My current furling line tends to bunch up in the drum and bind a little bit, which makes unfurling and furling a little sticker than I would like. Any recommendations on how to efficiently fix this? I believe I have a 5/16 line currently in there. Should I just core a section of it and create more space in the drum that way? Or am I better off just buying a new thinner line as this one is a little tired? Would washing the line help?
Furling line recommendations
- Thread starter skunther
- Start date
I would suggest stripping out the core on the first 15 -20 feet of your furling line. You will still have plenty of strength and with this amount first winding on / off your furler there will be no difference on the portion you handle. For many furlers this is a suggested process. Good luck
New line…. Will make a huge difference.
Mine looked like that, and I had problems with it not rolling into the drum. I replaced the line (same size as was in there), and it worked effortlessly after that.
Greg
Mine looked like that, and I had problems with it not rolling into the drum. I replaced the line (same size as was in there), and it worked effortlessly after that.
Greg
I agree.
But...but...but, that line looks WAAAY TOO BIG for the amount of space in that drum. I have a 34 foot boat with a ProFurl system and use 3/8" line which last I checked is bigger than 5/16" (3/8 = 6/16, right?).
Smaller line is almost a necessity in your case, unless you core for the space limitations you have. Many of us use 3/8" for the "hand" RATHER THAN the strength. As Steve alluded too, strength is not usually an issue, whereas "hand" vs. space available in the drum is what your "deal" seems to be. You might end up with thinner line, so just use a glove when furling.
My furler seems to be the 800, which is rated for 5/16 or 3/8. I wouldn’t imagine the PO would have put oversize line in, but it seems better not to make assumptions. What’s the best way to measure/confirm the line thickness? Put it under load and measure with calipers?
The line looks too loosely wrapped on the drum. Don't let the jib fly freely when unfurling, put some tension on the furling line to get a better wrap. Also check the lead to the drum to ensure it is fair and at the correct angle so the line wraps compactly. The instructions for the furler should specifiy the lead angle. Generally, the line should feed to the middle of the drum and at a right angle to the drum.
If the line is indeed a ⅜" line, replace it with 5/16". that 1/16" makes a big difference in the amount of space it takes up on the drum. Stripping the core would be my last choice.
If the line is indeed a ⅜" line, replace it with 5/16". that 1/16" makes a big difference in the amount of space it takes up on the drum. Stripping the core would be my last choice.
Firstly, do you have too much line on the drum?
When you haul out the sail, how much line is still wrapped around the drum?
One wrap is enough.
Your options are.
1/ De core the line that you have.
2/ Rig with thinner line (5/16)
3/ Rig with de cored new line. (3/8 )
4/ Go high tech with 1/4 dyneema spliced onto 3/8 double braid.
Pros and cons.
1/ Cheap, Can be done today. Will give you an indication of weather decoring is a good idea or not.
Harder to decore older used line.
2/ Cheap. Can be done today. Fast and easy to rig.
Smaller diameter line is harder to handle especially when the wind (and pressure on sails) picks up. I have thin line, but am used to it now.
3/ Probably the correct way to go. Easy to decore new line. A new learning experience. Easy line to handle.
A little more expensive than thin line.
4/ This is what I would do. Strong! Takes minimum space on the drum. A new learning experience. Easy line to handle.
The most expensive and time consuming option. The dyneema will be exposed to UV when sail is furled.
Thoughts.
Cheap Chinese "dyneema" will do the job, so expense can be saved there.
Once you learn to splice dyneema to double braid it opens a lot of options for other lines. (halyards, topping lift etc)
Gary
When you haul out the sail, how much line is still wrapped around the drum?
One wrap is enough.
Your options are.
1/ De core the line that you have.
2/ Rig with thinner line (5/16)
3/ Rig with de cored new line. (3/8 )
4/ Go high tech with 1/4 dyneema spliced onto 3/8 double braid.
Pros and cons.
1/ Cheap, Can be done today. Will give you an indication of weather decoring is a good idea or not.
Harder to decore older used line.
2/ Cheap. Can be done today. Fast and easy to rig.
Smaller diameter line is harder to handle especially when the wind (and pressure on sails) picks up. I have thin line, but am used to it now.
3/ Probably the correct way to go. Easy to decore new line. A new learning experience. Easy line to handle.
A little more expensive than thin line.
4/ This is what I would do. Strong! Takes minimum space on the drum. A new learning experience. Easy line to handle.
The most expensive and time consuming option. The dyneema will be exposed to UV when sail is furled.
Thoughts.
Cheap Chinese "dyneema" will do the job, so expense can be saved there.
Once you learn to splice dyneema to double braid it opens a lot of options for other lines. (halyards, topping lift etc)
Gary
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All good - the only thing I'd say is, I've found while one wrap is enough once you've figured out what that one extra wrap is after bringing that sail in under tension. When you first put it on, I'd give an extra two or three wraps, depending. Then when you have to reef that sail when things are tight, you'll find that initial one wrap is probably not enough. When that sail is wrapped under tension, you need more wraps.
I had to readjust my furler lines on my fore sails a couple times after having to reef them in under high wind conditions.
dj
Thanks for that. I will double check the block placement and line angle being fed to the furler.
I’m planning to pick up some new line tomorrow but want to confirm the length and thickness of the existing line first.
What’s the best way to measure/confirm the current furling line thickness? Put it under load and measure with calipers?
I’m planning to pick up some new line tomorrow but want to confirm the length and thickness of the existing line first.
What’s the best way to measure/confirm the current furling line thickness? Put it under load and measure with calipers?
My furler develops problems with overrides after the line is 3 or 4 years old due to stiffness of the line.. I use 5/16” that is recommended by ProFurl for the size furler that I have. Definitely use gloves or take one wrap of furler line on a winch to provide slight tension on the line to control the coiling on the furler drum when unfurling. Judging from the size of your boat, I would use 5/16” line. It’s difficult to measure line that is several years old because of swelling / fraying.. The appearance of your furler line in the photo indicates that it’s pas time for replacement
You should notice an immediate improvement.
You should notice an immediate improvement.
RE
When you haul out the sail, how much line is still wrapped around the drum?
One wrap is enough.
Well. I got that one wrong.
It should be the other way around.
When you haul IN the sail, how much line is still wrapped around the drum?
I mean when I deploy the sail (unfurl) I have about a foot coming out of the last fairlead block near the cockpit. (That line has a big plastic knob on the end , so easy to grab).
All the rest of the line is on the drum.
When I furl the sail and end up with two wraps of sheet around the furled sail, I am out of line.
So just enough to unfurl and just enough to furl. No more.
I tie two security lines around the furled headsail.
Gary
When you haul out the sail, how much line is still wrapped around the drum?
One wrap is enough.
Well. I got that one wrong.
It should be the other way around.
When you haul IN the sail, how much line is still wrapped around the drum?
I mean when I deploy the sail (unfurl) I have about a foot coming out of the last fairlead block near the cockpit. (That line has a big plastic knob on the end , so easy to grab).
All the rest of the line is on the drum.
When I furl the sail and end up with two wraps of sheet around the furled sail, I am out of line.
So just enough to unfurl and just enough to furl. No more.
I tie two security lines around the furled headsail.
Gary
I wouldn't strip the cover from double braid dacron. The cover is 50% of the strength, and you could be dependent on that when partially unfurled in high winds. I definitely wouldn't strip the cover from that old line.
We use covered dyneema and strip the cover from the drum to just before the clutch. The cover in a core-dependent line provides no strength like it does with double braid dacron. Even a less expensive dyneema blend like VPC or MLX3 can be stripped.
We follow @garymalmgren advice about the amount left on the drum, but we do it by strictly following @dLj advice of making sure the single wrap on the drum occurs only when the sail has been furled as tightly as possible, which can't be done at the dock. We have been caught with sail still out and an empty drum when furling in a breeze that causes a tighter wrap than normal. So for a "normal" or loose wrap, the drum will have 2-3 turns of line left on it.
Mark
We use covered dyneema and strip the cover from the drum to just before the clutch. The cover in a core-dependent line provides no strength like it does with double braid dacron. Even a less expensive dyneema blend like VPC or MLX3 can be stripped.
We follow @garymalmgren advice about the amount left on the drum, but we do it by strictly following @dLj advice of making sure the single wrap on the drum occurs only when the sail has been furled as tightly as possible, which can't be done at the dock. We have been caught with sail still out and an empty drum when furling in a breeze that causes a tighter wrap than normal. So for a "normal" or loose wrap, the drum will have 2-3 turns of line left on it.
Mark
This
All the posts offer good suggestions and tips but @BigEasy 's post points to the main cause. New smooth line will lay smoothly and tighter on the drum than old, rough, swollen line.