Furler top swivel blowout

[cshawnwilson]

Sailing along nicely on a perfect day in New England, when all of a sudden my jib starts dropping out of the furler channel on the forestay and into the water. "Take the helm Dear!" I fished the sail out of the water, but the top swivel had blown apart and was stuck at the top of the mast (without said sail attached anymore). According to Harken, it is a mid-80s unit so pretty old (like me and the boat). They say I may be able to replace the bearings and get a machinist to clean up the unit, but here's the multiple choice question for you all:

Do I
a) try to revive this top swivel with new bearings etc (more expensive of the cheap options; need four bags of bearings at 32bucks each)
b) get a new top swivel unit that will fit my furler (seems the cheapest option)
c) fully replace the entire furling system (very expensive)

Also, does anyone have experience replacing a swivel like this while the boat is still in the water? Advice or suggestions?

Thanks!
One Sail Short of a Good Trip in New Hampshire

 

[dmax]

b if you like the furler and think it's worth keeping, otherwise c.

 

[heritage]

Same thing happened to me last year with my Hood furler that was manufactured by Harken.
I was able to find most of the bearings, but lost several overboard. My local chandlery had the bearings in stock. I found it necessary to coat the bearings with a water based gel to make them sticky and stay in place while fitting them. Not a complicated job. I think I over tightened the furler's halyard and that put too much stress on the C-clip causing it to pop out.

 

[garymalmgren]

It would help to know the model of the furler.
I will add is a diagram of a Harken MK IV

RE;
Do I
a) try to revive this top swivel with new bearings etc (more expensive of the cheap options; need four bags of bearings at 32bucks each)
b) get a new top swivel unit that will fit my furler (seems the cheapest option)
c) fully replace the entire furling system (very expensive)

a) for $130 dollars plus some more a retaining ring you will have a fully reconditioned top swivel.
In the marine world that is peanuts. Also you will be sure that the swivel fits the foil.
You probably should recondition the lower drum while you have everything apart.

b) I don't see how a new swivel can be cheaper than a recon job. The labor involved (either you or a rigger) will be about the same.

c) Undoubtedly, the most expensive and time consuming option.
That is a big financial commitment for a 40 year old boat. Money probably better spent on sails.

I would go for "C"

gary

 

[cshawnwilson]

It would help to know the model of the furler.
I will add is a diagram of a Harken MK IV

RE;
Do I
a) try to revive this top swivel with new bearings etc (more expensive of the cheap options; need four bags of bearings at 32bucks each)
b) get a new top swivel unit that will fit my furler (seems the cheapest option)
c) fully replace the entire furling system (very expensive)

a) for $130 dollars plus some more a retaining ring you will have a fully reconditioned top swivel.
In the marine world that is peanuts. Also you will be sure that the swivel fits the foil.
You probably should recondition the lower drum while you have everything apart.

b) I don't see how a new swivel can be cheaper than a recon job. The labor involved (either you or a rigger) will be about the same.

c) Undoubtedly, the most expensive and time consuming option.
That is a big financial commitment for a 40 year old boat. Money probably better spent on sails.

I would go for "C"

gary
View attachment 234227

I wish I could read the model information on the drum, but all that is legible now is Harken's name. I found a sailboat parts store online that has some Harken top swivels for $50. I'm thinking as long as it fits the foil exactly and is roughly the same dimensions, it shouldn't matter if it's the exact same model, should it? Wondering if I also overtightened the halyard and maybe that was the cause of the problem. Anyway, thanks very much for all your feedback and diagram info. Super helpful.

 

[jssailem]

I would reach out to Harken and poise your query to them. Perhaps they have info on their product of 40 years ago. The type of construction should trigger information about your furler. Then you could better understand your options.

I have the Harken MkIV 1 on my boat. It has preformed flawlessly since 2017.

 

[colemj]

There are cheaper sources for the bearings. Mauri Pro, Sailrite, and others sell the bags for $16.

But there is nothing special about Harken brand, as they are just 1/4" torlon ball bearings. You can source them from other companies like McMaster or ball bearing suppliers for even less. $35 for all you need to repair it. I get all our replacement torlon bearings for blocks, etc this way.

1/4 in. (0.25) Natural Torlon High Performance Plastic Balls

Polyamide-imides are thermoplastic amorphous polymers that have exceptional mechanical, thermal and chemical resistant properties. These properties put polyamide-imides at the top of the price and performance pyramid. Polyamide-imides are produced by Solvay Advanced Polymers under the trademark...

www.plasticballsupply.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

Mark

 

[garymalmgren]

So Shawn , it looks like
Get the $50 swivel AND order the bearings that Mark has suggested.
Can't go wrong.
I would still do the drum recon.

gary

 

[thinwater]

I doubt all the balls disintegrated at once. Typically as they start, the furler will jam. Is it possible that on of the snap rings came out? If yes, that problem must be solved.

Same thing happened to me last year with my Hood furler that was manufactured by Harken.
I was able to find most of the bearings, but lost several overboard. My local chandlery had the bearings in stock. I found it necessary to coat the bearings with a water based gel to make them sticky and stay in place while fitting them. Not a complicated job. I think I over tightened the furler's halyard and that put too much stress on the C-clip causing it to pop out.

The water based gel is commonly tooth paste. Then wash it out.

I did all of this on my cruising cat with the stick still up. IIRC, I took the bottom loose and slid everything down, holding the mast in place with all of the halyards brought forward (main, jib, chute, and reacher). Much easier than replacing the whole business. The balls came from McMaster Carr . Working great for 7 years until I sold that boat.

 

[jssailem]

I did all of this on my cruising cat with the stick still up.

That is certainly feasible with his boat in a marina slip.

 

[cshawnwilson]

So Shawn , it looks like
Get the $50 swivel AND order the bearings that Mark has suggested.
Can't go wrong.
I would still do the drum recon.

gary

Thanks all! That's what I'm going to do.