Not good
I've often thought it would be neat to do what you suggest on a boat, after having ridden in many tourist glass bottom boats over reefs and springs and wrecks. However, it is not easily done safely, even when done on boat expressly designed for that. I'd use lexan or glass, not acrylic (Plexiglas is a brand)because it's stronger, doesn't react to most engine fuels or other chemicals in water. HOwever, the way most glass bottom boats are designed are quite different than the light weight, very thin hulls of fiberglas that are our Macs. In the glass installation there must be a frame that has a minimum of flex under the worst expected conditions. The clear material in the port should have the minimum amount of expansion or contraction during changes of temperature to avoid compromising the sealant used. Remember the sealant can't be the only barrier to high pressure water intrusion, their must be phsyical barriers also like gaskets. I'd use a minimum of 1 inch thickness of glass or Lexan if I were to do it, to reduce the chance of fracture in an unexpected collision with flotsam or jetsam, reefs, old wrecks, drill pipes, or the trailer while loading and unloading. And forget landing on a beach to picnic or run the kids or dogs to burn off energy, because contact with sand, gravel or sand filled water would abrade the surface of the viewing port making it almost useless.Best idaa and a lot more versatile, and less expensive to do the same thing is get a good underwater video camera with cockpit or cabin display. Better a sensor hung over the side, or affixed to the transom or swim platform, than a hole in the hull, even if you solve the water ballast problem in installation.