I'm looking for some assistance with process for changing fuel filters. I have a Racor water separator just forward of the tank and the standard filter on the engine (Yanmar 2GM20F). Having reviewed the archives and the engine manual it appears as though it's as simple as unscrewing the filter, cleaning/changing the element, screwing it back on and bleeing out the top. My two concerns are: 1)provided that's the process, does the same apply to the Racor separator? 2) I'm of the understanding fuel in diesels is under high pressure. No doubt this is going to make me sound stupid, but is that a constant high pressure or just when the engine is on? Is there a shut off somewhere in the line that I'm supposed to use before I unscrew either filter? Don't want to shoot diesel everywhere. Any help in confirming the procedure and my concerns would be very appreciated. Thanks.
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general advice
The process varies somewhat depending upon which Racor you have - some unscrew from the bottom; others on top. Which model do you have? The high pressure side extends from the injectors back only to the high pressure pump. The side on which the primary is located is gravity feed from the tank, i.e., no pressure. Obviously, it may therefore be necessary to shut off the fuel tank valve while changing the filter but that too depends on your specific design. If you can provide this further info, the advice you'll get should be more precise
The process varies somewhat depending upon which Racor you have - some unscrew from the bottom; others on top. Which model do you have? The high pressure side extends from the injectors back only to the high pressure pump. The side on which the primary is located is gravity feed from the tank, i.e., no pressure. Obviously, it may therefore be necessary to shut off the fuel tank valve while changing the filter but that too depends on your specific design. If you can provide this further info, the advice you'll get should be more precise
Fuel Filters
Have clean diesel fuel to fill the filters as best you can. Loosen the screw on the top of the secondary filter (closet to the engine) then operate the manual lift pump until you see fuel coming out without bubbles - too remove the air all the back to the tank. Have plenty of paper towels to collect diesel fuel. You may have to bleed the hi pressure lines. Loosen one of the injector nuts - crank the engine - for any air to come out follwed by fuel. Tighten the nut and wipe up or catch the little diesel. This is a two person job - and the throttle should be full open - don't crank over 30 seconds. Note your engine hours and note the next filter change, pre filter all your diesel fuel before putting in the tank (check at West Marine for "Mr. Filter"). At a minimum twice a season I drain a little fuel from the primary filter to remove any water. (Catch it something so you check for water and debris). Keep your tank at least 3/4 full. I use Cetane Boost as an additive.
Have clean diesel fuel to fill the filters as best you can. Loosen the screw on the top of the secondary filter (closet to the engine) then operate the manual lift pump until you see fuel coming out without bubbles - too remove the air all the back to the tank. Have plenty of paper towels to collect diesel fuel. You may have to bleed the hi pressure lines. Loosen one of the injector nuts - crank the engine - for any air to come out follwed by fuel. Tighten the nut and wipe up or catch the little diesel. This is a two person job - and the throttle should be full open - don't crank over 30 seconds. Note your engine hours and note the next filter change, pre filter all your diesel fuel before putting in the tank (check at West Marine for "Mr. Filter"). At a minimum twice a season I drain a little fuel from the primary filter to remove any water. (Catch it something so you check for water and debris). Keep your tank at least 3/4 full. I use Cetane Boost as an additive.
Hi pressure line bleed
Don I'll check on the Racor model. The prior owner left two spare filters on board so I didn't look for a model on the filter. So gravity fed up to the pump which makes me feel better that I won't spray diesel everywhere. I'll just have a container big enough to catch what falls out of the line. What's the procedure then in the event I need to bleed the high pressure lines? Should I expect a forceful stream upon loosening the nut? Or is it only while cranking the engine? Thank you again gentlemen.
Don I'll check on the Racor model. The prior owner left two spare filters on board so I didn't look for a model on the filter. So gravity fed up to the pump which makes me feel better that I won't spray diesel everywhere. I'll just have a container big enough to catch what falls out of the line. What's the procedure then in the event I need to bleed the high pressure lines? Should I expect a forceful stream upon loosening the nut? Or is it only while cranking the engine? Thank you again gentlemen.
Pete
you can read directly what the eng mfg says at the attached link. On some, the filter is actually above the level of the tank so not all are gravity feed - you'll need to check. although you should not need to bleed the high pressure side, that too can be found on the link but it isn't as complicated as it may sound.
you can read directly what the eng mfg says at the attached link. On some, the filter is actually above the level of the tank so not all are gravity feed - you'll need to check. although you should not need to bleed the high pressure side, that too can be found on the link but it isn't as complicated as it may sound.
Raycor Model?
Pete, The OEM filter on our '86 Yanmar 2GM20F was a Fram, so it's likely that a Raycor could be a newer replacement, some of which have a priming pump on them. I'd Google Raycor and check the model #. Basicaly, first close the fuel valve on the tank to keep from draining the fuel in the line back into the tank. If it's a spin-on cartridge type such as a 220 serries, use a rubber strap wrench to remove the cartridge with its plastic or metal bowl attached. Empty the fuel into a pan, then separate the bowl from the cartridge with a second strap wrench ($10.00 for the pair from Sears). Install the new canister to the plastic or metal bowl hand tight with the new gasket provided; use a funnel to fill the components with fresh diesel fuel from the top; screw the components back onto the housing. Open the fuel valve on the top of the tank,open the bleed screw on top and push the priming pump button a couple times till fuel has completely filled the top of the filter and comes out the bleed screw as you close the bleed screw. I keep a small sauce pan or pie tin under the filter while I do this. Now remove the filter canister on the front of the engine by carefully tapping the top ring with a wide bladed screwdriver; unscrew thr ring and remove the aluminum bowl and old filter. Clean and re-fill the bowl with fresh fuel about 3/4's full; attach the top end of the new paper filter element to the housing and open one bleed screw. Instal an new 'O' ring and lift the partially filled bowl slowly up around the filter cartridge and reinstal and tighten the outer ring. Tap it a couple times with the flat screw driver blade to tighten. Now with the bleed screw still open follow the fuel line back from the filter back on the starboard side of the engine to the manual fuel pump. Work the pump lever down a couple full strokes till only fuel and no air bubbles comes out the filter's bleed screw as you tighten that screw with a new washer in place. Again a small sauce pan or raggs should be used to catch the fuel that squirts out of the bleed screw and runs down the housing. You should now be able to start the engine without needing to bleed the high pressure side. If you had removed or disconnected any fuel lines, particularly the metal lines with banjo fittings and copper washers, you would need to replace those washers. Bleeding the high pressure side at the injectors requires more than a do-it-yourself knowledge of the proceedure - I suggest you have someone knowledgeable in diesel engines show you how the first time.
Pete, The OEM filter on our '86 Yanmar 2GM20F was a Fram, so it's likely that a Raycor could be a newer replacement, some of which have a priming pump on them. I'd Google Raycor and check the model #. Basicaly, first close the fuel valve on the tank to keep from draining the fuel in the line back into the tank. If it's a spin-on cartridge type such as a 220 serries, use a rubber strap wrench to remove the cartridge with its plastic or metal bowl attached. Empty the fuel into a pan, then separate the bowl from the cartridge with a second strap wrench ($10.00 for the pair from Sears). Install the new canister to the plastic or metal bowl hand tight with the new gasket provided; use a funnel to fill the components with fresh diesel fuel from the top; screw the components back onto the housing. Open the fuel valve on the top of the tank,open the bleed screw on top and push the priming pump button a couple times till fuel has completely filled the top of the filter and comes out the bleed screw as you close the bleed screw. I keep a small sauce pan or pie tin under the filter while I do this. Now remove the filter canister on the front of the engine by carefully tapping the top ring with a wide bladed screwdriver; unscrew thr ring and remove the aluminum bowl and old filter. Clean and re-fill the bowl with fresh fuel about 3/4's full; attach the top end of the new paper filter element to the housing and open one bleed screw. Instal an new 'O' ring and lift the partially filled bowl slowly up around the filter cartridge and reinstal and tighten the outer ring. Tap it a couple times with the flat screw driver blade to tighten. Now with the bleed screw still open follow the fuel line back from the filter back on the starboard side of the engine to the manual fuel pump. Work the pump lever down a couple full strokes till only fuel and no air bubbles comes out the filter's bleed screw as you tighten that screw with a new washer in place. Again a small sauce pan or raggs should be used to catch the fuel that squirts out of the bleed screw and runs down the housing. You should now be able to start the engine without needing to bleed the high pressure side. If you had removed or disconnected any fuel lines, particularly the metal lines with banjo fittings and copper washers, you would need to replace those washers. Bleeding the high pressure side at the injectors requires more than a do-it-yourself knowledge of the proceedure - I suggest you have someone knowledgeable in diesel engines show you how the first time.
Racor Model 110
Thank you to all. The Raycor model is 110. It was installed so close to the exhaust housing in the aft locker I'm not sure how to get it undone but that's my project for today. I'll follow the other procedures as explained and give report on whether she starts. Thanks again. Your assistance is very much appreciated. Pete
Thank you to all. The Raycor model is 110. It was installed so close to the exhaust housing in the aft locker I'm not sure how to get it undone but that's my project for today. I'll follow the other procedures as explained and give report on whether she starts. Thanks again. Your assistance is very much appreciated. Pete
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