As the weather improves and spring gets closer, I am doing some serious thinking about how to add a cleanout port to the fuel tank on my H34. I have looked through the archives thouroghly and it seems there are 2 ways I might make a cover for the opening. The tank is poly and has developed bout 3/8 of a convex dish in the top. It is of course hard to get to and inconvenient to work on. The first would involve either 1 or 2 probably metal ( stainless or aluminum) frames and a rectangle of probably Lexan and preferably clear. I would envision tapping the lower frame and threading 10/32 bolts up from the bottom and installing this frame inside the tank with a gasket ,with the studs facing up and through holes in the tank.On the top ( and outside) of the tank I would put another gasket ( I probably would use some sort of automotive, diesel resistant gasket material like Permatex)then the clear cover then the other frame piece. I would then tighten down with probably acorn nuts with locking inserts. One of the concerns I would have would be that the curvature in the tank top makes it hard to get a good seal- thus the two piece metal frame to draw it flat. Disadvantages in this method- more work cutting the frames and drilling. I would have to cut with a cutting wheel and finish with filing. Also more time down in the tight quarters drilling and making sure holes line up. I am concerned with getting a good seal on the first frame with the curvature of the tank top. Second method is simpler- use a thinner plastic- probably 1/8 or maybe 3/16 and simply screw it down on the outside over the opening - using the same gasket material and SS screws self tapping with washers into smaller dia holes in the tank.This method would have the cover adapt to the curvature of the tank. Probably is not as strong but I think the sale would be better What are your opinions? It looked from the archives that both methodologies had been used. Anyone used a similiar approach and had several years of success or conversly any failures seen? Any information/experience will help before I commit myself by cutting!
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Try this
I don't know if will fit your application but there is a company that sells various size metal inspection ports for fuel and other tanks. They are round and come in 6", 8", 10", 14" and 21" diameters. Check out their web site (see link) for details and installation.
I don't know if will fit your application but there is a company that sells various size metal inspection ports for fuel and other tanks. They are round and come in 6", 8", 10", 14" and 21" diameters. Check out their web site (see link) for details and installation.
I have an idea that doesn't involve saws.
Please keep an open mind here. Use as much fuel as you can first, or pump it off. Now fill the tank full with BioDiesel B100. and run a pump with a filter/seperator for about an hour per galon of fuel. Keep a couple extra filters handy, they'll plug up qiuckly. Then reconect your system with a new filter and burn off the biodiesel. B100 is an excelent solvent, it'll clean a tank out nicely. The negative to this is it needs to be warmish outside. B100 will start to gel at 35'F. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
Please keep an open mind here. Use as much fuel as you can first, or pump it off. Now fill the tank full with BioDiesel B100. and run a pump with a filter/seperator for about an hour per galon of fuel. Keep a couple extra filters handy, they'll plug up qiuckly. Then reconect your system with a new filter and burn off the biodiesel. B100 is an excelent solvent, it'll clean a tank out nicely. The negative to this is it needs to be warmish outside. B100 will start to gel at 35'F. Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
I've not used Pat's method because
I didn't know about it back when I did the work you describe. First off, I think you're over-thinking the problem. You're overly concerned about the curvature of the tank top too. And you might also be worried about the ability of diesel to corrode and/or leak. Don't be. When I did this job I was anchored off Balboa at the Panama Canal. We had been hit by lightening and everything was dead except the inverter. (maybe a couple of other things) The fuel was dead too because of Costa Rica. I removed the inspection port from below the anchor locker and grabbed my trusty Sears saber saw. Cut a hole in the top of the tank and cleaned it out. Secured the port with silicone and stainless sheet metal screws. The tank top conformed to the cover. To this day I'm using a plastic cover on that hole and it doesn't leak. Even if it did, hey it's diesel. You're not going to blow up. Relax, enjoy, have fun. P.S. I had a plugged fuel pickup too. No way to circulate fuel with a pump.
I didn't know about it back when I did the work you describe. First off, I think you're over-thinking the problem. You're overly concerned about the curvature of the tank top too. And you might also be worried about the ability of diesel to corrode and/or leak. Don't be. When I did this job I was anchored off Balboa at the Panama Canal. We had been hit by lightening and everything was dead except the inverter. (maybe a couple of other things) The fuel was dead too because of Costa Rica. I removed the inspection port from below the anchor locker and grabbed my trusty Sears saber saw. Cut a hole in the top of the tank and cleaned it out. Secured the port with silicone and stainless sheet metal screws. The tank top conformed to the cover. To this day I'm using a plastic cover on that hole and it doesn't leak. Even if it did, hey it's diesel. You're not going to blow up. Relax, enjoy, have fun. P.S. I had a plugged fuel pickup too. No way to circulate fuel with a pump.
What - me overanalyze a problem!! Fred how could y
What ever gave you that idea, Fred? seiously- it is the kind of job that doesnt give you any way of restoring to earlier condition if something does not work, Plus it is damn uncomfortable in that starboard side locker( wherethe original tank is on a H34) I am happy to hear that a simple cover screwed down and siliconed will hold- that is the kind of thing I want to do. I have looked at the Sea built cover, by the time I get that into Canada and pay the govt it usurious (sp?) share that will be 200 $cdn Nice solution tho- JC suggested it awhile back when I asked some early stage questions I had thought of your solution Pat, but I dont have a pump or a filter to use and it NEVER gets warm here before we launch- this is a job that is easier- the pumping out- on the hard Keep the thoughts comming and thanks
What ever gave you that idea, Fred? seiously- it is the kind of job that doesnt give you any way of restoring to earlier condition if something does not work, Plus it is damn uncomfortable in that starboard side locker( wherethe original tank is on a H34) I am happy to hear that a simple cover screwed down and siliconed will hold- that is the kind of thing I want to do. I have looked at the Sea built cover, by the time I get that into Canada and pay the govt it usurious (sp?) share that will be 200 $cdn Nice solution tho- JC suggested it awhile back when I asked some early stage questions I had thought of your solution Pat, but I dont have a pump or a filter to use and it NEVER gets warm here before we launch- this is a job that is easier- the pumping out- on the hard Keep the thoughts comming and thanks
Pat of Inland Marine...
can you expand on your suggestion above a little, for those of us mechanically illiterate?!? How are you suggesting to run/filter the fuel? 2 hoses in/out of the fuel fill with a pump/filter arrangement? It's pulling the remaining fuel/B100 in and out and filtering it in the process. Or a loop from the engine intake side of the system (say before my Racor) through some sort of independent filter and back into the fuel fill? Can you point to a weblink of the kind of "inline filter" you are referring to? Or something else? This sounds like a mangeable way to do a clean up, which my boat definitely needs. Thanks.
can you expand on your suggestion above a little, for those of us mechanically illiterate?!? How are you suggesting to run/filter the fuel? 2 hoses in/out of the fuel fill with a pump/filter arrangement? It's pulling the remaining fuel/B100 in and out and filtering it in the process. Or a loop from the engine intake side of the system (say before my Racor) through some sort of independent filter and back into the fuel fill? Can you point to a weblink of the kind of "inline filter" you are referring to? Or something else? This sounds like a mangeable way to do a clean up, which my boat definitely needs. Thanks.
Don,
I'm sugesting buying a cheap electric fuel pump at AutoZone. Another Racor with a 2mcn element, I realy like the 220, 230 and 500 series for this. There are other filters like the Goldenrod, available at Tractor Supply that will work. Run a simple loop from the output of the fuel tank (at the tank) to the filter, then pump it back in using the return on the tank. This is realy a crude fuel scrubber, it'll work especialy if you do a B100 scrub. One warning, don't use rubber hose. Get PVC or vinyl, rubber breaks down with B100 Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
I'm sugesting buying a cheap electric fuel pump at AutoZone. Another Racor with a 2mcn element, I realy like the 220, 230 and 500 series for this. There are other filters like the Goldenrod, available at Tractor Supply that will work. Run a simple loop from the output of the fuel tank (at the tank) to the filter, then pump it back in using the return on the tank. This is realy a crude fuel scrubber, it'll work especialy if you do a B100 scrub. One warning, don't use rubber hose. Get PVC or vinyl, rubber breaks down with B100 Pat McCartin Inland Marine Diesel Buford, Ga imd_ga@hotmail.com
fuel polisher
I built esentially what Pat's suggesting, using a spare racor 220 (don't ask) and a wm utility pump rated for diesel. used vinyl hose and a large pail as a housing(from ice melt, like the large wallboard compound or Home Depot pails) it does a great job-slow, but i put the two hoses in the tank and let it run. it's also useful for transferring fuel from gerry cans into the tank.
I built esentially what Pat's suggesting, using a spare racor 220 (don't ask) and a wm utility pump rated for diesel. used vinyl hose and a large pail as a housing(from ice melt, like the large wallboard compound or Home Depot pails) it does a great job-slow, but i put the two hoses in the tank and let it run. it's also useful for transferring fuel from gerry cans into the tank.
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