I am glassing the hull deck joint, couple of questions. Should i use more than one layer, my plan was i only needed one layer to do it, and didnt want extra build up to hinder the toe rail going back on, but now i look at the one layer, and its just so flimsly and paper like. Also, i have been packing some fiberglass, and matt into the space, before i glassed it, will that do any good, will it bond, as i cant really clean in there.
Glassing in the Hull Deck Joint
- Thread starter AtlanticAl
- Start date
- Status
If you work carefully you can grind the original parts to a good taper and lay chopped strand mat in resin and get several layers built in and then restore the contour. Mine was glassed inside at the factory but I also glassed the outside to keep water out of the joint.
When I need to grind a reasonably accurate and consistent area, I make up a 'router base' for the grinder.
Use a square of plywood, and select a hole saw that is the same diameter as the mount for the guard on the grinder. Cut a hole in the plywood, then a slot about two blade widths from the front edge to the hole. glue and screw a couple of blocks at the slots, these have holes drilled through them for a screw to clamp it onto the grinder.
At two edges of the plywood square, fasten tapered strips (approximately 1.5x3/4 tapered from 1.5 to ??)
The tapered strips hold the grinder at an angle so it will cut at an elliptical groove, more taper will cut the center deeper, less angle will flatten it out. I wouldn't rely on it as the sole bond at the joint, but it will allow for a clean flat finished surface that will add strength.
Use either the toe rail, or a couple L shapes mounted on the base as a guide, can also use a board laid on the toe rail to ride against as a guide.
depending on where the joint is placed, you may have to get creative on the location of the actual guide surfaces and taper blocks
Use a square of plywood, and select a hole saw that is the same diameter as the mount for the guard on the grinder. Cut a hole in the plywood, then a slot about two blade widths from the front edge to the hole. glue and screw a couple of blocks at the slots, these have holes drilled through them for a screw to clamp it onto the grinder.
At two edges of the plywood square, fasten tapered strips (approximately 1.5x3/4 tapered from 1.5 to ??)
The tapered strips hold the grinder at an angle so it will cut at an elliptical groove, more taper will cut the center deeper, less angle will flatten it out. I wouldn't rely on it as the sole bond at the joint, but it will allow for a clean flat finished surface that will add strength.
Use either the toe rail, or a couple L shapes mounted on the base as a guide, can also use a board laid on the toe rail to ride against as a guide.
depending on where the joint is placed, you may have to get creative on the location of the actual guide surfaces and taper blocks
I had thought of doing it from the indside. But i didnt know if i get to every part of the joint on the inside. I was also, usure about what effect, water getting into the joint, then remaining in it would have. I now think what i will probably do, is put one layer on the outside, then put a couple of layers on the inside, and if i get to all the parts on the inside, then its not a problem.
May seem like a stupid thing to say, i am new to working fiberglass, but when the resin cured, it was an extremely solid joint. When i had put it on, just the one layer, i thought, their is no way that is going to be enough. Now i am looking at something that seems extremely strong.
May seem like a stupid thing to say, i am new to working fiberglass, but when the resin cured, it was an extremely solid joint. When i had put it on, just the one layer, i thought, their is no way that is going to be enough. Now i am looking at something that seems extremely strong.
- Status