Gasket sealer for impeller pump - 2GM20F.
- Thread starter Clark
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I've got the same engine/raw water pump
When I open the raw water pump, to inspect or change the impeller, I always put on a new paper gasket. Carefully scrape off the old one, so as not to nick the soft metal of the pump housing. What I then do is drip a bit of biodegradable liquid detergent around the rim of the housing and then lay the new gasket in the that to keep it from moving while I replace the pump cover. You don't need a gasket sealer, IMHO. I also squirt a bit of the same liquid detergent around the blades of the impeller to lube it a bit before it starts sucking up water when I start the engine. Not sure it's needed, but it sure doesn't hurt.
When I open the raw water pump, to inspect or change the impeller, I always put on a new paper gasket. Carefully scrape off the old one, so as not to nick the soft metal of the pump housing. What I then do is drip a bit of biodegradable liquid detergent around the rim of the housing and then lay the new gasket in the that to keep it from moving while I replace the pump cover. You don't need a gasket sealer, IMHO. I also squirt a bit of the same liquid detergent around the blades of the impeller to lube it a bit before it starts sucking up water when I start the engine. Not sure it's needed, but it sure doesn't hurt.
Before You Start
Clark, pardon me if this is something you have already checked but many parts suppliers will fail to ask which 2GM20F you have and provide the wrong parts. Newer euro versions use a Johnson pump which calls for an 'o' ring and a different impeller (uses a set screw & comes packaged with lubricant) than the earlier version. If you haven't already, check before you start. Good luck!
Clark, pardon me if this is something you have already checked but many parts suppliers will fail to ask which 2GM20F you have and provide the wrong parts. Newer euro versions use a Johnson pump which calls for an 'o' ring and a different impeller (uses a set screw & comes packaged with lubricant) than the earlier version. If you haven't already, check before you start. Good luck!
Gasket Idea
No gasket sealer is needed as the surfaces are flat. As posted earlier, oil or grease holds the gasket in place so it doesn't slip. Bolts through the hole of the cover do the same thing too. Should you ever need a gasket and are without one--- You can use the proper thickness of paper (gasket material) and "tap" one out using the cover as a pattern. Use a small ball pien hammer and gently pound around the perimeter and inner hole to make your own gasket. Regular paper is 0.004 thick, I would guess the regular gasket is around 0.015 if that gives you some idea. Cementhead
No gasket sealer is needed as the surfaces are flat. As posted earlier, oil or grease holds the gasket in place so it doesn't slip. Bolts through the hole of the cover do the same thing too. Should you ever need a gasket and are without one--- You can use the proper thickness of paper (gasket material) and "tap" one out using the cover as a pattern. Use a small ball pien hammer and gently pound around the perimeter and inner hole to make your own gasket. Regular paper is 0.004 thick, I would guess the regular gasket is around 0.015 if that gives you some idea. Cementhead
Thanks to all for your input!
I'm pretty sure I have the right gasket/engine combination and will use the soap trick for holding it in place. I've made my own before in my ($$broke$$) youth so that is a nice tip too. Clear Skies and Steady Winds!
I'm pretty sure I have the right gasket/engine combination and will use the soap trick for holding it in place. I've made my own before in my ($$broke$$) youth so that is a nice tip too. Clear Skies and Steady Winds!
When you replace the impeller...
Use a Globe "run dry" impeller. See Defender. Can run dry for 15 minutes.
Use a Globe "run dry" impeller. See Defender. Can run dry for 15 minutes.
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