FWIW Recycled Storm Sail...

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Squidd

.
Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
When I got my boat the 150 Genny was trashed at the head for a good 10'...looked like it had caught the spreaders and shredded the top third of the sail...

I cut loose the head patch and clew patch and saved a good section of material along the leech for miscellaneous projects, sail bags, ditty bags and what nots...But there was too much of the old sail from the tack back, that was in good shape to toss out or cut up, so I "reconstructed" a smaller hank on "storm sail" out of the remenents...

I cut loose the luff rope from the head patch, and pulled it out of the luff sleeve



Then freed up the luff rope from the head/top the sail remnent...



And threaded it back in the original head reinforcing patch, sewed it to the luff sleeve, giving me a continous luff rope and rolled a new leech tape into the body of the sail...



Then I reattached the Clew reinforcing patch to the foot of the sail binding in the foot tape and rolling on the new leech tabling...



I then rolled and sewed a continuous tabling the length of the leech tyeing the head and clew together ...



Finished sail is 10' shorter in Luff and Leach and 5' shorter in foot so I'm hoping it makes a lower more stable head sail to go with a reef in the main for less than favorable conditions...

Worse case I can use it for a nice shade awning off the back of the barn..

My next task will be to clean and whiten the sails to get them ready for the coming season...
 
Sep 2, 2011
1,041
Hunter 27 Cherubini Alum Creek State Park
Well Done!

I plan to do the same to my very old working jib once I get a new one.
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
Thanks...

Did some calcs, maybe on the big side yet...

Sq foot wise it's about 80% of my working jib and 50% of my Genny...but 1/3 shorter than either...so I was hoping it would have less "heeling effect" when deployed...

Maybe not call it a "true" storm jib then, but just a "reefed version" of a working jib...
 

Ted

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Jan 26, 2005
1,279
C&C 110 Bay Shore, Long Island, NY
FWIW Recycled Storm Sail

Recycling a 150% headsail to a storm sail can be problematic. The 150% is made from a much lighter weight material than a storm sail should be. In storm conditions, just when you need the strength the most, it may fail. Reducing square footage is only part of the solution when the wind is up. The amount of draft and it's location are just as important. You'll want a relatively flat sail with the draft more forward. Blown out sails don't have any of the characteristics necessary for a storm sail. Old sails can successfully be made into anchor riding sails though.
 
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May 23, 2007
1,306
Catalina Capri 22 Albany, Oregon
Old sails can successfully be made into anchor riding sails though.
Yup! In my case the head became the clew and I added a couple of grommets for the new head & tack.



The boom tent is a $10 cotton painting tarp cut down to fit. It survived 2 summers. This year I might try using the rest of the old pentex genoa the riding sail came from as a boom tent.
 
Sep 2, 2011
1,041
Hunter 27 Cherubini Alum Creek State Park
The boom tent is a $10 cotton painting tarp cut down to fit. It survived 2 summers. This year I might try using the rest of the old pentex genoa the riding sail came from as a boom tent.
Did you have to waterproof the painter's cloth? I was thinking of using one myself, since it would be a lot cheaper than Sunbrella.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Your sail has a boltrope. Unless you properly 'set' and adjust that boltrope such a sail will be overly flat and will stretch out of shape when excessively windloaded - the purpose of the properly sized boltrope is to prevent that. Without a boltrope or a boltrope that isnt 'shortened/'preloaded' the curved luff entry shape will be too flat and for the higher windranges a relatively minimal draft sail will have little *power* to punch though high waves or extreme chop when sailing upwind. Storm and high wind sails need a 'power shape' (full draft and draft forward) not a FLAT (speed) shape to be effective.
Also, the luff entry shape on a dacron sail is 'broadseamed' ... the panels edges are cut with a smooth taper near the luff and the boltrope resists the loads on these specially cut areas.

Boltropes are typicially cut shorter than the sail's luff length dimension .... usually 1" shorter for each ~10 to 11 ft. of luff length for sailing in a max. wind of 15+kts. then that boltrope is 'fastened' at the top and bottom ends to the sailcloth sleeve with stout waxed sail twine. When raising, such a 'boltroped sail should always be 'additionally stretched out' by the approx. 'preload'/shortened boltrope dimension or the result will be that point of maximum draft will be tooooo far aft and leech will not be FLAT at the exit.
For a purpose built 'high wind sail', I'd set that boltrope 'preload' by cutting that boltrope at least 3/4" per 11 ft. of luff length shorter and then hand stitch with heavy sail twine it to 'sleeve' ends at the head and tack.

I'd add an additional row of stitching on all the panel seams ... can be a 'straight' stitch using heavy (V-92) polyester sail thread, and if this is a 'serious' high wind sail Id add small triangular reinforcement patches at the leech end of each panel seam because thats where 99% of all storm sails fail ... seam stitching at the leech rips out when the sail is unduly flogging during a tack or gybe. Such a sail is usually 'glued' together before stitching ... using PECO double sided 'seam tape'.

Consider to properly reset that boltrope with an appropriate 'preload' / shortening, then when you raise that sail additionally stretch out that boltrope 'preload' so the sail has a 'decent' shape ... you cant 'just raise' a boltroped dacron sail as you should be stretching out the preload or you'll wind up with 'nasty' (draft-aft and hooked-up-to-weather leech) sail shape.

;-)
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
I thought so too since we did that on the Venture cat sail, but when I looked at this luff rope, it was "sewn" in the sleeve the length of the luff and there is no way to adjust or change the preload...so I will have to live with the preload already built in to the luff...

There is a slight "curveature" built into the luff as she sits loosely pulled on the ground, so I assume that will strech out as it's pulled tight with halyard...

And I did use double sided tape when I rolled the leech tabing and then triple stiched...two zig zag and one straight line right on the leading edge of the tabling.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
A length sewn boltrope usually equates to a VERY well made sail; the boltrope is stretched-out prior to the sewing and the 'cloth' is sewn TO the stretched boltrope ... expensive and time consuming to do!

:)
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
Here's the rope



Here's the leech

 
Mar 26, 2011
3,970
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
You know, it will never be a new sail, but it's a great project. I've recut or resized a number of sails, and it beat the hell out of watching television. I once designed and built an a-sail for my beach cat, because they were really hard to find in the 70s. The cost is low and the education value is terrific. I know that If I ever split a sail on a cruise I can bodg it back into something sturdy and shapely with the tools I have on hand. I learned about constructing sails, what can be fixed by stretching and what can't, and where a small dart or tightening a seam can work wonders.

Bravo!
 

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
On the luff its hard to tell from the pic if the internal boltrope is direct sewn to the sail panels ... the wrinkling of the sleeve DEFINITELY shows that the boltrope probably already has the shortening/preload.
Those hanks are probably bronze New Zealand piston hanks ... among the very best plus there is a vinyl protector 'under' the piston hank for excellent chafe protection.

Even if this sail doesnt have 'triple stitching' Id offer that this wasnt a cheapy sail from a asian mail order source but constructed by an 'artist' with extensive high quality offshore sail making experience who took a lot of pride in the work. ;-)
 
May 28, 2009
764
Hunter 376 Pensacola, FL
Yup! In my case the head became the clew and I added a couple of grommets for the new head & tack.
Well now you've really got me thinking! When we bought our H336, it came with an old, worn out spare mainsail. It doesn't appear to have any tears or broken stiching, but it is as soft and pliable as a bed sheet, so I assumed it had no life left. Our boat sails wildly at anchor whenever the wind pipes up, so now you've got me wondering if I could cut the top quarter of the old main off and turn it into a riding sail, and then cut the lower half into an awning. I'd probably still have a couple of dozen square yards left for small things. Hmmmm.
 

Squidd

.
Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
You know, it will never be a new sail, but it's a great project. I've recut or resized a number of sails, and it beat the hell out of watching television. I once designed and built an a-sail for my beach cat, because they were really hard to find in the 70s. The cost is low and the education value is terrific. I know that If I ever split a sail on a cruise I can bodg it back into something sturdy and shapely with the tools I have on hand. I learned about constructing sails, what can be fixed by stretching and what can't, and where a small dart or tightening a seam can work wonders.

Bravo!
Thanks, that's really the purpose of all this...to know the boat in and out and have my hands on everything at least once...The confidence of self reliance and ability to "keep it together"...And if and when I do order new sails..I should have a decent understanding of what I'm talking about...

On the luff its hard to tell from the pic if the internal boltrope is direct sewn to the sail panels ... the wrinkling of the sleeve DEFINITELY shows that the boltrope probably already has the shortening/preload.
Those hanks are probably bronze New Zealand piston hanks ... among the very best plus there is a vinyl protector 'under' the piston hank for excellent chafe protection.

Even if this sail doesnt have 'triple stitching' Id offer that this wasnt a cheapy sail from a asian mail order source but constructed by an 'artist' with extensive high quality offshore sail making experience who took a lot of pride in the work. ;-)
The "donor sail" was definetly a better grade of sail than the "new to me" genny I got off e-buy...heavier material thruout and triple stiching everywhere...the pic shows the bolt rope sewn to the leading edge of luff tape, which I had to cut loose in order to thread it up the empty luff sleeve..then I sewed it back in place around the gromet and down the sleeve..

Definetly has some preload down the length of the luff..

Good exersize overall...now just need to wait for some warmer weather to try out your "cleaning and whitening" formulas to see if I can brighten them up a shade...

I know they will never be "new sails" but they will be looking sharp for older units...
 
May 23, 2007
1,306
Catalina Capri 22 Albany, Oregon
Did you have to waterproof the painter's cloth? I was thinking of using one myself, since it would be a lot cheaper than Sunbrella.
No, I didn't waterproof it. It was primarily used to shade the cabin while the boat was at the dock. It did work out nice for our 3 days in Echo Bay at Sucia as pictured above though.

Part of the reason I only got 2 seasons is that it tore on a seam when I was taking it down while it was wet. I think by then the fibers had been weakened by the sun/rain; it got pretty heavy when it was wet too. One nice thing is that it was thin enough to filter the light and also "breathe". Not sure sunbrella would do that. OTOH, sunbrella wouldn't have to be replaced as often.

The next one I make may have a couple or 3 tent poles to give it more of an arched shape and help keep it out of your hair at the edges. If I can get the Admiral on board (she got a new serger for xmas) I might even design it so there's a tab in the middle that I can connect the main halyard to. That would let me raise it up so it wouldn't actually rest on the main sail cover.
 
Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
No, I didn't waterproof it. It was primarily used to shade the cabin while the boat was at the dock. It did work out nice for our 3 days in Echo Bay at Sucia as pictured above though.

Part of the reason I only got 2 seasons is that it tore on a seam when I was taking it down while it was wet. I think by then the fibers had been weakened by the sun/rain; it got pretty heavy when it was wet too. One nice thing is that it was thin enough to filter the light and also "breathe". Not sure sunbrella would do that. OTOH, sunbrella wouldn't have to be replaced as often.

The next one I make may have a couple or 3 tent poles to give it more of an arched shape and help keep it out of your hair at the edges. If I can get the Admiral on board (she got a new serger for xmas) I might even design it so there's a tab in the middle that I can connect the main halyard to. That would let me raise it up so it wouldn't actually rest on the main sail cover.
I've been using polytarps on my boat for years and they work out pretty good for sun and rain protection but they can be noisy on a windy day. I've been thinking of making a tarp out of Silnylon just to try out. It's a light weight material that would take up less room and it's probably quieter on a windy day. Here's some links on different materials and waterproofing techniques used:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHzZAGqIaV8&list=UUOhrLoJEnTLkrwWNYgYxAPA&index=35&feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koPXL5gXqSY&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dweV_QINTLk&feature=relmfu
 

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