Hypothetically speaking...how much do you figure it would cost to refit my 320 with a furling main to replace the standard rig? Is there anyway I could sell my current rig?
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Don't think you'd be happy
Tom: I do not think that you would be happy with the price you'd get for your rig. New stik, boom, sail, rigging and then buy again new. As an alternative why don't you look into an in boom furler. This would give you the advantages of design with the conveinence you are looking for. I have no idea of the cost but it's got to be several thousands less. There is a thread going on the site about this exact feature and I think that there are some brand names mentioned.
Tom: I do not think that you would be happy with the price you'd get for your rig. New stik, boom, sail, rigging and then buy again new. As an alternative why don't you look into an in boom furler. This would give you the advantages of design with the conveinence you are looking for. I have no idea of the cost but it's got to be several thousands less. There is a thread going on the site about this exact feature and I think that there are some brand names mentioned.
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schaefer
i think
i'm not sure but i believe there is a system that can use your existing rig....as for the boom roller you still have to lug that main up the stick...
i'm not sure but i believe there is a system that can use your existing rig....as for the boom roller you still have to lug that main up the stick...
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Doug
Something to thing about
Some things to consider: 1) with in mast furling (like many new boats come with) do not allow you to have a roach because you can't roll up battens. This means less sail area, less pointing ability and performance. 2) there are some things you can add to your current system to make things easier on you like rigid vang (eliminate topping lift), lazy jacks (we have retractable) and most of all and often overlooked is regular cleaning and lubricating of mast track (what a difference that makes in hauling up the main!). good luck
Some things to consider: 1) with in mast furling (like many new boats come with) do not allow you to have a roach because you can't roll up battens. This means less sail area, less pointing ability and performance. 2) there are some things you can add to your current system to make things easier on you like rigid vang (eliminate topping lift), lazy jacks (we have retractable) and most of all and often overlooked is regular cleaning and lubricating of mast track (what a difference that makes in hauling up the main!). good luck
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william
forget it!
I looked into it for my 310, checked out all the furling options.... we're talking upwards of $8K realistically by the time you're done, and you end up with a worse performing sail. Instead I put in a dutchman system and am happy happy. Original lazy jacks sucked, dutchman ne sucke' pas!. Only hassle is the sailcover which becomes a real monstrosity with 3 new zippers in addition to original clasps. Sail goes up and down easily, never gets hung up, stays on the boom and original sail can be used with very minor sewing work. Recommend you have it installed by a dutchman dealer. good luck!
I looked into it for my 310, checked out all the furling options.... we're talking upwards of $8K realistically by the time you're done, and you end up with a worse performing sail. Instead I put in a dutchman system and am happy happy. Original lazy jacks sucked, dutchman ne sucke' pas!. Only hassle is the sailcover which becomes a real monstrosity with 3 new zippers in addition to original clasps. Sail goes up and down easily, never gets hung up, stays on the boom and original sail can be used with very minor sewing work. Recommend you have it installed by a dutchman dealer. good luck!
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Bob Knott
Try this
Since you seem determined to change, though I disagree and prefer the full battens on my 380, why not try this. My dealers always willing to give me all my money back on a trade, provided I buy a bigger more expensive boat so..... Trade in your 320 for a 2001 H340 to be delivered next spring, with the condition that you sail the 320 till seasons end and turn it over to them at the dock. This saves you winterization costs, storage costs, launching and dismasting charges, and gives you a 340 in the water next spring that's new again. I guarantee you it'll cost you less than retro fitting your 320. Your dealer sells a new boat, Hunter sells a new boat, you become a returning customer which Hunter loves to see, and you get what you seem to want. Just a thought... Good Luck Bob Knott H380 owner, formerly H280 owner, see it works! rjknott@mediaone.net PS. No I don't work for Hunter, I just like their boats!
Since you seem determined to change, though I disagree and prefer the full battens on my 380, why not try this. My dealers always willing to give me all my money back on a trade, provided I buy a bigger more expensive boat so..... Trade in your 320 for a 2001 H340 to be delivered next spring, with the condition that you sail the 320 till seasons end and turn it over to them at the dock. This saves you winterization costs, storage costs, launching and dismasting charges, and gives you a 340 in the water next spring that's new again. I guarantee you it'll cost you less than retro fitting your 320. Your dealer sells a new boat, Hunter sells a new boat, you become a returning customer which Hunter loves to see, and you get what you seem to want. Just a thought... Good Luck Bob Knott H380 owner, formerly H280 owner, see it works! rjknott@mediaone.net PS. No I don't work for Hunter, I just like their boats!
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Tom
Bob Knott I like your way of thinking!
I think you may have hit upon the answer! Now I just have to convince the first mate.
I think you may have hit upon the answer! Now I just have to convince the first mate.
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Andy Hansom
movin up
our 380 only has the top 2 battens full length and the lower 2 standard length and never seem to have a problem with dropping. The lazy jacks just kind of catch a wad of sail at the bottom hard to flake. The stay in place sail cover is hard to work with and i have to stand on the arch to put zip it up. We also did what Bob did also. We bought a 340 with the option of trading up within one year 100% money towards a bigger boat. At the end of the year we took the 340 back and got a 380. Andy Hansom Vanishin Point
our 380 only has the top 2 battens full length and the lower 2 standard length and never seem to have a problem with dropping. The lazy jacks just kind of catch a wad of sail at the bottom hard to flake. The stay in place sail cover is hard to work with and i have to stand on the arch to put zip it up. We also did what Bob did also. We bought a 340 with the option of trading up within one year 100% money towards a bigger boat. At the end of the year we took the 340 back and got a 380. Andy Hansom Vanishin Point
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JOE
IN-BOOM FURLING SYSTEM
IF YOU E MAIL ME I'LL SEND YOU INFO ON HI-LOW IN-BOOM REEFING SYSTEM. SAILJMF@AOL.COM
IF YOU E MAIL ME I'LL SEND YOU INFO ON HI-LOW IN-BOOM REEFING SYSTEM. SAILJMF@AOL.COM
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Julian Sandford
furling main-do not!
I trialled a 320 with one of the furling mains. My doubts were confirmed when it refused to furl, and the dealer's man cut his hands pulling so hard. Imagine coming into port in a breeze solo and trying to furl at the dock! It is an accident waiting to happen, and it has NO advantages over the v efficient single line reefing fitted by Selden. A worse sail shape and smaller sail area should convince any doubters!
I trialled a 320 with one of the furling mains. My doubts were confirmed when it refused to furl, and the dealer's man cut his hands pulling so hard. Imagine coming into port in a breeze solo and trying to furl at the dock! It is an accident waiting to happen, and it has NO advantages over the v efficient single line reefing fitted by Selden. A worse sail shape and smaller sail area should convince any doubters!
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Paul Cossman
in-boom v. in mast furling
Julian, what type of furling system did that boat have: in-mast or in-boom mainsail furling? I'm looking at installing a mainsail furling system on my P42, and looking at both. It appears that the in-boom systems are a bit more finicky; i.e., they require a specific boom angle and do not permit reefing with any load on the sail. To the contrary, it looks like the in-mast system permits reefing at any wind angle/speed. Also, do you know whether or not that system was newly installed or whether it had the bugs worked out already? Was the skipper familiar with that system? What brand and model system was it? I'm very interested in your responses because I don't want to install a system that I will be unhappy with. I'd rather stick with the (less than satisfactory) reefing system the P42 came with than install something that creates problems. Thanks.
Julian, what type of furling system did that boat have: in-mast or in-boom mainsail furling? I'm looking at installing a mainsail furling system on my P42, and looking at both. It appears that the in-boom systems are a bit more finicky; i.e., they require a specific boom angle and do not permit reefing with any load on the sail. To the contrary, it looks like the in-mast system permits reefing at any wind angle/speed. Also, do you know whether or not that system was newly installed or whether it had the bugs worked out already? Was the skipper familiar with that system? What brand and model system was it? I'm very interested in your responses because I don't want to install a system that I will be unhappy with. I'd rather stick with the (less than satisfactory) reefing system the P42 came with than install something that creates problems. Thanks.
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Wally Boggus
Selden furling mast
My furling mainsail unfurls and furls like butter, Julian, must have been something adrift in the one you tested. Of course it is mechanical and as a result I expect that a failure is possible. In the event that the sail cannot be furled you can still haul-in the outhaul and lash as much of the main as you can to the mast. As a side note, I have seen a number of non-furling mainsails that could not be dropped due to halyard or guide snags...haven't you?
My furling mainsail unfurls and furls like butter, Julian, must have been something adrift in the one you tested. Of course it is mechanical and as a result I expect that a failure is possible. In the event that the sail cannot be furled you can still haul-in the outhaul and lash as much of the main as you can to the mast. As a side note, I have seen a number of non-furling mainsails that could not be dropped due to halyard or guide snags...haven't you?
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Julian Sandford
main reefing
Paul and Wally My mishap was on a new boat, and probably wasn't adjusted properly. Still it was enough to confirm my doubts. In 30 years of racing and cruising I have never had a halyard jam, but that is probably down to maintenance. In emergency, which is what we are discussing, you can always cut a halyard or shoot the sail out with a flare (joking, maybe). I find the hunter 310 single line reefing and lazyjacks work v well, and still gives me a slim mast and larger sail area.
Paul and Wally My mishap was on a new boat, and probably wasn't adjusted properly. Still it was enough to confirm my doubts. In 30 years of racing and cruising I have never had a halyard jam, but that is probably down to maintenance. In emergency, which is what we are discussing, you can always cut a halyard or shoot the sail out with a flare (joking, maybe). I find the hunter 310 single line reefing and lazyjacks work v well, and still gives me a slim mast and larger sail area.
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