23 Rigging
The following is from a post from Jim kolstoe. It was submitted durring a general discussion in Hunter 23 rig tuning and worth a look. I think you may be having trouble due to not starting from an at-rest postion rigging wise. Back off all your turnbuckles a bit befor you stand-up your mast. Also make sure you have stright rigging all the way down to the chain plates. (You wouldn't believe the twisted rigging I seen!) Anyway, Here's Jim's imput and all good. "..set headstay turnbuckle at 1/2 open, then tighten backstay to medium tension. Starting with slight tension on uppers and lowers, check to see that the mast is centered athwartships by hoisting a steel tape to the masthead and measuring to the chainplates. Then tension uppers equally counting turnbuckle revolutions, until you have approx. 1 inch of pre-bend fore and aft. Now tighten the lowers evenly, counting turn buckle revolutions, sighting the luff groove to ensure the mast remains straight athwartships. Then tighten the backstay to a taut postition, about 8-10 turns. Personally, I crank the forestay in 3/4's of the way, and rely on the backstay adjustor for further fore and aft adjustment of the mast as well as controlling draft in the sails. The France mast is just as bendy as the Z-spar. The manual suggests test sailing in 10-12 knots, sighting the luff groove for straightness, and that the leeward shrouds should not be loose. More or less following these directions has worked pretty well for me." A good portion of our previous discussion centered around which mast you have. The above only really applies to the Francespar & Z-Spar masts. Kenyen masts require a different technique explained by Cliff Ruckstuhl in his posts.Good Luck and don't be afraid to experiment.Greg, 23'- Faster