Gin pole / A frame ?
- Thread starter slowdog
- Start date
- Status
I think I recall Hunters using an A frame device to raise the mast on some of there trailer sailors.
I think the A frame is used to keep the mast more balanced and less apt to fall over sideways.
On the 26D & S there are "baby Stays" that stop the mast from going sideways.
I don't ues the pile that came with my boat. I raise it like a ladder.
I think the A frame is used to keep the mast more balanced and less apt to fall over sideways.
On the 26D & S there are "baby Stays" that stop the mast from going sideways.
I don't ues the pile that came with my boat. I raise it like a ladder.
here are some photos of how I rigged mine....
instead of using baby stays, I ran the tackle thru a "bridal" that clipped onto a bail on the mast.... then to cleats on the deck. that prevented the mast from going sideways while raising or lowering.
I stowed it upright along the mast when sailing and hanging from the pulpit when trailering.
the gin pole shown was 8'long... it could have been 2ft shorter and been just as functional and easier to use....
when I wanted to either raise or lower the mast, I clipped the bridal to the bail on the mast, then attached the rigging to the cleats on either side of the deck, then attached the other end to the top of the gin pole.
then for ease of raising and lowering, and being able to stop and untangle rigging at any point in the procedure, I had a 3to1 ratchet tackle from the top of the gin pole to the bow cleat for the hoisting rigging.....
instead of using baby stays, I ran the tackle thru a "bridal" that clipped onto a bail on the mast.... then to cleats on the deck. that prevented the mast from going sideways while raising or lowering.
I stowed it upright along the mast when sailing and hanging from the pulpit when trailering.
the gin pole shown was 8'long... it could have been 2ft shorter and been just as functional and easier to use....
when I wanted to either raise or lower the mast, I clipped the bridal to the bail on the mast, then attached the rigging to the cleats on either side of the deck, then attached the other end to the top of the gin pole.
then for ease of raising and lowering, and being able to stop and untangle rigging at any point in the procedure, I had a 3to1 ratchet tackle from the top of the gin pole to the bow cleat for the hoisting rigging.....
Attachments
So here's how my rig is set up...
There are four still photos before the video starts.
The first photo (hit pause!) shows the A-Frame set up and connected.
The blue line is a "stay" that runs from an eye-bolt at the top of the A to a loop that goes around a bow cleat. The length is such that when cleated, the A stands vertical.
The second photo shows the top of the A-Frame.
You can see the blue line tied at the eye-bolt. That's the stay that runs to a bow cleat. The other side is a block that has the white working line through it. That block has a removable pin so you can detach the working line after raising / lowering the mast.
The third photo shows the mast-end of the working line.
There is a swiveling block with a "Becket" -a dead eye to tie off the line. It is shackled to the bale on the mast. and it remains there, with the working line all the time. The line begins at the Becket, runs up around the block on the top of the A, back around the block at the mast and then forward to me! ...that's where you pull.
The fourth photo shows the lower end of one A-Frame legs.
The legs are fiberglass extensions poles for painting. They have a double wall aluminum extension part that I drilled and permanently bolted to make the legs 11' long. That makes the geometry about perfect for a Capri 22 mast. The extension poles came with really nice rubber "boots" on the bottom! As well as a hole for attaching a small carabiner! The carabiners clip to the small, angled support piece on the forward stanchion.
The video shows me raising it and lowering it.
But the key is that I have very good lateral control while going up & down! Very important when you're doing this with any wind! As you can see while lowering, I have no problem gently laying the mast down onto the rear support roller.
This short video shows how the rear support roller is made and how I connect it to the transom...
Hope all of this helps!
Again, the first video is without the genoa attached because I was checking the lengths and connections... this is a new and improved version A-Frame! It's certainly heavier with the genoa connected and velcro-strapped to the mast while raising it, but you get the point.
-JAMES-
"Bella Barchetta"
There are four still photos before the video starts.
The first photo (hit pause!) shows the A-Frame set up and connected.
The blue line is a "stay" that runs from an eye-bolt at the top of the A to a loop that goes around a bow cleat. The length is such that when cleated, the A stands vertical.
The second photo shows the top of the A-Frame.
You can see the blue line tied at the eye-bolt. That's the stay that runs to a bow cleat. The other side is a block that has the white working line through it. That block has a removable pin so you can detach the working line after raising / lowering the mast.
The third photo shows the mast-end of the working line.
There is a swiveling block with a "Becket" -a dead eye to tie off the line. It is shackled to the bale on the mast. and it remains there, with the working line all the time. The line begins at the Becket, runs up around the block on the top of the A, back around the block at the mast and then forward to me! ...that's where you pull.
The fourth photo shows the lower end of one A-Frame legs.
The legs are fiberglass extensions poles for painting. They have a double wall aluminum extension part that I drilled and permanently bolted to make the legs 11' long. That makes the geometry about perfect for a Capri 22 mast. The extension poles came with really nice rubber "boots" on the bottom! As well as a hole for attaching a small carabiner! The carabiners clip to the small, angled support piece on the forward stanchion.
The video shows me raising it and lowering it.
But the key is that I have very good lateral control while going up & down! Very important when you're doing this with any wind! As you can see while lowering, I have no problem gently laying the mast down onto the rear support roller.
This short video shows how the rear support roller is made and how I connect it to the transom...
Hope all of this helps!
Again, the first video is without the genoa attached because I was checking the lengths and connections... this is a new and improved version A-Frame! It's certainly heavier with the genoa connected and velcro-strapped to the mast while raising it, but you get the point.
-JAMES-
"Bella Barchetta"
A long lever can move the earth!
A gin pole or A-frame is a lever, so the longer the lever the more it will lift or the easier it will be.
A gin pole or A-frame is a lever, so the longer the lever the more it will lift or the easier it will be.
A couple of things to keep in mind.
The gin pole should be low enough when vertical that you can easily make whatever connection you need to the mast. In my case, I use the jib halyard, so with the gin pole a bit over center, I can reach the eye strap to tie a bowline with ease.
The other point, assuming it's live (moves as the mast goes up/down), is that the end should more or less be right over the deck attachment point of the rigging. If it's 2 ft longer (for instance), the angle between the live rigging, which pulls the gin pole down as you raise the mast, and the gin pole as it approaches the deck will become very acute, and it loses mechanical advantage rapidly. Being longer than what's needed in this case will work against you, especially if you need to pull down hard to make the forestay.
I would pick my spot on the deck for attaching the lower block, and make the gin pole just long enough to put the eye strap right over that point when it's horizontal.
The gin pole should be low enough when vertical that you can easily make whatever connection you need to the mast. In my case, I use the jib halyard, so with the gin pole a bit over center, I can reach the eye strap to tie a bowline with ease.
The other point, assuming it's live (moves as the mast goes up/down), is that the end should more or less be right over the deck attachment point of the rigging. If it's 2 ft longer (for instance), the angle between the live rigging, which pulls the gin pole down as you raise the mast, and the gin pole as it approaches the deck will become very acute, and it loses mechanical advantage rapidly. Being longer than what's needed in this case will work against you, especially if you need to pull down hard to make the forestay.
I would pick my spot on the deck for attaching the lower block, and make the gin pole just long enough to put the eye strap right over that point when it's horizontal.
Just a thought, but before going to all that trouble, why not try to step the mast by hand, I do it every time without issue solo, just rig the jib halyard to the forestay bracket where the foot of the jib goes, pop the mast up and cleat the halyard off to keep the mast up while you rig the forestay. A Johnson lever makes tensioning the forestay easier.
Timo42... you're lucky that the geometry allows for that on your Venture.
I can tell without question that it would not be possible on my Capri 22.
-JAMES-
"Bella Barchetta"
I can tell without question that it would not be possible on my Capri 22.
-JAMES-
"Bella Barchetta"
The last time I put my mast up fully by hand - I did & it was. I started by making a single pole but what I've got now is an 8 ft A frame that is a right angle to the mast that rotates down to the bow as the mast rises. I use a double block attached to the top on the bow side A frame to rotate it down while the fore stay is attached to the mast side of the A, the last 30 degrees can be rotated down by hand - if I want. some thoughts: I can leave all the shrouds/back stay connected for quick set up when trailering, the single gin pole I used took more rigging and wasn't as stable as the A, long term goal is drop the mast to get under a bridge when in wavy water then bring it back up single handed. The A frame should work equally easy with a roller furler. I use a bridle for the mast baby stays pivot that are 6ft cargo straps which keeps it simple.
A crutch that holds the mast higher than the cabin top mounted at the stern of the boat gives both the A frame and the Gin Pole more advantage in getting the mast started up. I've used both GP and AF and prefer the AF as it helps keep the mast from side sway and twist. a combination of both would of course be better. One fellow in our group (C22) has his A frame mounted permanently on deck, it sits on the bow pulpit when sailing.
- Status