The thur-hull valve in my head is frozen. It's the valve that drains the holding tank overboard. I do not want to brake the handle but I cannot get it to move. I have sprayed it with the a lubricant but have been unable to get it to open. Am I going to have to have it replaced? Which I am sure will be expensive.
Frozen Thru-hull Valve
- Thread starter MarkW
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B. O. A.T.= Break Out Another Thousand
Oh Yeah! It is going to be expensive! I suggest you go ahead and plan a bottom job and anything else you wanted to do at your next haul out. Odds are you boat will have to be pulled out of the water. On my boat that thru-hull is 1 1/2". I have four thru-hulls and atleast once ever couple of months I open an close them several times. Just to prevent this. On another note I hope you are keeping you boat somewhere, where you can pump your holding tank overboard. Because if you are in my marina and pumping it over board I would come looking for you because I would want to kick your Ass or even worse! I swim in this water too! My kids swim in the water.
Oh Yeah! It is going to be expensive! I suggest you go ahead and plan a bottom job and anything else you wanted to do at your next haul out. Odds are you boat will have to be pulled out of the water. On my boat that thru-hull is 1 1/2". I have four thru-hulls and atleast once ever couple of months I open an close them several times. Just to prevent this. On another note I hope you are keeping you boat somewhere, where you can pump your holding tank overboard. Because if you are in my marina and pumping it over board I would come looking for you because I would want to kick your Ass or even worse! I swim in this water too! My kids swim in the water.
I Exercise them all at the Dock
I always exercise my thru hulls at the dock each time I get underway (as part of my underway prep). That way, they always work. But I broke the Marelon handle on my head sink valve once and had to have the boat quick-hauled to fix it (leaving in a couple of days for a trip). It was an expensive fix. But let me give you some advice. I tried to replace it with a brass/bronze fitting - no go! The threads were different and I stripped the Marelon thru hull in the process. The yard mechanic couldn't readily locate another bronze/brass thru hull fitting (I wanted to go w/bronze/brass) so I had to go with the Marelon thru hull and shutoff valve anyway. So the price of a quick-haul (turned out overnight) led to a new Marelon thru hull and shutoff, plus yard labor. Not cheap!
I always exercise my thru hulls at the dock each time I get underway (as part of my underway prep). That way, they always work. But I broke the Marelon handle on my head sink valve once and had to have the boat quick-hauled to fix it (leaving in a couple of days for a trip). It was an expensive fix. But let me give you some advice. I tried to replace it with a brass/bronze fitting - no go! The threads were different and I stripped the Marelon thru hull in the process. The yard mechanic couldn't readily locate another bronze/brass thru hull fitting (I wanted to go w/bronze/brass) so I had to go with the Marelon thru hull and shutoff valve anyway. So the price of a quick-haul (turned out overnight) led to a new Marelon thru hull and shutoff, plus yard labor. Not cheap!
Intentionally stiff
I think they're intentionally hardened to discourage us from pumping head waste overboard. Global warming alert, etc.
I think they're intentionally hardened to discourage us from pumping head waste overboard. Global warming alert, etc.
Excercise and Boat
Yeah I know I am susposed to excersie them and for some reason I didn't do this one. Boat - No it's not pumping over board and I can pump out the holding tank.
Yeah I know I am susposed to excersie them and for some reason I didn't do this one. Boat - No it's not pumping over board and I can pump out the holding tank.
Several lubs that may work
I would not give up easily. I have always been able to free one given time and the right lube. I believe there is a product at advance auto called powerblaster or something like that that works well. I have used liquid wrench with much success over the years. Take your time and don't force it. Let in soak overnight or days and try again. You will be rewarded.
I would not give up easily. I have always been able to free one given time and the right lube. I believe there is a product at advance auto called powerblaster or something like that that works well. I have used liquid wrench with much success over the years. Take your time and don't force it. Let in soak overnight or days and try again. You will be rewarded.
Kenny's Probably Right
Mark, Just a guess, but it might be that the ball not the shaft is frozen. If the valve is frozen in the closed position you might consider removing the hose so that you can soak the ball itself. Good possibility that your corrosion is between the ball part of the valve and the bore. As Kenny says, let it soak and be patient. A plug within arms reach might be a consideration during this exercise.
Mark, Just a guess, but it might be that the ball not the shaft is frozen. If the valve is frozen in the closed position you might consider removing the hose so that you can soak the ball itself. Good possibility that your corrosion is between the ball part of the valve and the bore. As Kenny says, let it soak and be patient. A plug within arms reach might be a consideration during this exercise.
PB Blaster
PB Blaster is good stuff. Used it once to free up the frozen throttle lever when the heat exchanger dripped salt water onto it. I let it soak overnight and it freed right up. It bought it at Advance Auto.
PB Blaster is good stuff. Used it once to free up the frozen throttle lever when the heat exchanger dripped salt water onto it. I let it soak overnight and it freed right up. It bought it at Advance Auto.
Spoke to Forespar support people ...
about this type of problem. My '87 Legend 35 had a stuck (open position) sink value. I didn't want to force it until the boat was out of the water. After exchanging e-mails with the Forespar, they suggested (though didn't recomend) that loosening the the large king nut that holds the ball down towards the valve body might free it up. I did this and the valve operates easily. I will be re-assembling the valve with some additional teflon tape on the threads so ensure that the king nut is still firmly attached and does not spin. My quess is that it was overtightened in the past. Taking the king nut off allows easy cleaning of the insides. The Forespar people suggested replacing the valve due to it's age, but upon my inspection, I don't think that necessary. Chris
about this type of problem. My '87 Legend 35 had a stuck (open position) sink value. I didn't want to force it until the boat was out of the water. After exchanging e-mails with the Forespar, they suggested (though didn't recomend) that loosening the the large king nut that holds the ball down towards the valve body might free it up. I did this and the valve operates easily. I will be re-assembling the valve with some additional teflon tape on the threads so ensure that the king nut is still firmly attached and does not spin. My quess is that it was overtightened in the past. Taking the king nut off allows easy cleaning of the insides. The Forespar people suggested replacing the valve due to it's age, but upon my inspection, I don't think that necessary. Chris
Same problem - Just repaired it
I recently had exactly the same problem, and had tried the same corrective measures. When I got the valve off, I discovered the problem was the ocean side of the interior ball had corroded and pitted so much there was no way the ball was able to rotate. No amount of lubricate would have convinced it to turn. I simply unscrewed the valve and replaced it. The thru-hull appeared fine, so I kept it. I pounded on its exterior surface with a hammer which only slightly dinged the surface. That was good enough for me. Also, I have replaced this valve while the boat was still in the water. It's so close to the water line that there's little water pressure against the opening, so I was easily able to stop the flow with my hand over the open pipe. To make it even less messy of a task, I tapped a wooden plug into the outside opening until I had the new valve down tight. I had to take the old valve to the marine store to match it up with the replacement, so I had a friend stay on-board just in case. One other hint with replacing this valve, whether in or out of the water. It's a heck of a lot easier to completely remove the sink facing board. Trying to get a pipe wrench on that sucker in tight quarters is just plain miserable. It's well worth the effort of removing and replacing this door/facing.
I recently had exactly the same problem, and had tried the same corrective measures. When I got the valve off, I discovered the problem was the ocean side of the interior ball had corroded and pitted so much there was no way the ball was able to rotate. No amount of lubricate would have convinced it to turn. I simply unscrewed the valve and replaced it. The thru-hull appeared fine, so I kept it. I pounded on its exterior surface with a hammer which only slightly dinged the surface. That was good enough for me. Also, I have replaced this valve while the boat was still in the water. It's so close to the water line that there's little water pressure against the opening, so I was easily able to stop the flow with my hand over the open pipe. To make it even less messy of a task, I tapped a wooden plug into the outside opening until I had the new valve down tight. I had to take the old valve to the marine store to match it up with the replacement, so I had a friend stay on-board just in case. One other hint with replacing this valve, whether in or out of the water. It's a heck of a lot easier to completely remove the sink facing board. Trying to get a pipe wrench on that sucker in tight quarters is just plain miserable. It's well worth the effort of removing and replacing this door/facing.
valve replacement
I replace mine last year on my H30 it was easy. the hardest part was to get the valve off of the through hull I ended up cutting the through hull off and throwing out the valve. I replaced them both for a little under a hundred. Once the old junk was out it went in easy.
I replace mine last year on my H30 it was easy. the hardest part was to get the valve off of the through hull I ended up cutting the through hull off and throwing out the valve. I replaced them both for a little under a hundred. Once the old junk was out it went in easy.
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