I've got tired of sanding/repainting my keel every year. So, this year, I tried something different - sanded the worst of the rust, applied 2 layers of rust treatment (NOT POR-15), and followed with Rustoleum Primer for the very rusted metal. now I'll put on 2 layers of Interlux antifouling paint and report the results on this forum in 6 month. I cannot do any worse than I did the previous 3 seasons...
getting innovative about painting my keel
- Thread starter Piotr
- Start date
Newbie here and after reading preventative posts I pulled my rusty keel I kind of did the same thing but I'm in freshwater and will see how this works...I sanded down to almost all bare metal but did leave some of the red oxide (I think that's what it is) that was already there then used Rustoleum rust reformer then three coats of Rusto rusty metal primer. Then I used Rustoleum Professional glossy white with a farm paint hardner mixed in it. I hope it works cause that was a lot of work and sure don't wanna do it again soon. It sure is a pretty keel now!
I take the easy way out.... a couple of cans of spray paint and in 20 minutes its done.
the cast iron that the keel is made of will never rust the way steel does.... even in a salt enviroment, cast iron will outlast steel 3 to 1. the crystalline structure of cast iron does not allow fast erosion or heavy rusting of the metal
it will only be a surface rust and wont flake off in chunks, so the spray paint will adhere to the rust and inhibit it thru the season, so it shows a nice clean painted keel.
over the winter as it sets tarped on the trailer, the rust does begin to show again, so another couple cans of spray paint later it looks as good as ever.
my experience shows sanding as a waste of precious time, as a quick wipe down with a scotch brite pad before painting will remove any loose particles that will get in the way of good paint coverage.
also, sanding actually removes the iron oxide barrier that has been naturally created by the metal as it is exposed to the corrosive effects of oxygen, that in turn, helps to protect the metal from further corrosion.
when you remove this barrier from cast iron, it wants to rebuild itself on the surface of the unprotected metal. painting can help, but the metal wants its natural barrier coat, so it will rust again at its first chance.... painting over trhe rust is the best for the metal and easiest for us
the cast iron that the keel is made of will never rust the way steel does.... even in a salt enviroment, cast iron will outlast steel 3 to 1. the crystalline structure of cast iron does not allow fast erosion or heavy rusting of the metal
it will only be a surface rust and wont flake off in chunks, so the spray paint will adhere to the rust and inhibit it thru the season, so it shows a nice clean painted keel.
over the winter as it sets tarped on the trailer, the rust does begin to show again, so another couple cans of spray paint later it looks as good as ever.
my experience shows sanding as a waste of precious time, as a quick wipe down with a scotch brite pad before painting will remove any loose particles that will get in the way of good paint coverage.
also, sanding actually removes the iron oxide barrier that has been naturally created by the metal as it is exposed to the corrosive effects of oxygen, that in turn, helps to protect the metal from further corrosion.
when you remove this barrier from cast iron, it wants to rebuild itself on the surface of the unprotected metal. painting can help, but the metal wants its natural barrier coat, so it will rust again at its first chance.... painting over trhe rust is the best for the metal and easiest for us
I did what Piotr did three four years ago minus the Interlux. the PO had put antifoul paint on the keel. Real bad flaking. I wire wheeled it down, Xtend coated it... then applied the heavy rust primer. Topped with Rustoleum industrial grey. Held up great with just a few patches showing this year. Unfortunately the patches were grinding the locker sides away. So....
I dropped the keel and wire wheeled it down to get the bad spots off and POR15'd the entire thing. I had left over from refinishing my trailer. Two coats and no top coat. I did apply a thin coat of West System epoxy to both sides where there is trunk contact( around the pivot bolt). I also put 2"x8" strips of glass with epoxy on each side of the trunk. I figure they will be sacrificial wear guards. Easy to check and maintain. Gotta love West System epoxy. Winch grease on the pivot bolt and on the keel- 4" swath around the bolt, both sides. Finally scraped and wire wheeled the washers and put a strip of butyl tape under the washers. Cable and attaching hardware was still as fresh looking as when I replaced it four years ago. One less major component to worry about. I attached some of the before shots.
I dropped the keel and wire wheeled it down to get the bad spots off and POR15'd the entire thing. I had left over from refinishing my trailer. Two coats and no top coat. I did apply a thin coat of West System epoxy to both sides where there is trunk contact( around the pivot bolt). I also put 2"x8" strips of glass with epoxy on each side of the trunk. I figure they will be sacrificial wear guards. Easy to check and maintain. Gotta love West System epoxy. Winch grease on the pivot bolt and on the keel- 4" swath around the bolt, both sides. Finally scraped and wire wheeled the washers and put a strip of butyl tape under the washers. Cable and attaching hardware was still as fresh looking as when I replaced it four years ago. One less major component to worry about. I attached some of the before shots.
Attachments
Guess I was just paranoid
Centerline you made me feel a little better about it not rusting and falling off so maybe after this year I'll just touch it up then. Sounds like it will always show surface rust from what you guys are saying and glad I didn't go thru the expense of high dollar epoxy paint since I only trailer anyway. Trying to sail on a budget here so always looking for the alternatives that won't cost me more work down the road. Since I trailer I painted bottom with Rustoleum Professional with hardner added also and I will post the results of this after this season.
Centerline you made me feel a little better about it not rusting and falling off so maybe after this year I'll just touch it up then. Sounds like it will always show surface rust from what you guys are saying and glad I didn't go thru the expense of high dollar epoxy paint since I only trailer anyway. Trying to sail on a budget here so always looking for the alternatives that won't cost me more work down the road. Since I trailer I painted bottom with Rustoleum Professional with hardner added also and I will post the results of this after this season.
no matter if its painted or left absolutely bare, it has little to no effect on whether the bolt hole wears out and lets the keel fall off.
you need to know the condition the keelhole/pivot bolt is in to insure you wont have any unexpected disappointments....
the biggest factor with the keel bolt hole wearing, is by owners who moor the boat with the keel in the raised position... as the boat rocks, the keel rocks back and forth on the bolt and causes a much higher rate of wear than when the keel is left down. when its down, the keel is in a much more secure and stabilized position.
there is also the natural electrolysis action of the two dissimilar metals, which may cause slight "wear", but due to the fact that the keel and bolt are isolated from being grounded to any electrical source, the electrolytic action is so very small between the stainless pivot bolt and the cast iron keel that its not a concern.
Thanks
You have cleared up a lot of things for me and that makes sense. My main goal in the first place was to inspect the pivot bolt. Well then I figured I was that far and might as well paint the keel, then thought since boats off the trailer might as well bottom paint, then might as well paint the trailer, then might as well fix butchered up rudder, then........lol. I think it's bout time for me to go sailing before I lose it. One question I do have. I pulled my bent lock down bolt and it was galvenized??? Can I replace it with the same or should I go stainless or???
You have cleared up a lot of things for me and that makes sense. My main goal in the first place was to inspect the pivot bolt. Well then I figured I was that far and might as well paint the keel, then thought since boats off the trailer might as well bottom paint, then might as well paint the trailer, then might as well fix butchered up rudder, then........lol. I think it's bout time for me to go sailing before I lose it. One question I do have. I pulled my bent lock down bolt and it was galvenized??? Can I replace it with the same or should I go stainless or???
Have you guys considered using Rusteze Medicated Bumper Ointment
"Get speedy, soothing, wonderful relief from the pain and discomfort of rust. Fast-acting Rust-eze contains up to 2 1/2 more Eze for quick soothing relief. We promise."
—Clink and Clank
"Get speedy, soothing, wonderful relief from the pain and discomfort of rust. Fast-acting Rust-eze contains up to 2 1/2 more Eze for quick soothing relief. We promise."
—Clink and Clank
Painting my old cast iron keel is soooo far down on the fix it list.
As long as the pivot bolt and winch cable are sound - I don't really care.
While on the trailer you have to practically crawl under the trailer to see it and while in the water - who's looking? Walleye???
YMMV
As long as the pivot bolt and winch cable are sound - I don't really care.
While on the trailer you have to practically crawl under the trailer to see it and while in the water - who's looking? Walleye???
YMMV
you can do whatever you have to in a pinch, but when planning in advance i would recommend you do it right and go stainless... a rusty keel is fine, but a rusty bolt thru the boat is NOT!!!
Ok I'll go stainless. That is the obvious answer but I didn't know of they put galvenized in to act as a kind of breakaway bolt in case they grounded. I've read people using oak dowels and stuff to prevent keel coming up thru the keel trunk. I didn't use one last year but going to bigger lake this time and believe it or not we get some serious direction changing wind really fast here in Oklahoma and would like the peace of mind when it's safely deep enough. And my beautiful keel finish coats were for protection not perfection.
Iron oxide does NOT create a barrier, like the aluminium oxide does.When I said "sanding" I meant removing flaking antifouling paint.I take the easy way out.... a couple of cans of spray paint and in 20 minutes its done.
the cast iron that the keel is made of will never rust the way steel does.... even in a salt enviroment, cast iron will outlast steel 3 to 1. the crystalline structure of cast iron does not allow fast erosion or heavy rusting of the metal
it will only be a surface rust and wont flake off in chunks, so the spray paint will adhere to the rust and inhibit it thru the season, so it shows a nice clean painted keel.
over the winter as it sets tarped on the trailer, the rust does begin to show again, so another couple cans of spray paint later it looks as good as ever.
my experience shows sanding as a waste of precious time, as a quick wipe down with a scotch brite pad before painting will remove any loose particles that will get in the way of good paint coverage.
also, sanding actually removes the iron oxide barrier that has been naturally created by the metal as it is exposed to the corrosive effects of oxygen, that in turn, helps to protect the metal from further corrosion.
when you remove this barrier from cast iron, it wants to rebuild itself on the surface of the unprotected metal. painting can help, but the metal wants its natural barrier coat, so it will rust again at its first chance.... painting over trhe rust is the best for the metal and easiest for us
The problem is for us folks leaving the boat in the water the whole season. If I didn't paint it with the antifouling paint, the area around the boat would look like a sargasso sea in about 6 weeks....
I don't even know how to respond to this....Have you guys considered using Rusteze Medicated Bumper Ointment
"Get speedy, soothing, wonderful relief from the pain and discomfort of rust. Fast-acting Rust-eze contains up to 2 1/2 more Eze for quick soothing relief. We promise."
—Clink and Clank
I actually paid $360 for somebody from the marina to put extra layers of fiberglass in the trunk. To this day I'm questioning, how the heck did they do it WITHOUT removing the keel....
Ka-CHOW!!Have you guys considered using Rusteze Medicated Bumper Ointment