I recently purchased a 1988 cat 30, and have been using this time to get to know my boat. I need to replace cooling lines from the heater, and fuel lines, and filters. My engine is the 25XP with the primary fuel filter a Racor 24s and the on engine filter the Universal 298854 recommended by Torresen Marine. Although the PO said he has never had fuel problems, I want to replace the filters, and it would seem that the Racor 24S would not be the best as the primary. This is based on what the Torresen Universal site has to say about fuel filters. I need some recommendations on the correct primary fuel filter.
Fuel filter questions
- Thread starter sol y mar
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Stick with what you have
There've been debates through the ages about the "proper" micron sizing for primary and secondary filters. Much of it has great merit. But we use what you've described and it's worked on our boat for its 22 years, 12 of them ours. We have an M25, pretty much the same engine. Here's some bleeding information for you: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2884.0.html
There've been debates through the ages about the "proper" micron sizing for primary and secondary filters. Much of it has great merit. But we use what you've described and it's worked on our boat for its 22 years, 12 of them ours. We have an M25, pretty much the same engine. Here's some bleeding information for you: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2884.0.html
If it were me
If it were me, and I were going to change it anyway, I'd go to the 24T which is 10 micron vs. 2 micron. It fits the same head and is the same filter only in a 10 instead of 2..
Having been on a delivery when the engine failed at the most inopportune time due to a "new", owner stated less than three weeks, 2 micron filter I propose that this can be as much of a safety issue as anything. Most boaters really don't know just how clean the fuel tank is. Clean tanks should be a first priority but in certain situations, like this delivery, not always possible.
We did a delivery on a Down East style boat that had been used as a floating condo. The fuel was in horrible shape but this was well before commercial tank cleaners existed as a business. The new owner stocked if for the delivery, with a case of 2 micron Racor 900 series filters. This guy pretty much bought everything by the case but that is another story....
Long and short is we went through all the 2 mic filters in 1/4 of the trip. We stopped and bought more 30 mic filters. We made it all the way to Maine, in 4-8 foot seas, on ONE 30 micron filter and the engine ran perfectly....
If you do a search using "Rich H." and "filter" as author and keyword you'll find a ton of good info. Rich is a guru when it comes to fuel filtration..
If it were me, and I were going to change it anyway, I'd go to the 24T which is 10 micron vs. 2 micron. It fits the same head and is the same filter only in a 10 instead of 2..
Having been on a delivery when the engine failed at the most inopportune time due to a "new", owner stated less than three weeks, 2 micron filter I propose that this can be as much of a safety issue as anything. Most boaters really don't know just how clean the fuel tank is. Clean tanks should be a first priority but in certain situations, like this delivery, not always possible.
We did a delivery on a Down East style boat that had been used as a floating condo. The fuel was in horrible shape but this was well before commercial tank cleaners existed as a business. The new owner stocked if for the delivery, with a case of 2 micron Racor 900 series filters. This guy pretty much bought everything by the case but that is another story....
Long and short is we went through all the 2 mic filters in 1/4 of the trip. We stopped and bought more 30 mic filters. We made it all the way to Maine, in 4-8 foot seas, on ONE 30 micron filter and the engine ran perfectly....
If you do a search using "Rich H." and "filter" as author and keyword you'll find a ton of good info. Rich is a guru when it comes to fuel filtration..
Racor fuel filters
Please see Reply #7 here, answers the "What do all the numbers mean on Racor filters?": http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1124.0.html
Maine Sail is right in that we have been "blessed" with two and now down to one good fuel suppliers where we sail. The fuel station gets lots of use and turns over the fuel with new weekly because of demand. So, we start off with clean fuel and have been doing so for 12 years. Just lucky, I guess.
Please see Reply #7 here, answers the "What do all the numbers mean on Racor filters?": http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1124.0.html
Maine Sail is right in that we have been "blessed" with two and now down to one good fuel suppliers where we sail. The fuel station gets lots of use and turns over the fuel with new weekly because of demand. So, we start off with clean fuel and have been doing so for 12 years. Just lucky, I guess.
Thanks for the advice. Diesel engine service is completely new to me, and I want to do it right the first time. From bleeding the fuel line to burping the cooling side, the first time is always the most intimidating. Also, wanted to let Maine Sail know that I stumbled across his photo page quite awhile back and really appreciate the how to do in pictures.
Burping
OK, unless you've seen it before, still there: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.0.html
OK, unless you've seen it before, still there: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.0.html
Re: Burping
I have seen the post that you linked, and will change coolant (hot water heater) hoses tomorrow. I assume that removing the 3/8 hose from the bottom of the thermostat is the only hose you have to pour the water anti freeze mixture into. When the bottom of the thermostat has the mixture running out of it, raise the same 3/8 hose above the level of the thermostat housing and continue to add the mixture until it comes out of the bottom of the housing, then connect the 3/8 hose back up. Is this correct?
I have seen the post that you linked, and will change coolant (hot water heater) hoses tomorrow. I assume that removing the 3/8 hose from the bottom of the thermostat is the only hose you have to pour the water anti freeze mixture into. When the bottom of the thermostat has the mixture running out of it, raise the same 3/8 hose above the level of the thermostat housing and continue to add the mixture until it comes out of the bottom of the housing, then connect the 3/8 hose back up. Is this correct?
Re: Yes it is
Did the hose change out to the hot water heater today, all went well. I will say that without the tag line that Stu suggested, it would have been tough. I tied one set of hoses (old and new) together with line, and the other with plastic wire ties. The plastic ties worked excellent because they drew the two hoses end to end (old and new) tight against each other, and made the push pull much easier than just the line. Also was going to change the heater exchanger zinc, but was puzzled when I pulled the brass 9/16 fitting off the exchanger. Inside the exchanger was a threaded post that the brass nut screwed on to. Thus the brass nut screw onto both the threaded post inside the heat exchanger, and threaded to the exchanger also. Not sure what the deal is, but the threaded post doesn't look at all like a zinc. Any advice
Did the hose change out to the hot water heater today, all went well. I will say that without the tag line that Stu suggested, it would have been tough. I tied one set of hoses (old and new) together with line, and the other with plastic wire ties. The plastic ties worked excellent because they drew the two hoses end to end (old and new) tight against each other, and made the push pull much easier than just the line. Also was going to change the heater exchanger zinc, but was puzzled when I pulled the brass 9/16 fitting off the exchanger. Inside the exchanger was a threaded post that the brass nut screwed on to. Thus the brass nut screw onto both the threaded post inside the heat exchanger, and threaded to the exchanger also. Not sure what the deal is, but the threaded post doesn't look at all like a zinc. Any advice
Maybe you should add a picture of that as I am not exactly sure what you are trying to describe. The zinc that goes into the heat exchanger screws into a brass base that screws into the heat exchanger. The zinc also screws into that brass base. If you just have a brass base and no remains of an old zinc then the heat exchanger has gone too long without a change. It is a good idea to replace that zinc yearly.
I agree about a picture
but try this:
U wrote --
Inside the exchanger was a threaded post that the brass nut screwed on to. Thus the brass nut screw onto both the threaded post inside the heat exchanger, and threaded to the exchanger also. Not sure what the deal is, but the threaded post doesn't look at all like a zinc.
I don't know what you think a zinc looks like. It's a gray small stick kinda thing with a threaded bump at the end that screws into the "brass" thingie.
The threaded post you describe sounds like the zinc itself stuck inside the HX. The brass nut isn't brass or ti wouldn't last too long in that environment.
The threaded post screws into the inside of the nut, take a look at the small threaded hole.
but try this:
U wrote --
Inside the exchanger was a threaded post that the brass nut screwed on to. Thus the brass nut screw onto both the threaded post inside the heat exchanger, and threaded to the exchanger also. Not sure what the deal is, but the threaded post doesn't look at all like a zinc.
I don't know what you think a zinc looks like. It's a gray small stick kinda thing with a threaded bump at the end that screws into the "brass" thingie.
The threaded post you describe sounds like the zinc itself stuck inside the HX. The brass nut isn't brass or ti wouldn't last too long in that environment.
The threaded post screws into the inside of the nut, take a look at the small threaded hole.
Actually the HX's on Universal & Westerbeke engines do have brass, copper, bronze, and even stainless as well as solder. This is specifically why they need a zinc..
As always a picture is worth a thousand words..
As for running or pulling heater hose I always use a hose/hose double ended barb. It tends to take a lot less time than wrapping string and zip ties and you don't need the hose clamps.
I always keep a supply of hose/hose barbs on board, in every size hose on my vessel. In the event I chafe through a hose I can splice it, but they work well for pulling new hoses too..
Some photos so we can decipher what he's describing..
I think what I was seeing (threaded post) still inside the HX was the zinc. When I tried to turn the brass nut off the bottom of the HX it was a real bear to break loose. When I finally did get it screwed off, the nut was all that screwed out. I assume I need to put a vice grips on the zinc and try and turn it out. I'll take pictures next time to help with the question.
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