Okay, so I'm into my first rewire (79 C38)... I've gotten the DC straight -no problem. The AC however, here's the question; I've got some AC items that can run off the inverter (microwave, computer, tv) and some that can't, (air cond, water heater, on board charger). Of course they all run off shorepower. What is the standard method for combining/seperating these seperate power sources on the same basic circut? I was thinking a relay that, when I plug in shore power, simultaneously breaks off the inverter. So as soon as I unplug its back to inverter. But how do I assure my 12v/120v fridge switches back to 12v rather than inverted 110 in the event of shore power failure? And what about the air and water heater I had running when the shore power stopped and the inverter kicked on? How do I keep those things seperated without manual switches?
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Some answers
Not a big fan a relays... there are marine grade relays available but even so, they are there, they tend to be expensive. It sounds like you already have an inverter - if not, buy one that has an automatic transfer switch - knows when shorepower is available and shuts off. Have 2 circuits - shore 1 and shore 2. Put everything that should not run on the inverter on one side - say shore 2 - and the inverter stuff on shore 1. So your fridge would be on the non-inverter side, and if power fails, would switch back to 12V. All the switches, panels etc. to make this happen are everywhere. Bass Products has best panels.
Not a big fan a relays... there are marine grade relays available but even so, they are there, they tend to be expensive. It sounds like you already have an inverter - if not, buy one that has an automatic transfer switch - knows when shorepower is available and shuts off. Have 2 circuits - shore 1 and shore 2. Put everything that should not run on the inverter on one side - say shore 2 - and the inverter stuff on shore 1. So your fridge would be on the non-inverter side, and if power fails, would switch back to 12V. All the switches, panels etc. to make this happen are everywhere. Bass Products has best panels.
Blue Seas
try their website You at least need a 8132 (or could be 8032) switch to avoid having your inverter and shorepower on at the same time. Stu
try their website You at least need a 8132 (or could be 8032) switch to avoid having your inverter and shorepower on at the same time. Stu
Links to Info'
Take a look at The Cruisers Forum http://cruisersforum.com/index.php?referredid=79 Goto: Power Equipment & Electricity -then- Batteries/Regulators/Monitors at: http://cruisersforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1206 I’ve posted an extensive list of on-line links. Regards, Gord
Take a look at The Cruisers Forum http://cruisersforum.com/index.php?referredid=79 Goto: Power Equipment & Electricity -then- Batteries/Regulators/Monitors at: http://cruisersforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1206 I’ve posted an extensive list of on-line links. Regards, Gord
Suggestion
May I suggest taking the inverter off its automatic switch over in the event of a mains power failure. This means YOU will always know it has happened and can then control which units you run. I have a Heart inverter and operate it this way so there are no nasty surprises.
May I suggest taking the inverter off its automatic switch over in the event of a mains power failure. This means YOU will always know it has happened and can then control which units you run. I have a Heart inverter and operate it this way so there are no nasty surprises.
Should be automatic.
Everyone has a little different view based upon their experience. My own situation could not be simpler. The shorepower AC wiring goes to the Heart Inverter/Charger and from there to the electrical panel. There are three AC breakers, one main and one each for starboard and port outlets(where the first on each leg is a GFCI). Only the air-conditioning has a separate breaker. My microwave, a couple of reading lamps, and a 110V fridge plug into normal 110 outlets. How does it work? If the AC main is on and I unplug the shorepower all AC items lose power. That is automatic with the Heart inverter. If you then decide that you want to use a 110 appliance you have to switch on the inverter. On my boat you press the inverter "button" on the Link 2000. Before I installed the Link it was a switch on the inverter. So check to see if your inverter has this feature.
Everyone has a little different view based upon their experience. My own situation could not be simpler. The shorepower AC wiring goes to the Heart Inverter/Charger and from there to the electrical panel. There are three AC breakers, one main and one each for starboard and port outlets(where the first on each leg is a GFCI). Only the air-conditioning has a separate breaker. My microwave, a couple of reading lamps, and a 110V fridge plug into normal 110 outlets. How does it work? If the AC main is on and I unplug the shorepower all AC items lose power. That is automatic with the Heart inverter. If you then decide that you want to use a 110 appliance you have to switch on the inverter. On my boat you press the inverter "button" on the Link 2000. Before I installed the Link it was a switch on the inverter. So check to see if your inverter has this feature.
Guys,
there's a difference between an I/C and a charger and a separate inverter. Auto switching is great if it's built inside. Otherwise, you need a switch, which can be done manually or by relays and sensors. Keep it simple, please. Thanks, Stu
there's a difference between an I/C and a charger and a separate inverter. Auto switching is great if it's built inside. Otherwise, you need a switch, which can be done manually or by relays and sensors. Keep it simple, please. Thanks, Stu
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