Fuel Gauge Type?

[Tally Ho]

That is not a photo of my panel, and honestly, I don’t know if mine has that toggle on it.

If it does, I do know I have never used it!

Probably turns on a magic fuel gauge that we never knew was on the panel.

Greg

 

[AlastairLC]

LOL!
I found a better picture. It says “Illumination: on, off, check”
As I don’t sail at night, I wouldn’t need that, but I’ll check to see if that’s what it does. Bulb's probably burned out though.

 

[Tally Ho]

Funny, maybe mine has it too. I sail at night som, but don’t generally need to see the engine panel.

Greg

 

[JimInPB]

This shows the bolt hole pattern -
http://www.wemausa.com/instructions/sending_unit_gasket_hole_pattern.shtml
Like Gene said, the holes are not evenly spaced. The size of the drilled holes varies a little from one manufacturer to another, but the pattern should be the same on all of the US style senders.

There are two different electrical configurations of sender/gauge on boats. There is the US standard & the European standard. Electrically, the way that the resistance moves going from full tank to empty is backwards between the two. I don't remember the actual ohm ranges. I don't remember if the European senders use the same bolt pattern or not.

If the gauge works more or less backwards, you may have a wiring problem or you may have a mismatched component.

 

[walmsleyc]

I was able to put my digital meter on the gauge, and move the marker around with a magnet and the ohms changed. Looks like it is working pretty well, so will get an electronic gauge and mount it.

Is there an easy way to get power from the engine control panel for the electronic gauge. I would only want it on when the engine key is in run position.

I have a Yanmar 2GM20 and the panel looks pretty close to this one...
https://goo.gl/images/y2FjiJ

Greg

There's not usually a lot of spare wire length behind the panel, but I was able to cut the wire coming off the back of the key switch that is live only when the key is on, and use a "step up" butt connector to splice in a power lead to run to the the gauge. I did the same for the backlight for my new fuel gauge (from the panel light switch). I then unscrewed the buzzer from the panel, zip tied it to some wiring in behind the panel to keep it safe and installed a new fuel gauge in hole where the buzzer was. The Buzzer is so loud on it's own, I can hear it just fine when it's behind the panel.

Chris

 

[Tally Ho]

There's not usually a lot of spare wire length behind the panel, but I was able to cut the wire coming off the back of the key switch that is live only when the key is on, and use a "step up" butt connector to splice in a power lead to run to the the gauge. I did the same for the backlight for my new fuel gauge (from the panel light switch). I then unscrewed the buzzer from the panel, zip tied it to some wiring in behind the panel to keep it safe and installed a new fuel gauge in hole where the buzzer was. The Buzzer is so loud on it's own, I can hear it just fine when it's behind the panel.

View attachment 157381

Chris

Neat idea.

Thanks Chris.

Greg

 

[AlastairLC]

Transplant operation a success!
Before:

After:

Now I can read it!

 

[walmsleyc]

Much better!!!

Chris

 

[AlastairLC]

Thanks walmsleyc (and Gene) for identifying the part.

 

[Tally Ho]

That looks great @AlastairLC .

Can you share where you sourced the new gauge (and part # or something).

Greg

 

[AlastairLC]

Sure, Greg.
Moeller Marine Mechanical Fuel Tank Sender (10" Deep Tanks) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MTCRAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kNOYBb5H9RZZ5
is the whole thing. You can get just the dial, but as I said I could not separate the old one so I just replaced the whole thing.
It doesn’t say so but it comes with a gasket, so you don’t need to order that.
Save your existing five bolts because the new ones are different.

 

[AlastairLC]

Oh, I assume the depth of your tank is the same as mine. There are different models for different depths.

 

[Gene Neill]

 

[Tally Ho]

Ok. I don’t need a new in-tank gauge. Just the dial.

I am thinking about 1) just a new visual-read gauge or adding the electronic gauge at the engine control panel.

Truthfully, I don’t burn a tank of diesel in a season usually, so not a lot of reason to do anything.

But a new direct read gauge is a cheap, easy upgrade.

Greg

 

[AlastairLC]

In my opinion, the low rate at which we burn fuel doesn’t warrant a control panel display. I’m into the lazarette continually anyway to stow gear, so an occasional peek at the (now readable) dial is all I need to do.

 

[AlastairLC]

I don’t need a new in-tank gauge. Just the dial.

Here’s the link for that, but make sure you can detach your old one before you order. (I couldn’t.)
Moeller Marine Mechanical Direct Sight Fuel Tank Read Capsule https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MTCRBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vt2YBbT727WBM

 

[Tally Ho]

Mine came out fine, and I rested the resistance and it seems to be working. Biggest reason to hook up a remote electric gauge is I can’t see the one on the tank once I put stuff in the lazzarette.

But the new gauge would be a big improvemen.

 

[Tally Ho]

Just a quick update.

I purchased this fuel gauge and hooked it up last weekend...works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-F...5&s=gateway&sprefix=Fuel+gauge,aps,156&sr=8-3

I have an hours meter mounted in the lazzarette, and will mount the fuel gauge next to it. I can pull power from the hours meter when the key is on.

Really happy with this.

Greg