Gelcoat repair basics

Sep 24, 2018
3,371
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
I'm about to gelcoat a repaired mast step. I have a little bit of experience with it and understand the overall process but I do have a few questions...

Setup
  • Gelcoat with wax
  • Tint kit
  • 404 & 406 filler
  • Styrene
  • Two Preval Sprayers

Questions
  • When thickening, how much does the thickener affect the color? Can 404 or 406 be used as a thickener? I've seen many sites say that the gouge, scratch, etc should be filled and sanded flat before applying gelcoat. This means that the filler and resin is level with the boat's existing gelcoat. Shouldn't there some room be left for gelcoat? This way you would sand the new gel even with the existing instead of sanding through it to make it level
  • Does it need to be thickened for a vertical scratch or small gouge or can this be sprayed?
  • When spraying, is there a limit to thickness? Will it kick faster if it's laid on thick?
  • I assume sunlight affects heat and in turn, cure time?
  • What's the expected time to cure in 85F?
  • Can I recoat if the gelcoat before it fully cures if the gelcoat has wax in it?
  • Any additional tips for applying gelcoat that you've learned from experience?
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,240
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
I've repaired many miles of spider web crack but not into anything of a structural nature. I do know that gel coat is a cosmetic finish and greatly reduces water ingress. As such, its thickness is limited to approx. 0.045" or else you get into cracking. I do not believe adding thickeners to gel coat is a kosher procedure. But hey, what do I know about kosher, I'm not Orthodox.

Check with Danny at Boatworks Today as I think he was making noises about publishing a set of DIY books on fiberglassing. If he does, it would be the platinum standard of all books on fiberglassing.

Post a few pics and let's see what this surgery looks like.
 

colemj

.
Jul 13, 2004
575
Dolphin Catamaran Dolphin 460 Mystic, CT
Gelcoat is never thickened with fillers. Are you talking about making a fairing compound out of gelcoat using fillers? If so, I have done this. It isn't as structurally strong, but for fairing this isn't usually an issue. The advantage is that you get a fairing that is closer to the final color, so it doesn't take as many coats, and any sanding that gets close to breakthrough doesn't show as badly.

You don't want either of those fillers for fairing, as they will turn hard as concrete. Use microballoons to make a softer more sandable fairing.

I do sand the filled area slightly down from the surrounding area, with a taper into the surrounding area. The trick is "SLIGHTLY". If you make a divot, it will look filled when covering it, but you will see it noticeably when it is polished up and the halo around it will be worse. One way to make this more fool-proof is to brush a thick layer of gelcoat into the sanded down area, let it cure, then sand it flat. Then spray gelcoat for the finish. Yes, you will likely sand most of the sprayed gelcoat off, but any imperfections will be filled and it won't have any burn through.

Don't chase perfection here. You almost certainly will see the new/old gelcoat interface halo and be tempted to sand further out to remove it. This will increase your chance of break through, and send you chasing a larger and larger repair.

If you have filled the gouges, you don't need to worry about gelcoat thickness when spraying. You won't spray thick enough to matter. Just spray so that the middle of the repair is higher than the surround, and the edges feather out slightly. It will kick a bit faster when thick, but for the thickness you will be using, this won't significantly change your work time.

Sunlight and heat do effect cure time, but you adjust for this with the ratio of catalyst added. If it is hot and sunny, just stay on the lower 1% side of catalyst.

You can recoat as long as it is still liquid. Once it has gelled, the wax has already risen to the surface and you would be applying over that.

Cure time is dependent on heat and catalyst ratio, but you should probably wait 24hrs before sanding regardless. It will likely be set within 2hrs.

If you have never color matched gelcoat before, this isn't so easy. It takes very little colorant to make big changes, so it is easy to go too far. Mixing small batches is harder than large ones.

If you have any opportunity to spray a larger area from an edge to an edge, or anything that breaks up the visual, then do that rather than a spot repair. You won't notice it as much.

Mark
 

dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
4,380
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
Check with Danny at Boatworks Today as I think he was making noises about publishing a set of DIY books on fiberglassing. If he does, it would be the platinum standard of all books on fiberglassing.

Post a few pics and let's see what this surgery looks like.
I believe that's Andy at Boatworks today.

If he does publish those books, please let us know. I would certainly like to get a copy. My boat needs a lot of cosmetic work ..

Totally agree with posting pictures - much easier to see what's going on....

dj