Glass in a shaft tube Part 2

[Stephen Trapani]

The Backstory:

Going round and round the bend and back, taking my time, over how to repair my stern log. Started with having a stainless replacement made for $50, which turned out junky. Maine Sail said fiberglass was the best way and bronze was much better than stainless. I can’t find an exact replacement bronze piece but there are a number of bronze stern logs available if I glass in the old holes in the hull and drill new ones. Meanwhile I scoured the internet for potential pre-made fiberglass tubes. Most are sold in minimum 20’ lengths. I need 3 inches. Spoke with a very nice sales rep who happened to have the exact right size piece (1 ¾” O.D.) sitting on her desk and who insisted on shipping it to me free of charge. “Happy to help a fellow boat owner,” she said. "If you know anyone who needs a million feet, send them my way." She says it bonds well with epoxy.

Here’s an info page on what she sent:
http://www.amalgacomposites.com/amalga-black-amalgon.asp

The Current Plan:

I am studying up on How to Epoxy here:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/
And here:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/HowTo-Publications/Fiberglass-Boat-Repair-and-Maintenance.pdf

Based upon that information I plan on using 105 resin, 205 hardener (due to low temperature application), filing the holes and making two big fillets on the tube and hull (inside and out) with 404 filler, then glassing a layer or two of fiberglass over the whole thing on the exterior hull. I plan to dry fit the shaft in and shim between the shaft and the tube to hold it in place perfectly while I epoxy it enough to then remove the shaft and finish glassing it in. If it seems at all dicey when I’m done I can always cut it out and start over or change strategies.

Anyone see any problems or have any suggestions?

 

[Ed Schenck]

Sounds good to me. But I have a lot of practice with West System. Try to find some old fiberglass and do some practicing of your own. One squirt each from the pumps on the 105 and 205 provides more than enough epoxy to "make" something. Use some cloth and filler, build up a little at a time. Maybe epoxy a toilet paper tube to something. Use a thin, slow, buildup. Needless to say getting that new tube absolutely centered over the shaft(aimed at the cutlass) is key. Engine alignment only takes you so far.

 

[tommays]

It looks OK i just hope epoxy sticks to OD

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]BA's manufacturing process ensures a smooth self-lubricating inside surface that prevents pistons from sticking, even after they have remained idle for months.[/FONT]

The tube is pretty precise so you should be able to use off the shelf bronze bushings between the tube and you prop shaft to hold the part in aliment while you epoxy it

 

[sandpiper10471]

Grease up a piece of tubing to put around the shaft - 1"ID, 1 3/4" OD. That way you will be more sure of getting the glass tube glassed in true. Because you greased it well, it should come off both the shaft and the log.
Use fairly heavy cloth such as 17-5 stitchmat, cut on the bias so that it will take the compound shapes better. This is a pretty high stress area and you will need a good large footprint and a good thickness, tapering toward the edges.
Interesting project. Good luck.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Good idea Bill. First with a new cutlass bearing and the engine aligned of course. I hope there is room between the new tube and the shaft flange to get the stuffing box and hose out of the way. Gonna' be a really tight work space.

 

[Stephen Trapani]

Good idea Bill. First with a new cutlass bearing and the engine aligned of course. I hope there is room between the new tube and the shaft flange to get the stuffing box and hose out of the way. Gonna' be a really tight work space.

My plan is to "tab" the tube in with everything lined up, take the shaft back off, then I'll have plenty of room to glass it in thoroughly. And I have a PSS dripless shaft seal. Here is what I'll be glassing:

 

[MitchMan406]

Stephen:

I have a similar project - unfortunately.

Any updates here?

Where did you get the flange that bolts to the hull?
How did you "tab it in?"

Did you take any pictures while putting it back together?

Thanks!

 

[Stephen Trapani]

Stephen:

I have a similar project - unfortunately.

Any updates here?

Where did you get the flange that bolts to the hull?
How did you "tab it in?"

Did you take any pictures while putting it back together?

Thanks!

I'm just about done. Didn't use a flange at all, just filled it all in with filler filled epoxy (404) inside and out and then a coat of fiberglass on the outside. In this photo you can see how I tabbed it in. I dry fitted the shaft on and used plumbers putty (which you can see) to hold the tube in place (I used a strong fiberglass tube I found on the internet) while I slapped a gob of filler/resin on it. When it hardened I took the shaft back off and put another five or six applications of resin/filler, grinding down with a dremel here and there. I must say I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I think I'll be posting a thingy in the owner modifications in a few weeks about it. Have to splash this Monday!!

 

[MitchMan406]

Cool; thanks for the update.

Looking forward to your tutorial.

I have to pull my boat very soon to do the same repair. I'll wait for your update.

They're may be some valuable info there for me.

Thanks!

 

[Stephen Trapani]

Posted

I posted a description with pictures of what I did to owner modifications. Don't know how long it takes to get approved and put up on the site.

 

[MitchMan406]

Sweet! I am pulling the trigger on this repair myself very soon.

Look to haul the boat out in the next week or two.

Thanks; looking forward to it!

-Mitch