Gore GFO packing (for stuffing boxes) came up for discussion here last August. The E-Marine website and the posts from experienced users all claim that GFO can run dripless. However I just downloaded the installation instructions from the Gore site and they don't make that claim. In particular they say you need to let water leak for the first 2 hrs. of running before doing the first tightening adjustment. And I didn't see any claims that it should run dripless. Now keep in mind that Gore's site is aimed at selling this product to the water pump mtce. market and no mention is made of boat shafts. Is e-marines claims valid? Thanks, Kevin
GFO packing question
- Thread starter Kevin B
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Mine Is Very Dry..
I let mine do the drip drip drip for a few hours of run time before I tightened it down and I can say it's virtually drip free. Don't be fooled into thinking those PSS Shaft Seals are any drier. Here's what I learned about my PSS on my old C-36. First, they shoot a fine black spray trail of of salt water and carbon or graphite which ever the face seal is made of in a 360 degree circle in your engine compartment spinning outward from the seal. This drove me nuts! Second, you need to burp them occasionally after long motoring or motoring in rough weather. It's not as easy as the once a year burp they claim. Every time I had to burp my seal it was very hot meaning air was trapped and I ran out of water to lube it with! With this boat I chose to not order a PSS but rather a conventional stuffing box and then add GFO Packing. I could not be any more satisfied with the GFO packing.
I let mine do the drip drip drip for a few hours of run time before I tightened it down and I can say it's virtually drip free. Don't be fooled into thinking those PSS Shaft Seals are any drier. Here's what I learned about my PSS on my old C-36. First, they shoot a fine black spray trail of of salt water and carbon or graphite which ever the face seal is made of in a 360 degree circle in your engine compartment spinning outward from the seal. This drove me nuts! Second, you need to burp them occasionally after long motoring or motoring in rough weather. It's not as easy as the once a year burp they claim. Every time I had to burp my seal it was very hot meaning air was trapped and I ran out of water to lube it with! With this boat I chose to not order a PSS but rather a conventional stuffing box and then add GFO Packing. I could not be any more satisfied with the GFO packing.
The e-marine site
refers to the product several times as "dripless packing" and says in the installation instructions that after the 1 to 2 hour run-in that the final adjustment should be "virtually dripless." Some lawyer probably made 'em insert the word "virtually" but the stuff works for me.
refers to the product several times as "dripless packing" and says in the installation instructions that after the 1 to 2 hour run-in that the final adjustment should be "virtually dripless." Some lawyer probably made 'em insert the word "virtually" but the stuff works for me.
PSS seal experience
I don’t doubt your experiences with the PSS dripless shaft seal, but they are different than what I experienced. I had the PSS installed during initial commissioning six years ago in our C310. There was some carbon sling during the first few hours of run in, but nothing noticeable since then. And absolutely no water slinging, leaking or anything else during the six years we’ve had it. I’ve only burped the seal four times, at re-launching after haul outs. I don’t know why you had different results.
I don’t doubt your experiences with the PSS dripless shaft seal, but they are different than what I experienced. I had the PSS installed during initial commissioning six years ago in our C310. There was some carbon sling during the first few hours of run in, but nothing noticeable since then. And absolutely no water slinging, leaking or anything else during the six years we’ve had it. I’ve only burped the seal four times, at re-launching after haul outs. I don’t know why you had different results.
GFO packing
I have used GFO packing now on 2 diferent boats now for over 5 years. It is adjusted to drip after initial installation for a short period of time (3-5 hours) until the packing is "set". Then you adjust the stuffing box and it can be run totally dripless with no problem. I have had a PSS seal on a previous boat and liked the product but IMHO for the money and reliability factor I would go with a stuffing box and the GFO packing.
I have used GFO packing now on 2 diferent boats now for over 5 years. It is adjusted to drip after initial installation for a short period of time (3-5 hours) until the packing is "set". Then you adjust the stuffing box and it can be run totally dripless with no problem. I have had a PSS seal on a previous boat and liked the product but IMHO for the money and reliability factor I would go with a stuffing box and the GFO packing.
Here's what the GORE site says
Thanks for the feedback guys. After reading your posts I re-read the Gore installation instructions and perhaps I was taking my interpretation of the instructions too far. Based on you feedback I'll assume these instructions only apply to the run-in period. FYI, here is what the GORE site instalation instructions say: 5) AFTER THE LAST RING IS INSTALLED, take up bolts finger tight. Do not jam the packing into place by excessive gland loading. Start pump and take up bolts until leakage is decreased to a tolerable minimum. Make sure gland bolts are taken up evenly. STOPPING LEAKAGE ENTIRELY AT THIS POINT WILL CAUSE THE PACKING TO BURN UP. 6) WHEN STARTING UP A NEWLY-PACKED PUMP, ALLOW PACKING TO LEAK FREELY. Excessive leakage during the first hour of operation will result in a better packing job over a longer period of time. Take up gradually on the glad as the packing seats, until leakage is reduced to a tolerable level, preferably 8-10 drops per minute, per inch of shaft diameter. NEVER TRY TO STOP LEAKAGE ENTIRELY, UNLESS PACKING MANUFACTURER INDICATES THAT IT IS SAFE TO DO SO.
Thanks for the feedback guys. After reading your posts I re-read the Gore installation instructions and perhaps I was taking my interpretation of the instructions too far. Based on you feedback I'll assume these instructions only apply to the run-in period. FYI, here is what the GORE site instalation instructions say: 5) AFTER THE LAST RING IS INSTALLED, take up bolts finger tight. Do not jam the packing into place by excessive gland loading. Start pump and take up bolts until leakage is decreased to a tolerable minimum. Make sure gland bolts are taken up evenly. STOPPING LEAKAGE ENTIRELY AT THIS POINT WILL CAUSE THE PACKING TO BURN UP. 6) WHEN STARTING UP A NEWLY-PACKED PUMP, ALLOW PACKING TO LEAK FREELY. Excessive leakage during the first hour of operation will result in a better packing job over a longer period of time. Take up gradually on the glad as the packing seats, until leakage is reduced to a tolerable level, preferably 8-10 drops per minute, per inch of shaft diameter. NEVER TRY TO STOP LEAKAGE ENTIRELY, UNLESS PACKING MANUFACTURER INDICATES THAT IT IS SAFE TO DO SO.
R.C., and they don't last forever
My boat neighbour on the hard was just complaining to me that he has to replace his PSS because it is constantly leaking at the graphite to SS disc joint. It was original equipment on the boat so its seen a few years of service, but its going to be a lot more work and $$$$ than just replacing some packing. Kevin
My boat neighbour on the hard was just complaining to me that he has to replace his PSS because it is constantly leaking at the graphite to SS disc joint. It was original equipment on the boat so its seen a few years of service, but its going to be a lot more work and $$$$ than just replacing some packing. Kevin
Ten-Plus Years
I talked to the PSS manufacturer's service department. I asked them what service I should pull after 10 years and 1000 + hours. They said a bellows replacement would be prudent. That was it. I replaced it. The old one was in perfect shape. I kept it as a spare. FWIW, RD
I talked to the PSS manufacturer's service department. I asked them what service I should pull after 10 years and 1000 + hours. They said a bellows replacement would be prudent. That was it. I replaced it. The old one was in perfect shape. I kept it as a spare. FWIW, RD
Another PSS Issue
Below is a post from another sailing forum. You don't need to remove the prop shaft to replace GFO packing! Again PSS seals do not always last forever. PSS made fairly good on this pitting issue but the R&R for most people will cost hundreds of dollars! GFO is $15.00..... Quote- "I spoke with PYI support today regarding my pitted stainless sealing ring for a PSS dripless shaft seal. I wanted to know the best way to resurface it (whether to sand it, send it to them or bring it to a local machine shop). I gave the whole background and discussed the extent of pitting and the installation. They were very helpful about how to avoid the pitting in the future, and sympathetic -- sold me a new one at cost (under $40 including freight). You can't beat that."
Below is a post from another sailing forum. You don't need to remove the prop shaft to replace GFO packing! Again PSS seals do not always last forever. PSS made fairly good on this pitting issue but the R&R for most people will cost hundreds of dollars! GFO is $15.00..... Quote- "I spoke with PYI support today regarding my pitted stainless sealing ring for a PSS dripless shaft seal. I wanted to know the best way to resurface it (whether to sand it, send it to them or bring it to a local machine shop). I gave the whole background and discussed the extent of pitting and the installation. They were very helpful about how to avoid the pitting in the future, and sympathetic -- sold me a new one at cost (under $40 including freight). You can't beat that."
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