I recently saw a fuel polisher type system that can be installed onboard. This unit was about $2,400 and simply consisted of a fuel pump and filter set on a timer. After having spent $1,500 having my injector pumps rebuilt, I am very concerned about fuel contamination. Has anyone set up a homemade system that recirculates fuel through a separate filter like the $2,400 filter system? It seems this could be done very easily with an electric pump and 10 +/- micron cannister filter that would periodically keep the fuel circulating when sitting in port, taking out water and bio debris. This is on my possible project list.
Fuel Cleaning System
- Thread starter Brad Hoff
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There are other options.
Brad: There are other options. One of them (if you want a pre-made unit) is the Algae-x TK180. I think that this is about $800. There was also a system that was configured out of a few parts including a pump, some valves and a couple of filters. This was on Trawler World, so you may see if you can find it again. If someone builds an onboard system, it can also be setup as a bypass system incase of a failure while underway.
Brad: There are other options. One of them (if you want a pre-made unit) is the Algae-x TK180. I think that this is about $800. There was also a system that was configured out of a few parts including a pump, some valves and a couple of filters. This was on Trawler World, so you may see if you can find it again. If someone builds an onboard system, it can also be setup as a bypass system incase of a failure while underway.
build your own!
You can build your own manual system for under $250 with stock parts:get a suitable racor diesel filter/water separator and a transfer pump-about $200 total at WM-plus fittings and fuel hose to connect. If you want it built in, you'll only pick up suspended stuff. A better approach is to make it a stand alone system with an intake tube you can insert into the tank-down to the bottom to suck up any settled crud-and an outlet hose to feed into the filler hose to return the clean fuel to the tank. If you have good primary and secondary filters, you shouldn't need to polish the fuel more than once a year
You can build your own manual system for under $250 with stock parts:get a suitable racor diesel filter/water separator and a transfer pump-about $200 total at WM-plus fittings and fuel hose to connect. If you want it built in, you'll only pick up suspended stuff. A better approach is to make it a stand alone system with an intake tube you can insert into the tank-down to the bottom to suck up any settled crud-and an outlet hose to feed into the filler hose to return the clean fuel to the tank. If you have good primary and secondary filters, you shouldn't need to polish the fuel more than once a year
Steve Dion's link
Back in June I started a thread about cleaning the tank on my '87 h40 #217. Steve Dion (h40 owner from Rio Vista CA) posted a link taking me to a site where someone told exactly how they had made a "polisher." The link is still in the archives but apparently has expired. Perhaps Steve will repost the link he described as something "you may want to use ... as an idea to make your own system."
Back in June I started a thread about cleaning the tank on my '87 h40 #217. Steve Dion (h40 owner from Rio Vista CA) posted a link taking me to a site where someone told exactly how they had made a "polisher." The link is still in the archives but apparently has expired. Perhaps Steve will repost the link he described as something "you may want to use ... as an idea to make your own system."
Fuel Conditioner instead
After you have your tank cleaned or fuel polished consider using Hammerdown DFT #1500 fuel conditioner. As a professional marine engineer for over 25 years this is the only treatment I use and recommend. Most web sites are all hype and fluff, but hammerdown is the real deal. I use it on my USCG icebreaking tug and have NEVER had a fuel related injector or injection pump failure. The maintenance manual recommends changing nozzles on my main engines every 1000 hours and generators at 2000. I just plain don't need to!! Smoke and carbon buildup are greatly reduced. No bugs in the fuel either. The only drawback is the cost. It is cheap on a per gallon of fuel treated basis because it is so concentrated. I think one oz. treats 50 gallons. But the price per gallon is high. Much cheaper than new fuel systems though. Try to get a bunch of buddies to go in on a purchase esp. if you have some fuel using power boat friends. The only warning with this stuff is, DON'T TREAT A DIRTY TANK!!! The dirt, sludge, and microbial contamination will fall off the sides of the tank and clog up the filter in no time. Keep a filter set on hand and be ready to change it until you are sure the tank is clean.
After you have your tank cleaned or fuel polished consider using Hammerdown DFT #1500 fuel conditioner. As a professional marine engineer for over 25 years this is the only treatment I use and recommend. Most web sites are all hype and fluff, but hammerdown is the real deal. I use it on my USCG icebreaking tug and have NEVER had a fuel related injector or injection pump failure. The maintenance manual recommends changing nozzles on my main engines every 1000 hours and generators at 2000. I just plain don't need to!! Smoke and carbon buildup are greatly reduced. No bugs in the fuel either. The only drawback is the cost. It is cheap on a per gallon of fuel treated basis because it is so concentrated. I think one oz. treats 50 gallons. But the price per gallon is high. Much cheaper than new fuel systems though. Try to get a bunch of buddies to go in on a purchase esp. if you have some fuel using power boat friends. The only warning with this stuff is, DON'T TREAT A DIRTY TANK!!! The dirt, sludge, and microbial contamination will fall off the sides of the tank and clog up the filter in no time. Keep a filter set on hand and be ready to change it until you are sure the tank is clean.
2 micron filters
One more thing on fuel. Switch to a 2 micron filter. Remember, clean fuel is your injection systems best friend. Install two filter heads with a switching valve setup so that one clogged filter won't leave you stranded in a pinch. Why do filters always clog during bad weather at night while making a difficult port entry?
One more thing on fuel. Switch to a 2 micron filter. Remember, clean fuel is your injection systems best friend. Install two filter heads with a switching valve setup so that one clogged filter won't leave you stranded in a pinch. Why do filters always clog during bad weather at night while making a difficult port entry?
Thanks for the Ideas
I do not want to purchase a system, rather would like to put one together. I couldn't seem to find anything on this in the archives. If anyone has any leads on where I can dig up some plans, it would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, I will try to design it myself. I think this would be a fairly simple system to put together. Somewhere I see to recall reading that just circulating stagnant fuel helps keep moisture out.
I do not want to purchase a system, rather would like to put one together. I couldn't seem to find anything on this in the archives. If anyone has any leads on where I can dig up some plans, it would be greatly appreciated. Otherwise, I will try to design it myself. I think this would be a fairly simple system to put together. Somewhere I see to recall reading that just circulating stagnant fuel helps keep moisture out.
Fuel polishing system
Brad, I put a diesel fuel polishing system on my 410. I used a Walbro continuous duty fuel pump. Continuous duty is important. I also used a Racor fuel filter with a clear bowl at the base. The system is easy to install, took a weekend, and cost about $350.00 (I think - was a couple of years ago). I mounted it on the bulkhead in the port stern locker. I put a pick up tube in the fuel tank using the return-fuel fitting from the engine. It is complicated to explain in this note but here's the simple explanation. I screwed a new bronze fitting into the threads on the tank. In the center of the bronze fitting I put a plastic pick-up tube that went to the bottom of the tank. That tube connected to the hose that led to the Racor fuel filter. The diesel fuel that returned to the tank from the engine entered the bronze fitting and flowed back into the tank between the fitting and pick-up tube (the OD of the pick-up tube is smaller than the ID of the bronze fitting). The fuel to be polished entered the hose at the bronze fitting, travelled through a shut-off valve and into the Racor filter. Then into the fuel pump. It entered back into the fuel tank through a fitting plumbed into the fuel-fill hose that connects the fuel-fill fitting on deck with the tank. Simple, effective, and relatively inexpensive. Go on-line, type in Walbro for a review of pumps, type in fuel polishing for more ideas on pumps, set ups, etc. But it is far less expensive and probably better to install your own. You can tailor it to your space and needs. Good luck, John
Brad, I put a diesel fuel polishing system on my 410. I used a Walbro continuous duty fuel pump. Continuous duty is important. I also used a Racor fuel filter with a clear bowl at the base. The system is easy to install, took a weekend, and cost about $350.00 (I think - was a couple of years ago). I mounted it on the bulkhead in the port stern locker. I put a pick up tube in the fuel tank using the return-fuel fitting from the engine. It is complicated to explain in this note but here's the simple explanation. I screwed a new bronze fitting into the threads on the tank. In the center of the bronze fitting I put a plastic pick-up tube that went to the bottom of the tank. That tube connected to the hose that led to the Racor fuel filter. The diesel fuel that returned to the tank from the engine entered the bronze fitting and flowed back into the tank between the fitting and pick-up tube (the OD of the pick-up tube is smaller than the ID of the bronze fitting). The fuel to be polished entered the hose at the bronze fitting, travelled through a shut-off valve and into the Racor filter. Then into the fuel pump. It entered back into the fuel tank through a fitting plumbed into the fuel-fill hose that connects the fuel-fill fitting on deck with the tank. Simple, effective, and relatively inexpensive. Go on-line, type in Walbro for a review of pumps, type in fuel polishing for more ideas on pumps, set ups, etc. But it is far less expensive and probably better to install your own. You can tailor it to your space and needs. Good luck, John
Here is one schematic
There are many ways to plumb in a Walbro diesel pump and filter. Try this one: http://gulfcoastfilters.com/fuel_polishing.htm The basic choice to make is 1) whether you want to be able to use the pump as a backup to the engine fuel pump and to operate the polishing system while the engine is running, or 2) just use it to bleed the system after changing filters and to polish the fuel only when the engine is not running. For my money the latter is simpler and cheaper, and recreational sailors probably don't need more. And the use of the pump to bleed the fuel lines after changing filters is so convenient compared to manual pumping that it's worth the cost and effort all by itself. By the way, a Walbro series 6000 pump is what you need, and I would get the lowest pressure they make, 4 psi so as not to harm the Yanmar fuel system, unless you will need a high lift due to the location (The 4 psi will handle 2 ft lift easily). Walbro is coming out with a new series of pumps-the FR series-but they have not yet been proven by large numbers of users in tough sea conditions. Enjoy Ivan Bekey H356 #157
There are many ways to plumb in a Walbro diesel pump and filter. Try this one: http://gulfcoastfilters.com/fuel_polishing.htm The basic choice to make is 1) whether you want to be able to use the pump as a backup to the engine fuel pump and to operate the polishing system while the engine is running, or 2) just use it to bleed the system after changing filters and to polish the fuel only when the engine is not running. For my money the latter is simpler and cheaper, and recreational sailors probably don't need more. And the use of the pump to bleed the fuel lines after changing filters is so convenient compared to manual pumping that it's worth the cost and effort all by itself. By the way, a Walbro series 6000 pump is what you need, and I would get the lowest pressure they make, 4 psi so as not to harm the Yanmar fuel system, unless you will need a high lift due to the location (The 4 psi will handle 2 ft lift easily). Walbro is coming out with a new series of pumps-the FR series-but they have not yet been proven by large numbers of users in tough sea conditions. Enjoy Ivan Bekey H356 #157
Fuel Polisher
Like many diesel owners, I encountered a fuel problem earlier this year requiring the Racor to be replaced (PO's used a 2 mic unit). Eight hours of use later and my vacuum gage was back up to the "Change Filter" line. Remembering Fred Ficarra referencing Tractor Supply, I went to my nearest store and put together a polishing system from commercial grade equipment. The pump is a 12 volt unit that would normally be mounted in the bung of a 55 gallon drum and used to fuel construction equipment in the field. A commercial spin-on filter mount was plumbed to the intake and a 10 mic water-absorbing filter was spun on. 3/8" hose barbs were used for the in/out of the initial test. The whole assembly was mounted on a pressure treated wood upright. For the test cheap vinyl 3/8" ID tubing was used. A piece of 3/8" OD PVC was used as the dip tube into the tank with the hose clamped to it. The vinyl will be replaced with CG approved B2 hosing of 1/2" ID as the pump is strong enough to suck the vinyl flat on the suction side. The unit sucked a 5 gallon jug full in a couple of minutes. I filled three of them (more fuel in my tank than I thought!), then filtered the jugs back into the tank. This past weekend the vaccum gage was back to its normal area and the Yannie ran up to full RPM without a problem. The cost of the pump and filter assembly was under $250, plus three new yellow jugs dedicated to hold filtered diesel during the polishing process. Commercial cleaners get at least that much to do the same thing, so I'm ahead of the game already. Over the winter plans are for a complete fuel removal from the tank, installing a clean-out port, and cleaning out the tank. The pump isn't something that could be easily mounted on a boat but rather was intended to be used at the dock. As soon as I can I will take a picture and post it on the list.
Like many diesel owners, I encountered a fuel problem earlier this year requiring the Racor to be replaced (PO's used a 2 mic unit). Eight hours of use later and my vacuum gage was back up to the "Change Filter" line. Remembering Fred Ficarra referencing Tractor Supply, I went to my nearest store and put together a polishing system from commercial grade equipment. The pump is a 12 volt unit that would normally be mounted in the bung of a 55 gallon drum and used to fuel construction equipment in the field. A commercial spin-on filter mount was plumbed to the intake and a 10 mic water-absorbing filter was spun on. 3/8" hose barbs were used for the in/out of the initial test. The whole assembly was mounted on a pressure treated wood upright. For the test cheap vinyl 3/8" ID tubing was used. A piece of 3/8" OD PVC was used as the dip tube into the tank with the hose clamped to it. The vinyl will be replaced with CG approved B2 hosing of 1/2" ID as the pump is strong enough to suck the vinyl flat on the suction side. The unit sucked a 5 gallon jug full in a couple of minutes. I filled three of them (more fuel in my tank than I thought!), then filtered the jugs back into the tank. This past weekend the vaccum gage was back to its normal area and the Yannie ran up to full RPM without a problem. The cost of the pump and filter assembly was under $250, plus three new yellow jugs dedicated to hold filtered diesel during the polishing process. Commercial cleaners get at least that much to do the same thing, so I'm ahead of the game already. Over the winter plans are for a complete fuel removal from the tank, installing a clean-out port, and cleaning out the tank. The pump isn't something that could be easily mounted on a boat but rather was intended to be used at the dock. As soon as I can I will take a picture and post it on the list.
dirty fuel
Fuel Polishing is good, but the key is to start with a clean tank. I am religeous in using Biobor and a stabilizer. I have a bypass valve on my Universal M25xp that I keep open so that I am in effect polishing my fuel as I run the engine. This spring I decided to clean my tank. Pumped it through the racor until fuel flow stopped, pulled the tank, I was surprised that it still had a couple gallons of fuel in it. Once ashore I emptied the tank. The fuel that came out looked as if a pound of tea leaves had been poured in the tank. The BioBor did it's job, the critters were dead and hard, but despite by roughly 50 hours of "polishing" the previous year the tank wasn't even close to being clean. Fuel flow stopped on pump out because the racor was full, not the tank being empty. A dedicated polishing system will clean alot more fuel than bypass from my 3/8" fuel line does, but even so I wouldn't trust it unless I knew I started with a clean tank.
Fuel Polishing is good, but the key is to start with a clean tank. I am religeous in using Biobor and a stabilizer. I have a bypass valve on my Universal M25xp that I keep open so that I am in effect polishing my fuel as I run the engine. This spring I decided to clean my tank. Pumped it through the racor until fuel flow stopped, pulled the tank, I was surprised that it still had a couple gallons of fuel in it. Once ashore I emptied the tank. The fuel that came out looked as if a pound of tea leaves had been poured in the tank. The BioBor did it's job, the critters were dead and hard, but despite by roughly 50 hours of "polishing" the previous year the tank wasn't even close to being clean. Fuel flow stopped on pump out because the racor was full, not the tank being empty. A dedicated polishing system will clean alot more fuel than bypass from my 3/8" fuel line does, but even so I wouldn't trust it unless I knew I started with a clean tank.
Skippy & others...
Finally took some pictures. Will download them to the laptop then post them sometime this week. No diagram or parts list--it's awfully simple!
Finally took some pictures. Will download them to the laptop then post them sometime this week. No diagram or parts list--it's awfully simple!
Thanks Dan . .
Your cleaner has inspired me to assemble a cleaner for myself. I used a filter similar to yours but bought a smaller pump commonly used in sailing aux. of 15-30 hp range. It is rated at 4-6 psi and about 25 gph. I'm using it this weekend so I'll take a pic or two and post here with a review. BTW, I have about $125 in my setup.
Your cleaner has inspired me to assemble a cleaner for myself. I used a filter similar to yours but bought a smaller pump commonly used in sailing aux. of 15-30 hp range. It is rated at 4-6 psi and about 25 gph. I'm using it this weekend so I'll take a pic or two and post here with a review. BTW, I have about $125 in my setup.
You're Welcome, Clark and others...
I've got about double your amount, Clark, in this thing. The pump is rated at 12 to 15 GPM at a low head and is supposed to draw close to 20 amp/hours. It's supposed to be run steady for only a half hour max at a time. Using cheap small (3/8" ID) hose it filled a 5 gallon jug in a couple of minutes so it barely got a work-out with 15 gallons. Kept collapsing the suction hose! I wanted something that would do the job in a hurry, with possible ROI work that can be done. Now that I know it works I'll fit it with CG approved B-2 hose and move up to 1/2" ID. My next step is to put a smaller system aboard close to the tank that can be run cyclically as needed. A low capacity tractor or truck pump like you're contemplating should be adequate. I'll find out how well the polishing worked this weekend providing I don't have to dodge a hurricane.
I've got about double your amount, Clark, in this thing. The pump is rated at 12 to 15 GPM at a low head and is supposed to draw close to 20 amp/hours. It's supposed to be run steady for only a half hour max at a time. Using cheap small (3/8" ID) hose it filled a 5 gallon jug in a couple of minutes so it barely got a work-out with 15 gallons. Kept collapsing the suction hose! I wanted something that would do the job in a hurry, with possible ROI work that can be done. Now that I know it works I'll fit it with CG approved B-2 hose and move up to 1/2" ID. My next step is to put a smaller system aboard close to the tank that can be run cyclically as needed. A low capacity tractor or truck pump like you're contemplating should be adequate. I'll find out how well the polishing worked this weekend providing I don't have to dodge a hurricane.
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