Furling Mainsail Truths Revealed

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Oct 27, 2010
119
E-22 e-22 Stratford
O.k. Now that I have your attention; I wanted to share a story with the group about a visit to a 3 year old Beneteau this morning here in Connecticut on Long Island Sound.
On this forum we have discussed a lot of issues and methods of furling for the in-mast furling mains and I have taken care to point out the importance of the outhaul car being free to slide.
The problem today was that the owner was having difficulties taking the mainsail both in and out…the out required taking the outhaul to the electric winch and at times it would REALLY load up; going back in wasn’t much better. The owner is a long time sailor and had done most things that have been discussed in this forum from time to time.
Here’s what I found and would like to share:
1. We pulled the sail out and it was sticky/tight/hard to pull.
2. Once out, I released the outhaul line and took it out by hand and then pulled 8’ feet of it through the outhaul car and held it my hand. So essentially the car was removed from equation.
3. The owner then furled it in and it went like butter.
4. With the sail in, I walked back and slid the car forward on the track. It rattled, it scraped, and it lightly stuck a few times. The bearings inside the car were dry and not doing their job.
5. I sprayed (using a tube) the inside of the car on the bearings with McLube. Pushed the car along the track and it ran quietly and free. For good measure I sprayed the track, the outhaul blocks, deck sheaves, the sheave at the end of the boom, the block on the outhaul car, the block on the sail (you get the idea).
6. I then had the owner pull out the sail (light wind from our aft quarter, so the worst kind of scenario for furling/unfurling) and it went out with the electric with no problem.
7. Back in and then he tried unfurling by hand…ooh, la, la; PERFECT.
So let me again stress the importance of this and solve the mystery: ANY sticking on the part of the outhaul car will take the furling and unfurling load (which should be fore and aft) and transfer it IMMEDIATELY to the leech of the sail (vertically from clew to head on the sail) and further lock up the car on the track. This is because the load will be trying to pull the car up and not forward.
As soon as this happenes you are trying to pull the mast down from the top, against the forestay WITH your outhaul line. You will load up everything, sails, lines, blocks, winches and to no good.
The moral here? Keep the car clean with fresh water. When dry, BATHE the car/bearings in McLube. Spray the track. Spray the turning sheave at the front of the boom and the one at the back of the boom, the turning block at the base of the mast, the deck sheave, the sheave on the outhaul block on the sail.
Do this on the vang blocks. Do this on the mainsheet blocks. Spray the sail along the foot, both sides to help reduce the friction going in and out.
And then when furling and unfurling make sure the boat is head to wind or with the wind slightly to port…this will relive a lot of chafe/friction of the line going into the worm gear and a LOT of (40-50’ worth) of friction between the sail and the mast.
You will be pleased with the results!

Bob Pattison
NP Sails Int.
 
Sep 20, 2006
2,926
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Bob, very good ideas to check... Thanks for the post.
 

Cwoody

.
Aug 10, 2010
87
Beneteau 37 Galesville, MD
Bob,
I have a conventional main and have found taking a little boom tension off the sail by tightening the topping lift reduces track hang-ups while raising and lowering. Do you think this would this help with furling mains as well?
 
Oct 27, 2010
119
E-22 e-22 Stratford
Cwoody,
Re: topper. Yes, it might, though haven't tried it. It would certainly help to remove any vertical loading on the outhaul car..

b
 
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