I was thinking that there might be some options to avoid drilling and screwing "light duty" hardware to the deck of my boat. Any thoughts to my idea that there might be a glue that would be used for this application? I am thinking that if I wanted to remove it later that just the right amount of heat (not enought to melt the deck) could be used to soften the glue so as to remove the hardware (if I really had to). Any Ideas?
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What is ?
You will definately have to be more specific in your definition of 'light duty hardware'. A halyard cleat could be considered 'light duty' but i certainly wouldnt glue it on.
You will definately have to be more specific in your definition of 'light duty hardware'. A halyard cleat could be considered 'light duty' but i certainly wouldnt glue it on.
I could see
at some time what ever is glued becoming unglued if it topside the horrible sound of something falling overboard,if its in the cabin I guess it would'nt matter, I can't think of any thing topside that I would glue other than maybe a sign
at some time what ever is glued becoming unglued if it topside the horrible sound of something falling overboard,if its in the cabin I guess it would'nt matter, I can't think of any thing topside that I would glue other than maybe a sign
Actually.........
I cant think of anything that I would glue. Screw holes are easy to hide. Or even accent them. I have 'covered' many holee with stainless steel screws and finishing washers. At least I think they are called finishing washers. They are the kind where the screw head fits into a recess.
I cant think of anything that I would glue. Screw holes are easy to hide. Or even accent them. I have 'covered' many holee with stainless steel screws and finishing washers. At least I think they are called finishing washers. They are the kind where the screw head fits into a recess.
glued hardware
hi don't know what you have in mind but,i have glued "D"rings into my canoe to secure cargo and they have held for years . not my first choice for deck fittings though . used epoxy or polyurethane glue .i used 5200 to glue a platform in for my bilge pump works well looks tidy. also , yes there called finishing washer or finish washers or cup washers. mike
hi don't know what you have in mind but,i have glued "D"rings into my canoe to secure cargo and they have held for years . not my first choice for deck fittings though . used epoxy or polyurethane glue .i used 5200 to glue a platform in for my bilge pump works well looks tidy. also , yes there called finishing washer or finish washers or cup washers. mike
Worth the effort?
Hans - By 'on the deck' I'm assuming you don't mean in the cockpit, but at a location where, if the bond failed, your "light duty" whatever would probably wind up in Neptunes' locker. I can't imagine that it would be worth the trouble, time & cost to do it vs the trouble it would take to fill a bolt/screw hole if you decide to remove the whatever, but if the surface is properly prepared ( all wax, silicones etc etc removed from the surface) and the adhesive properly applied & allowed to cure, something like 3M5200 or a comparable product would undoubtedly bond. For a while. Just how long the bond lasts given exposure to UV, salt water,heat & heaven-knows-what chemicals, is uncertain. I've seen a product advertised that claims to free anything bonded with 5200 : IF it works, then your idea is probably viable and the bonded item could be removed without damage to the underlying laminate/gelcoat. I can't see it being worthwhile, but if you're prepared to gamble, fill your boots & good luck.
Hans - By 'on the deck' I'm assuming you don't mean in the cockpit, but at a location where, if the bond failed, your "light duty" whatever would probably wind up in Neptunes' locker. I can't imagine that it would be worth the trouble, time & cost to do it vs the trouble it would take to fill a bolt/screw hole if you decide to remove the whatever, but if the surface is properly prepared ( all wax, silicones etc etc removed from the surface) and the adhesive properly applied & allowed to cure, something like 3M5200 or a comparable product would undoubtedly bond. For a while. Just how long the bond lasts given exposure to UV, salt water,heat & heaven-knows-what chemicals, is uncertain. I've seen a product advertised that claims to free anything bonded with 5200 : IF it works, then your idea is probably viable and the bonded item could be removed without damage to the underlying laminate/gelcoat. I can't see it being worthwhile, but if you're prepared to gamble, fill your boots & good luck.
5200 & Stainless
Tks Ross. I wonder if the bonding surface of the stainless were abraded & prepped as described in some of the West System tech. manuals and given an coat of epoxy, allowed to cure, it would then be amenable to the 5200 bond ? Not that I'm anxious to try it myself......I still believe in mechanical fasteners for deck hardware.
Tks Ross. I wonder if the bonding surface of the stainless were abraded & prepped as described in some of the West System tech. manuals and given an coat of epoxy, allowed to cure, it would then be amenable to the 5200 bond ? Not that I'm anxious to try it myself......I still believe in mechanical fasteners for deck hardware.
TT, I was installing white oak rub rails on
Bietzpadlin and didn't want to drill thgrought the hull to fasten. So I hah six lone (one inch ) nuts welded to 2x3 inch stainless steel plates. I cleaned them up with a 25 grit sanding disk. That's about as abraded as you can get. Istuck the plates on each side and held them in place with tape for a week to let the 5200 cure. Then I attached the 1x3 prebent rails with 3/8 inch machine screws. There was some spring back in the wood such that I had to hold it in place while I set the screw perhaps ten pounds. The next morning three of the six had peeled the steel away from the urethane. So I ground the glass around the places that I wanted the plates and laminated glass over the plates. Two layer of ten ounce clothe and a little polyester resin and every thing stayed where I wanted it. Ihave since given them a work out on a piling here and there.
Bietzpadlin and didn't want to drill thgrought the hull to fasten. So I hah six lone (one inch ) nuts welded to 2x3 inch stainless steel plates. I cleaned them up with a 25 grit sanding disk. That's about as abraded as you can get. Istuck the plates on each side and held them in place with tape for a week to let the 5200 cure. Then I attached the 1x3 prebent rails with 3/8 inch machine screws. There was some spring back in the wood such that I had to hold it in place while I set the screw perhaps ten pounds. The next morning three of the six had peeled the steel away from the urethane. So I ground the glass around the places that I wanted the plates and laminated glass over the plates. Two layer of ten ounce clothe and a little polyester resin and every thing stayed where I wanted it. Ihave since given them a work out on a piling here and there.
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