense than we wanted at that time. Our marina owner told me that the transom of the P30 is not made for a transom mount, as it is too thin to hold a bracket. I constructed an over the top of the transom bracket from lumber and 3 quarter inch galvanized pipe from home depot. The weight of the engine (used 2001 Mercury 15hp 20 inch shaft 2-stroke) is supported by the top of the transon which is very thick. The engine is mounted on an adjustable outboard (push to lower, pull to raise) 11 inch throw bracket from west marine. The pipe bracket which goes over the transon is u-shaped (much like an overboard ladder bracket and all is bolted into place on the boat. The outboard motor bracket is completely vertical and the lower part rests against a precut board roughly shaped to the transom and supported by boards within the transon. During sailing the motor is raised and tilted out of the water. I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but we wanted to be able to sail without going to the poor house. If you like I can send you pictures and additional information. PS if i were to do anything differently, i would definitely have bought a 25 inch shaft motor, but i could not find a used one locally at the time. This one works very well but in very rough water the prop tends to come partially out of the water. in all other situations it works fine and pushes the boat at 6.5 mph tops. Hope this is helpful, Duke
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Al M
Rebuilts
Chris, Presumably you would be buying a servicable block. The website for Moyers look nice but I don't know them at all. But you don't stay in business long by selling junk either. You could always get a fresh water cooling setup for it so that the only interface between salt and the engine would be limited to the heat exchanger. Electric sounds very promising but given your mooring situation it may not be a viable alternative. If you were in a slip or near a power supply it would be an ideal option for your stated useage but getting juice back into batteries is a B**ch sometimes. I run refrideration 24/7 on my boat which is on a mooring and even with a High output alternator, wind generator and solar panels there are time when I have to run the engine for a long, long time to get the (very heavy and expensive)battery bank back up to full charge. I love my boat but there are times when I want to get the "Boats Suck" bumper sticker. Al
Chris, Presumably you would be buying a servicable block. The website for Moyers look nice but I don't know them at all. But you don't stay in business long by selling junk either. You could always get a fresh water cooling setup for it so that the only interface between salt and the engine would be limited to the heat exchanger. Electric sounds very promising but given your mooring situation it may not be a viable alternative. If you were in a slip or near a power supply it would be an ideal option for your stated useage but getting juice back into batteries is a B**ch sometimes. I run refrideration 24/7 on my boat which is on a mooring and even with a High output alternator, wind generator and solar panels there are time when I have to run the engine for a long, long time to get the (very heavy and expensive)battery bank back up to full charge. I love my boat but there are times when I want to get the "Boats Suck" bumper sticker. Al
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Chris
please send pix
Duke - Thanks for the reply. If you have a chance would you either post or email (clee@ourstuffconsulting.com) a picture so that we can see what your bracket looks like? Regarding the 25" shaft - that is something I definitely have in mind although I do not think the lighter 2 stroke outboards came in that length. BTW I rediscussed with my wife and she is very much for the outboard - she just wants to go sailing and forget about the motor. It did not help the A-4 rebuild case when my neighbor told her yesterday that he has not had a single problem with his Yamaha outboard (he has a 20somefoot powerboat) in five years. Thanks! Chris
Duke - Thanks for the reply. If you have a chance would you either post or email (clee@ourstuffconsulting.com) a picture so that we can see what your bracket looks like? Regarding the 25" shaft - that is something I definitely have in mind although I do not think the lighter 2 stroke outboards came in that length. BTW I rediscussed with my wife and she is very much for the outboard - she just wants to go sailing and forget about the motor. It did not help the A-4 rebuild case when my neighbor told her yesterday that he has not had a single problem with his Yamaha outboard (he has a 20somefoot powerboat) in five years. Thanks! Chris
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Don smith
Yhe Most Economical Alternative
Hi Chris, Since cost seems to be of the highest priority, how about just deleting an engine entirely? Remember, Captain Slocum sailed around the world without an auxilliary. I still think your cost estimate is awfully high. When I bought my P-30 in 1997 I checked into a replacement diesel engine. A two cylinder Yanmar was quoted at $5K plus installation. It was the same type of engine qas was in my J-30 which was very adequate power. After deciding that I didn't wish to do it I've done very well with my Atomic. Total cost since 1997 a new carb for about $140 and a new alternator regulator for $70. I too have had excellent experience with Moyer. They are:Moyer Marine 3000 Derry St. Harrisburg, Pa 410-810-8920 Good Luck, Don Smith
Hi Chris, Since cost seems to be of the highest priority, how about just deleting an engine entirely? Remember, Captain Slocum sailed around the world without an auxilliary. I still think your cost estimate is awfully high. When I bought my P-30 in 1997 I checked into a replacement diesel engine. A two cylinder Yanmar was quoted at $5K plus installation. It was the same type of engine qas was in my J-30 which was very adequate power. After deciding that I didn't wish to do it I've done very well with my Atomic. Total cost since 1997 a new carb for about $140 and a new alternator regulator for $70. I too have had excellent experience with Moyer. They are:Moyer Marine 3000 Derry St. Harrisburg, Pa 410-810-8920 Good Luck, Don Smith
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Chris
What makes a diesel expensive
Don - Slocum never had to nudge between a line of fuel barges on LI Sound. The cost of a Kubota diesel is actually around $6 - 7K - the Yanmar may be a bit more - for reference a rebuilt A-4 goes for $4395 plus any options and shipping. The real expense of putting in the diesel lies in the labor and parts - mostly the labor which is 40 to 50 hours at whatever the going rate is (around here $85/hour) plus the parts. That's why the diesel costs $14K. The atomic 4 is actually pretty close to my price range but we are not talking only about the money - the real hassle starts when the A4 springs a small leak, needs a new coil, needs a transmission cable, starts overheating or start to make a new, strange noise. When that happens I have to find someone to work on it and then get the boat (somehow) over to their marina and then follow through to make sure the repair person has the information and/or go ahead to do what needs to gets done. I am thrilled with every technical person I have ever had work on my boat and my engine but that does not take away from the fact that all those tasks take time out of my day. And, bottom line, that is time that I would like to spend doing other things - such as sailing. Thanks! Chris
Don - Slocum never had to nudge between a line of fuel barges on LI Sound. The cost of a Kubota diesel is actually around $6 - 7K - the Yanmar may be a bit more - for reference a rebuilt A-4 goes for $4395 plus any options and shipping. The real expense of putting in the diesel lies in the labor and parts - mostly the labor which is 40 to 50 hours at whatever the going rate is (around here $85/hour) plus the parts. That's why the diesel costs $14K. The atomic 4 is actually pretty close to my price range but we are not talking only about the money - the real hassle starts when the A4 springs a small leak, needs a new coil, needs a transmission cable, starts overheating or start to make a new, strange noise. When that happens I have to find someone to work on it and then get the boat (somehow) over to their marina and then follow through to make sure the repair person has the information and/or go ahead to do what needs to gets done. I am thrilled with every technical person I have ever had work on my boat and my engine but that does not take away from the fact that all those tasks take time out of my day. And, bottom line, that is time that I would like to spend doing other things - such as sailing. Thanks! Chris
Outboard mounting
Chris, a friend of mine tried switching to an outboard when the diesel on his Siedleman 29.9 died. He reinforced the transom by glassing in some marine plywood and then through-bolted the lifting outboard mount and finally added a Johnson 15 with a 25" shaft. Not only did the boat handle lousy under power (underpowered, steered oddly because the center of thrust was changed) but in any sort of seas at all the outboard prop tended to pop out of the water, reducing speed even further. Eventually he got the diesel repaired. If I were you I'd think about purchasing a replacement A4, have the boat hauled a little early and do as much of the work yourself as possible. It'll be a bad job but probably not as bad as you think.
Chris, a friend of mine tried switching to an outboard when the diesel on his Siedleman 29.9 died. He reinforced the transom by glassing in some marine plywood and then through-bolted the lifting outboard mount and finally added a Johnson 15 with a 25" shaft. Not only did the boat handle lousy under power (underpowered, steered oddly because the center of thrust was changed) but in any sort of seas at all the outboard prop tended to pop out of the water, reducing speed even further. Eventually he got the diesel repaired. If I were you I'd think about purchasing a replacement A4, have the boat hauled a little early and do as much of the work yourself as possible. It'll be a bad job but probably not as bad as you think.
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Chris
Follow up - Atomic 4 with FWC
Thanks for your help on this everybody - I am planning to order a replacement A4 from Moyer Marine and am down to one last question - does anyone have the Fresh Water Cooling kit installed on their P30? Does the pulley on the front clear the stairs? And does the FWC system make the winterization process easier or harder? Thanks! Chris p.s. I will go electric when they have a lithium ion battery the size needed by a boat motor. You will be able to take it home at night, plug it in and then have enough juice to run the engine all day long!
Thanks for your help on this everybody - I am planning to order a replacement A4 from Moyer Marine and am down to one last question - does anyone have the Fresh Water Cooling kit installed on their P30? Does the pulley on the front clear the stairs? And does the FWC system make the winterization process easier or harder? Thanks! Chris p.s. I will go electric when they have a lithium ion battery the size needed by a boat motor. You will be able to take it home at night, plug it in and then have enough juice to run the engine all day long!
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Al M
Can't comment specifically
I can't comment directly about the fit or about A4s but a FWC cooled engine is actually easier to winterize. It looks like Moyer is using a Sendure kit, good product, well built and if you keep a 50% water /antifreeze mix in the fresh side you don't have to winterize it (the fresh side). Simply flush the salt side and then fill with fresh water and fill with antifreeze for the winter (preferably propylene glycol which is more environmetally friendly). Change the zinc annually and the coolant every other year (5 year if using Dexcool or extended life antifreeze). If the fitment of the pump pulley is a problem I have seen people use remote mounted electric pumps for raw water cooling. You had mentioned earlier a concern about reliability. You may want to give some thought to installing electronic ignition thereby doing away with points, condensor and setting the dwell and timing. Much higher spark can be had increasing the life of the plugs, their reliability and marginally better fuel economy also. Hope this helped, Al
I can't comment directly about the fit or about A4s but a FWC cooled engine is actually easier to winterize. It looks like Moyer is using a Sendure kit, good product, well built and if you keep a 50% water /antifreeze mix in the fresh side you don't have to winterize it (the fresh side). Simply flush the salt side and then fill with fresh water and fill with antifreeze for the winter (preferably propylene glycol which is more environmetally friendly). Change the zinc annually and the coolant every other year (5 year if using Dexcool or extended life antifreeze). If the fitment of the pump pulley is a problem I have seen people use remote mounted electric pumps for raw water cooling. You had mentioned earlier a concern about reliability. You may want to give some thought to installing electronic ignition thereby doing away with points, condensor and setting the dwell and timing. Much higher spark can be had increasing the life of the plugs, their reliability and marginally better fuel economy also. Hope this helped, Al
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will
atomic 4
Hi Chris: I sell Atomic 4 parts on the west coast. nuclearengine.com. I would suggest you try and find a used atomic 4. There are a lot of them down south now. I have more of them available here in washington than I can buy. I do come accros some that have been freshwater cooled, which is what you want. Try to get one from the greatlakes or an area like the columbia river, where they have not been in salt water. You can overhaul it yourself for about 1500 machine work and parts. For some reason that I do not understand the bearings and pistons are way over priced on these things. If you get a new distributor with electronic ignition, a new carb or properly rebuilt one, and freshwater cooling it will last upwards to 3000 hrs between overhauls if you change oil like you should. My biz has me overworked, I have some engines that I might overhaul this winter, one is mint, but nothing now. I understand your delima as I see people the same way every week. The atomic 4 is a great engine. Don't give up on it. Your east coast winter is coming and you will have plenty of time to rebuild or buy. Be careful on auctions as you might buy one that is in the same shape as yours. A new diesel will not add but a fraction to your resale. Remember your a-4 is old, mine is a 1969, I never touch the distributor, mallory distributor with electronic ignition, and I don't think it turns over twice before it starts, I just rebuilt the carb and I have a good racor filter, a must. It is freshwater cooled and will last me the rest of my life, which I hope is a long time. It will idle so slow you don't know it is running. I have a 30 Pearson also, coaster model and we love it. Good luck. Will
Hi Chris: I sell Atomic 4 parts on the west coast. nuclearengine.com. I would suggest you try and find a used atomic 4. There are a lot of them down south now. I have more of them available here in washington than I can buy. I do come accros some that have been freshwater cooled, which is what you want. Try to get one from the greatlakes or an area like the columbia river, where they have not been in salt water. You can overhaul it yourself for about 1500 machine work and parts. For some reason that I do not understand the bearings and pistons are way over priced on these things. If you get a new distributor with electronic ignition, a new carb or properly rebuilt one, and freshwater cooling it will last upwards to 3000 hrs between overhauls if you change oil like you should. My biz has me overworked, I have some engines that I might overhaul this winter, one is mint, but nothing now. I understand your delima as I see people the same way every week. The atomic 4 is a great engine. Don't give up on it. Your east coast winter is coming and you will have plenty of time to rebuild or buy. Be careful on auctions as you might buy one that is in the same shape as yours. A new diesel will not add but a fraction to your resale. Remember your a-4 is old, mine is a 1969, I never touch the distributor, mallory distributor with electronic ignition, and I don't think it turns over twice before it starts, I just rebuilt the carb and I have a good racor filter, a must. It is freshwater cooled and will last me the rest of my life, which I hope is a long time. It will idle so slow you don't know it is running. I have a 30 Pearson also, coaster model and we love it. Good luck. Will
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