Another take on inspection port
I did the inspection port on the 20 gallon aluminum tank in my 33 a little differently. I was able to get the tank out with a minimum of cutting. Only an inch off the fill barb -- not anything to worry about. I cut a 6 inch hole in a spot where the space was available and would enable me to peer in once the tank was back in place. The cover itself is 1/2 inch thick Lexan Polycarbonate. Now here's where it gets a little tricky, and I display my typical overkill. I used 12 1/4-20 bolts to secure the cover, but rather than relying on threads cut into the fairly thin gage aluminum to hold the plate, I threaded the bolts in from the inside, leaving what are in effect "studs" sticking out from the surface of the tank. I used Permatex blue form-a-gasket. I discovered a tiny bit goes a long way. Plain nuts over flat washers (all hardware is stainless) completes it. Pull down all the nuts in a rotating pattern and it's done.The point here is, among other things that, after that many years, in my case about 16, there is bound to be a good solid layer of munge. I had a 3/4" layer of nasty garbage and discolored slime on the walls. As I got the boat from the previous owner the tank was filled with 8 gallons of black fuel, 8 gallons of water, and a gallon or 2 of black goo. I scrubbed it out with everything I could think of, rinsed thoroughly with water and sun dried for hours.I have no leaks from the inspection plate, and no more problems with bacterial growth or water blocking my filters and stopping my engine, and I can get a good idea of the condition of the interior of the tank. Just to complicate matters, I made up a new fuel pickup tube which goes through the new plate and picks up fuel from dead center instead of all the way to one side. Less worry about sucking air when the power boats wake and roll me while I'm under power at the mouth of our river. But that's a subject for a whole different post.