Fellow H37c owners: I'm getting a machine shop to make me a couple of 6" aluminum inspection ports for openings I'm going to put into the top of my fuel tank so I can get in there and clean it out. Before I give them the order, I'd be happy to have them make extras if anyone is interested. Don't know the price yet; I just sent them the specs today. John Reid Cheese 'n Crackers john.patti.reid@juno.com
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Ed Schenck
Definitely interested John.
Need to know price naturally. But more importantly what will be unique about these cleanout ports? I can't remember whether it was on HOW or an e-mail where Gene Greunder explained how he beefed up the tank and drilled and tapped about a hundred screws for his ports. Ed(schencked@bfusa.com)
Need to know price naturally. But more importantly what will be unique about these cleanout ports? I can't remember whether it was on HOW or an e-mail where Gene Greunder explained how he beefed up the tank and drilled and tapped about a hundred screws for his ports. Ed(schencked@bfusa.com)
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Sam Lust
Lexan
Make ports out of Lexan Polycarbonate plastic. I used 1/2"w for a 6" diameter fuel tank port. Allows me to peer inside without disassembly. Has worked fine for two seasons so far. If interested I can post pictyres and details. samlust@monmouth.com
Make ports out of Lexan Polycarbonate plastic. I used 1/2"w for a 6" diameter fuel tank port. Allows me to peer inside without disassembly. Has worked fine for two seasons so far. If interested I can post pictyres and details. samlust@monmouth.com
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John Reid
Lexan sounds interestin
Sam, Thanks for the info and your offer. I'd like very much to see / read how you did your inspection ports. I don't know much (anything) about Lexan Polycarbonate. It's tough enough and not subject to diesel making it brittle (the way diesel does with regular plastic)? Thanks, John Reid Cheese 'n Crackers john.patti.reid@juno.com
Sam, Thanks for the info and your offer. I'd like very much to see / read how you did your inspection ports. I don't know much (anything) about Lexan Polycarbonate. It's tough enough and not subject to diesel making it brittle (the way diesel does with regular plastic)? Thanks, John Reid Cheese 'n Crackers john.patti.reid@juno.com
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Charlie Corbitt
Interested
I've been considering adding fuel tank cleanouts. Would like to see a drawing and price of yours.
I've been considering adding fuel tank cleanouts. Would like to see a drawing and price of yours.
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red coles
Fasteners
Hello John: Thought I would include this hint for fastening cover . Make cover overlap by 1/2", drill small 1/16" pilot holes around circumference. This is the good part, get some 10/24 1" SS screws, drill and tap pilot holes in tank for same. Now insert the SS bolts into the tank from the underside, so that only the threaded portion sticks up. Drill your cover to fit these bolts, fasten with nut of choice. Now you don't have to worry about stripping the aluminum tank srew holes in the future. Good luck red
Hello John: Thought I would include this hint for fastening cover . Make cover overlap by 1/2", drill small 1/16" pilot holes around circumference. This is the good part, get some 10/24 1" SS screws, drill and tap pilot holes in tank for same. Now insert the SS bolts into the tank from the underside, so that only the threaded portion sticks up. Drill your cover to fit these bolts, fasten with nut of choice. Now you don't have to worry about stripping the aluminum tank srew holes in the future. Good luck red
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Ed Schenck
Gentlemen, how to seal?
I recall that Gene Greunder had a difficult time getting a good seal. He used a metal on metal cover. I never have that much fuel that it should reach the inspection plate but what if it does? The Lexan approach with Red's bolt-on idea sounds excellent. IF we can get a good seal. As an aside, do we know that there is just one baffle on the H37C? And that it is approximately at the pickup?
I recall that Gene Greunder had a difficult time getting a good seal. He used a metal on metal cover. I never have that much fuel that it should reach the inspection plate but what if it does? The Lexan approach with Red's bolt-on idea sounds excellent. IF we can get a good seal. As an aside, do we know that there is just one baffle on the H37C? And that it is approximately at the pickup?
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Gene Gruender
baffle, sealing, etc.
I have gotten a good seal by using silicon, the normal tube stuff. Permatex didn't get it, it leaked. I think the silicon works because it is a rubber compound and swells when it gets oil products on it, making it an even tighter fit. I'm sure there are other methods, let us know if you figure them out. There is one baffle, it runs crossways a little forward of the middle of the tank. If you are going to install only one cleanout, I'd center it about a foot from the front of the tank. The place that needs cleaning the most is right under the gauge. If you are going to install 2, the second should go about in the center of the back half. With two, you can clean the entire tank. The sludge in the lowest place, right under the gauge, can eat a hole in the tank if it stays there.
I have gotten a good seal by using silicon, the normal tube stuff. Permatex didn't get it, it leaked. I think the silicon works because it is a rubber compound and swells when it gets oil products on it, making it an even tighter fit. I'm sure there are other methods, let us know if you figure them out. There is one baffle, it runs crossways a little forward of the middle of the tank. If you are going to install only one cleanout, I'd center it about a foot from the front of the tank. The place that needs cleaning the most is right under the gauge. If you are going to install 2, the second should go about in the center of the back half. With two, you can clean the entire tank. The sludge in the lowest place, right under the gauge, can eat a hole in the tank if it stays there.
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