general confusion on leech tension

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Jun 12, 2010
936
Oday 22 Orleans Marina, NOLA
I read Don's book when I first started sailing a year ago but most of the stuff didn't stick because I had no experience to relate it to. I'm going back over it now with the goal of comprehension and retention and I quickly ran into a point I don't quite get.

Don states that (in combination with other adjustments) increasing leech tension increases draft depth and I'm just not seeing why.

In a fuller context:

ease outhaul, reduce luff tension (ease halyard) and increase leech tension (vang|sheet) to increases depth

tighten outhaul, increase luff tension (halyard) and decrease leech tension (vang|sheet) to decrease depth

I don't doubt it, I just don't get it. Seems reducing luff tension would increase depth and vice-versa.
 
Jun 12, 2010
936
Oday 22 Orleans Marina, NOLA
wait...wait...I'm thinking...

...reducing leech tension increases twist, and if the top of the sail is twisted it can't be participating in depth...so depth is reduced.

is that it?
 
May 17, 2004
2,110
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
Kpgraci: Next time you go to your boat, pick a day when you're not going sailing but just want to "mess around on the boat". Hoist the main and crank on the outhaul - pull it as tight as you can. Next, start to ease it off and watch what happens to the bottom 2/3's of the sail as you do so. It develops a belly. Crank back on the outhaul and the belly goes away. Sometimes the description of what a sailor is to do to get a desired effect is confusing. For example, "to REDUCE draft depth, you INCREASE pressure on the outhaul and to INCREASE twist you REDUCE pressure on the boom vang. It always seemed contridictory to me but when you actually see it happeneing it makes sense.

The hardest part of the sail to control is the leech. The luff has a control and so does the foot. The boom vang is used to adjust twist and is also one of the controls for draft position.

The next sail trim control you want to "mess" with on your fun day is the boom vang. Crank the outhaul back to the half way position and tighten the boom vang. From the cockpit, look up the leech of the sail. It should be pretty straight. Now start to gradually release the boom vang and watch the top 1/3 of the mainsail start to open up. The leech is opening up and spilling air.

All it would take is about 15 minutes of playing with the mainsail sail trim controls to see how they work. After you finish with the main, flake it and roll out the jib. The major sail trim control for the jib is the fairleads. The second most important is the halyard. Move the fairleads forward and backwards and watch what happens to the shape of your sail. When the fairlead is in the most forward position, ease the halyard a little bit and see what happens to the draft depth (belly). Move the fairleads forward and back and watch what happens to the twist of the sail.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,241
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
kpgraci, more than one way to decrease leach tension

As you already implied ... leach tension is controlled by the vang and/or the main sheet. Last year we had a very long discussion about easing the mainsheet in a gust, and my take-away from RichH is that easing the sheet (easing leach tension) increases draft depth which is definitely NOT want you want when managing gusts as you probably know because increasing draft depth increases power and heeling.

So I would also believe that easing the vang would similarly increase draft depth. I don't think that increasing twist at the top 3rd of the sail is a condition that implies a reduction in draft at the bottom of the sail, but I would like to hear this explained.

I'm not sure if tightening the leach cord qualifies as "increasing" leach tension. But it seems to me that tightening the leach cord (hooking the sail) may increase draft depth (not that you would want to do that because a flat exit is what you should try to achieve). I'm with you, though. My thought is that it is a contradiction. Opening the leach should be increasing draft depth, closing the leach should be decreasing depth. I'm looking for explanation as well.
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,164
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Change your thinking... visualize OPEN or CLOSE

Rather than increasing or decreasing leech tension, why don't you think of it as opening or closing the leech. When you OPEN the leech(less tension), you allow the upper part of the sail to expand and flare out, the perimeter of the sail is more 3 dimensional... we call this twist... and this expansion absorbs the extra material cut into the sail (draft depth). It's like uncupping your hand.

When you CLOSE the leech (more tension) the top part of the sail is pulled back into a more 2 dimensional plane with the luff... like cupping your hand... however, the extra material cut into the sail(draft depth) is increased because of this constriction.

So think...... OPEN the leech for more twist, flatter sail, less power.... CLOSE the leech for less twist, fuller sail, more power.

BTW..... this is also true with the headsail... execept you use sheet tension and lead position to open and close the leech.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,241
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Except the question seems to be about draft depth ... I'm pretty sure that when we had this discussion about the traveler RichH was saying that opening the leach (easing the sheet) increases draft depth and increases power. That was the reason for using the traveler instead of the mainsheet to change angle of attack.
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,164
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Except the question seems to be about draft depth ... I'm pretty sure that when we had this discussion about the traveler RichH was saying that opening the leach (easing the sheet) increases draft depth and increases power. That was the reason for using the traveler instead of the mainsheet to change angle of attack.
First, let's not confuse the issue by reviving old arguments. There are many published sail trim guides and manuals written by experts out there. kpgraci was trying to understand why easing leech tension flattened the sail... (or decreased draft depth) He then answered his own question, somewhat, with this revelation.....

wait...wait...I'm thinking...
...reducing leech tension increases twist, and if the top of the sail is twisted it can't be participating in depth...so depth is reduced.
is that it?
So, the consensus is that easing the mainsheet removes the upper part of the sail from the draft depth equation... a flattening or depowering move.

I simply suggested another way of visualizing the event... i.e. opening and closing the leech when you change mainsheet tension.

But hey, don't take my word for it... next time you're out sailing... lay out under the boom and look up at the sail... when you close down the leech the sail will have a more cupped shape. When you open the leech it will twist off into a flatter shape. VOILA!!!
 

OldCat

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Jul 26, 2005
728
Catalina , Nacra 5.8, Laser, Hobie Hawk Wonmop, CO
Except the question seems to be about draft depth ... I'm pretty sure that when we had this discussion about the traveler RichH was saying that opening the leach (easing the sheet) increases draft depth and increases power. That was the reason for using the traveler instead of the mainsheet to change angle of attack.
I too have gotten the impression that letting the boom rise is not a good way to depower. The increased draft is more harm than the twist is good. From some of Arvel Gentry's stuff I got the impression that letting the tip (top of sail) stall was not so bad a way to depower - but I need to study that more. If I remember Rich accurately - blade out with the traveller - except I have a very short end boom traveller - so I have to do it with a tight vang and the mainsheet (vang sheeting).

I think what is needed is an adjustable backstay - to control the upper parts of the sail. I just installed one - my 'next step' in sail trim.

OC
 
May 17, 2004
2,110
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
Oldcat: Opening and closing the top 1/3 of the main and jib is a very effective way of depowering the boat. In fact, it's the first step when you feel the boat getting away from you. Opening the top 1/3 of both sails may be all you need to get the boat back on its feet and under control. If that doesn't work, the next step in depowering would be to flatten both sails as much as possible using all the controls for the main and jib that do that job plus easing the traveler to change the angle of attack. This all would be happening very fast as you go from one step to the next. If all that doesn't work then your next step would be to reef. Inducing draft depth (belly) in the main and jib would just serve to power up the boat and in this discussion, that would be counter productive.

A twisted off (open) main and jib is very easy to spot as that is the way 50% of the sailors worldwide sail most of the time. Most advertisement in sailing mags show twisted off mains and jib. I don't know why other than it looks nice. Under normal sailing conditions, a twisted off (open) main and jib are power robbers.

The backstay adjuster won't have any effect on the top 1/3 of the main. If you had a bendy mast (like a J boat) you could control draft depth with the backstay adjuster and use it in conjunction with the outhaul. With a bendy mast you're adjusting the fullness in the middle of the sail by putting it in and taking it out. If your mast is like a telephone pole and you crank on the backstay you'll just induce weather helm as the boat will think you picked up the mast and moved it aft.
 

OldCat

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Jul 26, 2005
728
Catalina , Nacra 5.8, Laser, Hobie Hawk Wonmop, CO
Oldcat: Opening and closing the top 1/3 of the main and jib is a very effective way of depowering the boat. In fact, it's the first step when you feel the boat getting away from you. Opening the top 1/3 of both sails may be all you need to get the boat back on its feet and under control.
OK - But which control to open up the top 1/3 of the main sail? If done by allowing the boom to rise (vang or sheet), then the sail gains draft down low. I am new to having an adjustable backstay - but it appears to be the only control that would have much effect up there.

Inducing draft depth (belly) in the main and jib would just serve to power up the boat and in this discussion, that would be counter productive.
Isn't that why you don't let the boom rise?

The backstay adjuster won't have any effect on the top 1/3 of the main. If you had a bendy mast (like a J boat) you could control draft depth with the backstay adjuster and use it in conjunction with the outhaul. With a bendy mast you're adjusting the fullness in the middle of the sail by putting it in and taking it out. If your mast is like a telephone pole and you crank on the backstay you'll just induce weather helm as the boat will think you picked up the mast and moved it aft.
Even on my "telephone pole" mast - tightening the backstay seems to open the leech. I will say "seems" because I have had only two kinds of wind since I put it on - :eek: and :cry: (lots and almost none). Playing with the backstay today - in almost :cry: wind - the backstay did seem to open up the top of the leech. The backstay definitely reduces headstay sag on my boat.

What I thought I learned from this board: blade out in a gust with the traveller, and don't let the boom rise. Except my traveller is short - so I need to vang sheet, i.e., the vang is twist and draft & the sheet is angle of attack. If I am not way off base - then what else to control the top part of the sail if not the backstay adjuster?

OC

"WEST WINDS 25 TO 35 MPH WITH GUSTS AROUND 60 MPH :eek:
POSSIBLE" - from the NWS - I guess I don't sail tomorrow - too much wind.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,241
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Joe, just as all sail controls are integrated ...

in the way we adjust them, all discussions are related as well. I don't look at it as re-opening an old argument. It's more like a related discussion.

Here is the reference to RichH's discussion:




"The chief ‘control’ of twist is ‘how hard’ one pulls **DOWN** with the MAINSHEET. This puts strain along the leech and ‘twist’ is reduced, the overall sail camber increases with increasing MAINSHEET strain and the resultant is that the sail ‘powers-up’; conversely, easing the mainsheet tension ‘opens’ the leech, allows more twist aloft, can allow flow separation (flow no longer attached) at the head panels which depowers the sail especially in higher windranges which causes less heel, etc. Looking at ‘overtwisting’ in another way: the top of a sail that is ‘overtwisted’ is akin to putting in drastic ‘overdraft’ or so much draft aloft that the flow separates at the area of ‘overdraft’ .... a separation stall under high speed wind flow because the shape is ‘too round’ and the draft ‘way too much’ !!!!
The LIMIT of how much the sail can be twisted is set by the VANG and the Traveler ..... because the traveler can set to be almost directly UNDER the sail which can ‘substitute’ for the amount of mainSHEET tension. Using the traveler is faster and vastly more precise to control the amount of twist.

Setting up the CORRECT amount of twist is to get precise MAXIMUM speed/power out of a sail, is NOT a long term substitute for reefing nor flattening nor for ‘blading-out’ a sail to correct/trim for too much ‘heeling’ moment, etc.

In ‘blading-out’, an adjustment done with solely the traveler – sometimes called “‘playing’ the traveler”, the already set angle of attack ‘all the way up’ through the panels stay essentially the same or unchanged, and the sail begins to ‘stall’ under a uniform manner and at a consistent (and usually predictable) manner along the WHOLE sail.
In contrast, by allowing the boom to rise, when ‘dumping the mainsheet’ to allow more twist at the top, the leech does ‘open’ but also at the same time the lower and MIDDLE panels of the sail become MORE DEEPLY drafted (powered-up). Yes, the top panels are now ‘essentially flogging’ (reducing the heeling moment); but, the center panels are now set up to be in SECOND GEAR deeper draft and thus ‘progressively vulnerable’ to drive the boat further over onto her beam ends, if the helmsman isnt that quick or experienced ..... all set up for a ‘dumping’ if the wind is more powerful than the boat/helmsman can handle ... OR if there is a significant windshift .... because the twist (overdraft) is now down into the middle and lower portions of the panels and they are now at MORE draft than when the 'twist' was set correctly.

“Blading-out” with the traveler doesnt allow the draft to change to a more ‘powered up’ shape, the sail stays flat and is restrained from changing to a ‘powered-up’ shape .... because the boom can’t rise (even ‘rigid vangs’ will have some amount of ‘stretch’). "




My take-away here is that both sides of this discussion are essentially correct. Mainsheet tension tightens the leach and increases camber at the head of the sail. Easing the mainsheet opens the leach and flattens the head of the sail (induces twist) but deepens the draft at the lower sections of the main sail (power-up).
 
May 17, 2004
2,110
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
Oldcat: The most important part of this discussion is the boom vang and twist. I'll deal with mast bend later as I don't want to combine the two. I have to change what I may have implied about the leech - I said the luff and the foot have controls and then went on to say the boom vang adjust twists maybe implying the leech doesn't have a sail trim control. Twist is the adjustment of the leech.

Many times I know what I want to say but my fingers get ahead of my brain and I leave out the reasoning or gloss over it. I set my rigid boom vang at 10 degrees above horizontal. That is my light air setting and since I use the boom vang as my primary twist sail trim control, the twist I prefer is set. I don't like to sail with a lot of twist in the sail because it is a power robber. So the only way I can go from a twist adjustment aspect is to close off the top of the sail by cranking on the boom vang. Therefore I don't think of the boom rising. I think of it as going lower.

When we talk about the boom rising the question becomes how much of a rise. In other words, my rise is set at 10 degrees. I think that if the rise was allowed to go to 20 or 25 degrees, it would certainly open the top 1/3 of the sail but the rest of the sail would be a mess. I use the outhaul as my primary draft depth control. I'm trying to picture what would happen to the draft depth if I let the boom rise as high as it wanted to. I still think the set of the sail would be so out of shape to be ineffective.

You really should try your theory the next timeyour on the water. Crank the outhaul tight and then lift up the boom. See what happens to the draft depth. I think it will remain the same. Then loosen the outhaul and do the same thing and see what happens.

Hope I haven't confused the discussion. Where's Richh, Alan and Joe from san Deigo on this matter?
 

OldCat

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Jul 26, 2005
728
Catalina , Nacra 5.8, Laser, Hobie Hawk Wonmop, CO
Scott,

That is the post from Rich that I wish I had found for this discussion.

If I understand RichH:
1. Let the boom rise to induce twist beyond what the wind gradient calls for and you add draft in the middle of the sail. Hence, power is added and the boat's heeling is harder to control in a gust It also becomes more difficult to keep from flogging the main sail.
2. Set twist for the wind gradient - i.e., so the main leech telltales flow most of the time.
3. In a gust, blade out with the traveller so that draft is not increased in the middle of the sail.

I attached a cartoon sail that I made from a sheet of paper - I think it shows what RichH* was saying about draft INCREASING as twist increases when the boom rises.

OC
*RichH, please correct me if I am missing something.

OC
 

Attachments

OldCat

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Jul 26, 2005
728
Catalina , Nacra 5.8, Laser, Hobie Hawk Wonmop, CO
I'm trying to picture what would happen to the draft depth if I let the boom rise as high as it wanted to. I still think the set of the sail would be so out of shape to be ineffective.
I agree with you here - hopefully my sheet-of-paper cartoon pictures in the post above show the effect that you are talking about here.

OC
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,164
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Scott... we can agree that we differ. I see opening the leech (please note spelling, same as Rich's) as a quick way to depower the sail. I agree that reefing or long term depowering requires a different set of adjustments.

The easiest way to verify your sail trim adjustments is to watch the speedo and feel the tiller.

Old Cat... nice try, I get it. Just remember, the paper is FLAT... sails aren't.
 
Jun 12, 2010
936
Oday 22 Orleans Marina, NOLA
huh...who would have thought sail trim was such a controversial subject. :D I appreciate all of you, what fun!

I started with the premise that Don was right, and I am interested in the basic ABC's at this point. I know from other fields the basics taught at the beginning often are not as black and white at the expert level.

I thought that tightening the vang would flatten and hence depower the sail, but then there is the twist to consider. All the controls need to work together, so outhaul is primarily for draft depth, but in cooperation with the vang/sheet for leech control, and halyard for luff control. It does make sense and I need to experiment.

I do like your approach Don, that there are only 4 things (dd, dp, aoa, t) to control, so the task is to learn what the sail should look like in a given wind and sea condition, then learn what the controls do to get you to that shape. Sounds easy enough, and the best part is I have to go sailing to practice.
 

OldCat

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Jul 26, 2005
728
Catalina , Nacra 5.8, Laser, Hobie Hawk Wonmop, CO
huh...who would have thought sail trim was such a controversial subject. :D I appreciate all of you, what fun!
It is controversial, sometimes :D & sometimes :bang: and sometimes :confused:.

Different authoritative sources sometimes conflict. If you look closely at my paper sail 'artwork' you will notice two sail trim books in the background. Don's and the North Sail book. Don's is easier to start with. As a matter of interest here, the North book states something to the effect that light fast boats vs. "lead mines" need a different approach to blading out vs. twisting off.

I run with my best interpretation of the last half of Rich's wisdom as posted by Scott T-Bird; it seems to work best for me. My boat is no scow or catamaran, but it is not a "lead mine" either. The tell tales are smarter than I am - if they flow - you are close to Nirvana.

OC
True happiness starts at 10% above hull speed :D
 
May 17, 2004
2,110
Other Catalina 30 Tucson, AZ
Ken: As you've seen there is a bit more to sail trim than raising the main and rolling out the jib. The good part is sail trim is not like nuclear research which goes on forever - sail trim is as simple and limiting as riding a bike. In other words, there is just so much to it and that is it. Guys like RichH, Alan, Joe from San Deigo, Stu J and Scott have been at it a long time but they were not born with the knowledge - they learned to trim sails by doing it and those guys are way beyond the beginner level. Sometimes topic info on this forum comes at you as if it was coming out of a fire hose as opposed to bits and pieces!!

I grew up sailing on Narragansett Bay (RI). I don't know how we sailed those boats but we did. Then I got out of sailing and when I got back into sailing I had no idea what I was doing so I took sailing lessons but I didn't know what the instructors were talking about. They started off with an explantion of the traveler or the mainsheet or fairleads but, to me, they put the cart before the horse and left off the most important part - what are all the sail trim controls for the main and jib adjusting in the first place!! Had I been told those facts from the jump I'd have gotten sail trim much sooner than I did.

My goal is that no beginner should have to go through what I did to learn how to sail a silly sailboat. Once I figured out it was draft depth, draft position, twist and angle of attack, the sail trim light went on. I felt that there were a lot of beginner sailors out there like I was and that is why the first chapter in my book is about the 4 elements of sail trim. I tell folks that if you don't understand the first chapter, don't move on until you do.

When you finally digest my book you won't be as good as the guys I mentioned above but you'll know more about sail trim than 75% of the sailors worldwide and you'll have the foundation to get to the level of those guys as you're sail trim skills increase.
 

OldCat

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Jul 26, 2005
728
Catalina , Nacra 5.8, Laser, Hobie Hawk Wonmop, CO
Sometimes topic info on this forum comes at you as if it was coming out of a fire hose as opposed to bits and pieces!!
This particular subject - twist or leech tension to depower - gets more confusing every time it comes up :bang:. There seems to be a different answer from everyone who posts and every source that I read :confused:.

Leech telltales flow: check. Sheet in till they curl, then out till they don't, OK. Make sure that they break together - again OK. Depowering? Everyone has a different answer :bang: :confused:. For my boat - it still seems that Rich's "blade out" "works for me" - but since my vang is not totally rigid - the boom does rise some when I sheet out.

What to do in a gust seems to be the SINGLE most confusing aspect of sail trim. :bang: :confused:.

OC
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,164
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Try to keep it simple. Set your draft depth with the outhaul for the lower third and mast bend for the upper 2/3. Draft position with the cunningham. When sailing upwind, use the mainsheet to set twist, by opening or closing the leech of the main and the traveler to control angle of attack.... when the boom goes beyond the range of the traveler, use the vang to control twist and the mainsheet to control angle of attack.

Contrary to what some have said, I learned that opening the mainsail's leech does very little to affect draft depth on the upper 2/3rds. That part simply rotates to leeward changing it's entry, but the chord depth remains constant because the luff curve is still the same... and that is where the sailmaker cuts the draft, not the leech. At least it is on 35 year old masthead rigs llike my boat.

Go ahead, fire away;
 
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