I was changing my exhaust manifold and a bolt broke off ,about a inch is left.I tryed to remove couldnt.Any suggestions? PLEASE Its YSM 12 Yanmar
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Piece of cake.......
Well, not exactly, but this is not a tragedy. I hope you have some room to work because this will require some reasonable mechanical access to the broken stub. First, start soaking the broken bolt with a product called "PB Blaster". It is a lubricant designed to free frozen bolts. In my experience it is the very best of any type of chemical I have used for this purpose. It is available at most auto supply stores- about $4. If you had used this stuff before trying to remove the bolts, it is likely that you would not be in this predicament. But that is 20-20 hindsight..... Next, get yourself a stud extractor tool. I bought one from Snap-On, but I have seen them elsewhere. Sears may have one too. It is a circular device with two different sized holes for different ranges of bolt sizes. It requires only 1/2" of a bolt or stud to grab onto. You simply put the extractor over the broken stub and turn it with your wrench and broken stub will un-screw. Be sure to soak the stub with lots of PB Blaster. I would give several days of treatment before attempting removal. If the stub breaks again, you are facing a process of drilling out and cleaning the threads with a tap. If this becomes necessary, you may need to remove the head and work on it on a bench. I have had very good luck with this remover and PB Blaster. I have removed numerous broken studs from manifolds, boilers, and equipment that is rusty and corroded. If you need a picture of the stud remover, reply and I will post one. Good luck.
Well, not exactly, but this is not a tragedy. I hope you have some room to work because this will require some reasonable mechanical access to the broken stub. First, start soaking the broken bolt with a product called "PB Blaster". It is a lubricant designed to free frozen bolts. In my experience it is the very best of any type of chemical I have used for this purpose. It is available at most auto supply stores- about $4. If you had used this stuff before trying to remove the bolts, it is likely that you would not be in this predicament. But that is 20-20 hindsight..... Next, get yourself a stud extractor tool. I bought one from Snap-On, but I have seen them elsewhere. Sears may have one too. It is a circular device with two different sized holes for different ranges of bolt sizes. It requires only 1/2" of a bolt or stud to grab onto. You simply put the extractor over the broken stub and turn it with your wrench and broken stub will un-screw. Be sure to soak the stub with lots of PB Blaster. I would give several days of treatment before attempting removal. If the stub breaks again, you are facing a process of drilling out and cleaning the threads with a tap. If this becomes necessary, you may need to remove the head and work on it on a bench. I have had very good luck with this remover and PB Blaster. I have removed numerous broken studs from manifolds, boilers, and equipment that is rusty and corroded. If you need a picture of the stud remover, reply and I will post one. Good luck.
Hair Dryer
While puting the thin oil on it, also use a hair dryer to heat it up and then cool it off. You want to suck the oil down into the threads before you start applying force.
While puting the thin oil on it, also use a hair dryer to heat it up and then cool it off. You want to suck the oil down into the threads before you start applying force.
Frozded Bolts
Three suggestions: 1) Soak the area with WD-40 CRC or product metioned in the prvious response. You have to do this once a day for several days. A few times a day if possible. The more the better. 2) Each time you spray give the end of the bolt a sharp rap with a hammer. Not to bend it but it breaks loose the bold and gets the lubricant to penetrate. You' be surprised it really works. 3) Use a plumbers butane tourch (have wtaer near in case) and heat the bolt. Use the spray and the rapping first then the heat. If you can then get a vice grip on the end of the bold (Ie. all the others have come out and only the broked bolt is left try to turn it out. heat it while you work. If you can't get at the shaft of the broken bolt then the extractor is the way to go. Sears has them as does ever good autoshop. THis works on car exhaust manifolds and I've had lots of success. Let us know who you make out
Three suggestions: 1) Soak the area with WD-40 CRC or product metioned in the prvious response. You have to do this once a day for several days. A few times a day if possible. The more the better. 2) Each time you spray give the end of the bolt a sharp rap with a hammer. Not to bend it but it breaks loose the bold and gets the lubricant to penetrate. You' be surprised it really works. 3) Use a plumbers butane tourch (have wtaer near in case) and heat the bolt. Use the spray and the rapping first then the heat. If you can then get a vice grip on the end of the bold (Ie. all the others have come out and only the broked bolt is left try to turn it out. heat it while you work. If you can't get at the shaft of the broken bolt then the extractor is the way to go. Sears has them as does ever good autoshop. THis works on car exhaust manifolds and I've had lots of success. Let us know who you make out
Tapping is a very good idea, but heating....
....is a technique that I would use as a last resort. High temperature heating will burn the lubricant that you are trying to get in the threads- counterproductive IMO. My experience says to just soak several times/day for several days, tap firmly when lubing, and repeat as often as possible. Another technique is to use vise grips to apply a torque to the bolt and at the same time tap the end of the bolt with a hammer. This will also help to loosen the grip of the threads.
....is a technique that I would use as a last resort. High temperature heating will burn the lubricant that you are trying to get in the threads- counterproductive IMO. My experience says to just soak several times/day for several days, tap firmly when lubing, and repeat as often as possible. Another technique is to use vise grips to apply a torque to the bolt and at the same time tap the end of the bolt with a hammer. This will also help to loosen the grip of the threads.
hit it
Jon i have worked as a auto tech for 20 yrs. and i have broken off sevral bolts. try to hit the bolt dead on a couple of times hard!! this will jar the threads. then head it up with a plumers torch and wait for it to cool down and then try some vise grips on it. use pb blaster on it also.
Jon i have worked as a auto tech for 20 yrs. and i have broken off sevral bolts. try to hit the bolt dead on a couple of times hard!! this will jar the threads. then head it up with a plumers torch and wait for it to cool down and then try some vise grips on it. use pb blaster on it also.
"free"
Your situation is not as bad as it may seem. Purchase a can of "FREE," a lubricant made by Certified Laboratories, a division of lubemaster. This product is made for "freeing" frozen metal parts and will actually penetrate threads at any angle. I was turned on to this product by the mechanics who service our fire engines. An application of free should release your bolt, most certainly if used in conjunction with a bolt extractor as Rich discussed. Chris
Your situation is not as bad as it may seem. Purchase a can of "FREE," a lubricant made by Certified Laboratories, a division of lubemaster. This product is made for "freeing" frozen metal parts and will actually penetrate threads at any angle. I was turned on to this product by the mechanics who service our fire engines. An application of free should release your bolt, most certainly if used in conjunction with a bolt extractor as Rich discussed. Chris
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