I recently saw an advertisment for a service that "washes out" the fuel tank. Just wondering. Has anyone had this done? What is the process? As one who can only sail occassional weekends this might be a good idea. Comments Please.
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Joel L.
Fuel "washing"
A gent in our marina told us about a product called "Algae-X' (www.Algae-x.net)...a 20 yr old company which makes a magnetic devise which "scrubs" fuel by using a magnetic field to break up the composition of microbic agents which grow in fuel. I then saw it at the Annapolis Boat show and have their literature, and am buying one...no maintenance, lifetime waranty, as big as your palm, fuel line in one end, out the other...simple and apparently effective. A bit over $100
A gent in our marina told us about a product called "Algae-X' (www.Algae-x.net)...a 20 yr old company which makes a magnetic devise which "scrubs" fuel by using a magnetic field to break up the composition of microbic agents which grow in fuel. I then saw it at the Annapolis Boat show and have their literature, and am buying one...no maintenance, lifetime waranty, as big as your palm, fuel line in one end, out the other...simple and apparently effective. A bit over $100
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George Kornreich
Tank crud.
Eventually most diesel tanks collect crud, which lives on the bottom but gets sturred up when the boat is in action. There is a process called fuel polishing (don't know where they got that term) whereby the fuel is pumped out of the tank, ran through a filter a time or two and put back in. Also, if the tank bottom is cruddy it can be cleaned out when the tank is emptied. I saw a fuel polishing unit for rent in one of the local marine stores. I'd consider doing this if the Racor filter is picking up a lot of junk, an indication of dirty fuel/tank. Our sailboats are rather prone to this as they often go a season or more on a tank of fuel, so the fuel, even with the proper additives, has a chance to go breed algae, and the situation is made worse by the buying a bad batch of fuel in the first place.
Eventually most diesel tanks collect crud, which lives on the bottom but gets sturred up when the boat is in action. There is a process called fuel polishing (don't know where they got that term) whereby the fuel is pumped out of the tank, ran through a filter a time or two and put back in. Also, if the tank bottom is cruddy it can be cleaned out when the tank is emptied. I saw a fuel polishing unit for rent in one of the local marine stores. I'd consider doing this if the Racor filter is picking up a lot of junk, an indication of dirty fuel/tank. Our sailboats are rather prone to this as they often go a season or more on a tank of fuel, so the fuel, even with the proper additives, has a chance to go breed algae, and the situation is made worse by the buying a bad batch of fuel in the first place.
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Guest
Algae-X Warning
Practical Sailor Magazine evaluated the Algae-X device last year and found it to be totally worthless.
Practical Sailor Magazine evaluated the Algae-X device last year and found it to be totally worthless.
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Rex
...Worthless
Several rather reliable sources have concluded the Algea X is completely worthless. Save your money.
Several rather reliable sources have concluded the Algea X is completely worthless. Save your money.
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Michael Cohn
Right, of course...
I have a BIG magnet on the piping of my koi pond which a guy gave me to "stop algae from forming" - it has never done anything except put some extra weight on my piping. I still get lots of algae. I'll sell it to you for 25 bucks if you really want it. MC
I have a BIG magnet on the piping of my koi pond which a guy gave me to "stop algae from forming" - it has never done anything except put some extra weight on my piping. I still get lots of algae. I'll sell it to you for 25 bucks if you really want it. MC
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tobe
dirty fuel
have newly aquired a 78 h33 with nasty fuel which clogged raycor 2micron filter/separator. was introduced to bio-boar for algie growth and siloo(nappa auto store)diesel injector cleaner, heavy duty. the engine runs much smoother and easier to start. the 2micron filter also keeps the engine filter much cleaner, less maintenance.
have newly aquired a 78 h33 with nasty fuel which clogged raycor 2micron filter/separator. was introduced to bio-boar for algie growth and siloo(nappa auto store)diesel injector cleaner, heavy duty. the engine runs much smoother and easier to start. the 2micron filter also keeps the engine filter much cleaner, less maintenance.
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Mickey McHugh
Is 2 Micron Too Much
I recently was on a new '99 450 that had to abort a cruise offshore to due it's primary 2 micron filter not allowing enough fuel to the engine. My '97 40.5 uses a 10 micron primary filter and I have never had a problem (knock on teak). After 380 hours on the engine I guess its time to change the filter. Should I use a 2 micron?
I recently was on a new '99 450 that had to abort a cruise offshore to due it's primary 2 micron filter not allowing enough fuel to the engine. My '97 40.5 uses a 10 micron primary filter and I have never had a problem (knock on teak). After 380 hours on the engine I guess its time to change the filter. Should I use a 2 micron?
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Rich Stidger
I Use 2 Micron
I use a 2 micron on both my 50hp Volvo ('97 40.5) and my Westerbeke genset. No problems, both have over 200 hours. I plan on a change at the beginning of the next season.
I use a 2 micron on both my 50hp Volvo ('97 40.5) and my Westerbeke genset. No problems, both have over 200 hours. I plan on a change at the beginning of the next season.
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Ron Hughes
Fuel filters, 2 or 10 micron?
Mickey, the filter on the side of your engine (Yanmar I assume) is a 2 mic. If you use a 10 as your primary, you must replace your engine mounted filter(secondary) every time you replace your primary. If you use a 2 mic. as a primary, you will stop everything before it gets to your engine filter. I have installed 2 Racors with the clear bottoms with valves to allow me to select either one if the other becomes clogged. If they were 10mic I would have to be redundent at the engine too in order to keep the fuel system switchable in an emergency. I switch one of my big Racor's spin-on filters each fall and so don't have to worry about fuel problems at all. I am planning to add a remote pressure sensor(gauge at the helm) installed in-line after the filter manifold which will allow me to tell when my fuel pump is having to "pull" harder to get fuel, announcing the time to switch filters before the engine quits at just the wrong moment. Good Luck! Ron Hughes S/Y Best Revenge
Mickey, the filter on the side of your engine (Yanmar I assume) is a 2 mic. If you use a 10 as your primary, you must replace your engine mounted filter(secondary) every time you replace your primary. If you use a 2 mic. as a primary, you will stop everything before it gets to your engine filter. I have installed 2 Racors with the clear bottoms with valves to allow me to select either one if the other becomes clogged. If they were 10mic I would have to be redundent at the engine too in order to keep the fuel system switchable in an emergency. I switch one of my big Racor's spin-on filters each fall and so don't have to worry about fuel problems at all. I am planning to add a remote pressure sensor(gauge at the helm) installed in-line after the filter manifold which will allow me to tell when my fuel pump is having to "pull" harder to get fuel, announcing the time to switch filters before the engine quits at just the wrong moment. Good Luck! Ron Hughes S/Y Best Revenge
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