Is there a source for a bent genoa track that will fit next to the toe rail of my '85 H23? Is the placement of the fixed block critical for trimming the 110? It seems to be in line with the outer stay. I've looked at other 23's with tracks added and they all use short segments of track just forward of the winches. Other boats have curved tracks either on or just inboard of the toe rail. Since I'm not a real 'racer', does it really matter? Thanks Ernie
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I don't think it matters.
Stright track is cheeper than the curved track. The installation in frount of the winches is the easiest from the "access to the bolts" point of view. West Marine can supply the curved track to your specification for a price. Greg
Stright track is cheeper than the curved track. The installation in frount of the winches is the easiest from the "access to the bolts" point of view. West Marine can supply the curved track to your specification for a price. Greg
Use Straight Track
Recommend just using straight track and bending it as you put the bolts in. Start with one end and two bolts can be put in easily. With each additional bolt just reef on the bitter end of the track until the bolt drops in. The last few you might need a drift pin. The track is aluminum and you should be able to do the large radius bend as you go along installing the bolts. Add sealant to make it water tight.
Recommend just using straight track and bending it as you put the bolts in. Start with one end and two bolts can be put in easily. With each additional bolt just reef on the bitter end of the track until the bolt drops in. The last few you might need a drift pin. The track is aluminum and you should be able to do the large radius bend as you go along installing the bolts. Add sealant to make it water tight.
Straight track is fine
Just make sure that it's long enough so the sheave can be properly adjusted for the various headsails that you use. I used about 3-1/2 feet of straight track mounted on the non-skid portion of the side deck between the shrouds and the winch. It works fine for the 110 working jib and 135 genoa. I mounted it about an inch inside the location of the original fixed block to narrow the sheeting angle a bit more. There is just a little chafe on the shrouds. One last thing. Spend the extra effort and seal every bolt hole with epoxy before you start fastening the track down, and mask everything you don't want to get caulk on. You'll be glad you did for years to come. Peter H23 "Raven"
Just make sure that it's long enough so the sheave can be properly adjusted for the various headsails that you use. I used about 3-1/2 feet of straight track mounted on the non-skid portion of the side deck between the shrouds and the winch. It works fine for the 110 working jib and 135 genoa. I mounted it about an inch inside the location of the original fixed block to narrow the sheeting angle a bit more. There is just a little chafe on the shrouds. One last thing. Spend the extra effort and seal every bolt hole with epoxy before you start fastening the track down, and mask everything you don't want to get caulk on. You'll be glad you did for years to come. Peter H23 "Raven"
Epoxy Seal Deck Holes
I agree with Peter's comment about first epoxy sealing any holes in the deck. If the holes are existing from the factory the sealant should be cleaned out to bare glass and wood first before trying to epoxy seal.
I agree with Peter's comment about first epoxy sealing any holes in the deck. If the holes are existing from the factory the sealant should be cleaned out to bare glass and wood first before trying to epoxy seal.
suggestion
Most manufacturers drill holes into the decks when inserting bolts, thru hull fittings, etc. and then caulk sometimes using 5200 or a silicon sealant as a rule of thumb. If you want to protect the wood coring in the deck, then an epoxy sealer can be used to coat the sides of the hole and some use vinlyester resin. However, read on The older boats use to use straight grain balsa in the deck coring and if water got in, it would migrate throughout and delaminate the deck. This is not done anymore as layup,materials, etc. have changed in the building process to prevent this. The key when adding anything to a boat where you have to drill is caulking. For the genoa tracks, I suggest 5200 liberally and let it ooze out. Circle the hole and coat the heck out of the bolts before insertion. You can clean up the caulk with acetone but alcohol is better. Crazy Dave Condon
Most manufacturers drill holes into the decks when inserting bolts, thru hull fittings, etc. and then caulk sometimes using 5200 or a silicon sealant as a rule of thumb. If you want to protect the wood coring in the deck, then an epoxy sealer can be used to coat the sides of the hole and some use vinlyester resin. However, read on The older boats use to use straight grain balsa in the deck coring and if water got in, it would migrate throughout and delaminate the deck. This is not done anymore as layup,materials, etc. have changed in the building process to prevent this. The key when adding anything to a boat where you have to drill is caulking. For the genoa tracks, I suggest 5200 liberally and let it ooze out. Circle the hole and coat the heck out of the bolts before insertion. You can clean up the caulk with acetone but alcohol is better. Crazy Dave Condon
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