fridge

[Don Lawrence]

Im am in the process of converting the original engine powered fridge on my 1984 hunter cutter 37 to an electric unit. So far i have removed all of the original parts from the engine and removed the stainless steel box and copper tubes from the fridge.
The plan is to install a 12 volt electric unit and have it powered from a 12 volt deep cycle battery. This battery will run independent from the rest of my house power and will recharge using 2 sollar panels mounted on the stern of my boat. These panels are mounted on the top of the arch i had custom made last year when we replaced the stern rail.
I will post the pictures of the arch and panels and fridge unit as the work progresses.
My question is, has anyone else converted there existing unit to a 12 volt fridge and can you give me any advise before i purchase the compressor ect.

By the way, if anyone is in need of the old parts i removed from the engine i will be happy to ship them to you (you pay for shipping) if you think they will be of any use to you.

 

[rardiH36]

Don:

I don't have any expertise or experience re your question. So no advice given but ...

... Suggest that you also post your fridge query on the Ask All Sailors forum as 1) it would seem as not specific only to Cherubini Hunters and 2) A lot more people who might have suggestions follow the Ask All Sailors threads than on the Cherubini site.

good luck.

 

[Steve Dion]

Check out Isotherm SP units. They have a very low current draw which may work out well for someone that is using Solar.

One question may be, why are you seperating your battery banks?

 

[Seattle Scott]

Don

I don't care about your fridge :naughty: until I see a pic of your arch.

 

[Jim Legere]

Don,
I don't believe the Hunter 37 Cutter came from the factory with anything more than an icebox. Your "original" or "existing" refridgeration was probably installed by a PO. Engine-driven refridgeration was at one time considered the best system for cruiser/liveaboards but has the drawback of putting wear & tear on your diesel. A lot of charter boats in the Caribbean still use this. I have an Alder Barbour Super Cold Machine installed on my 1983 H-37C. Its OK but I don't think my system would work well living aboard in southern waters (draws too much power). Nigel Calder has written a lot about the subject - try Googling it.

Best wishes,
Jim
SV CALYPSO
Halifax

 

[seadaddler]

Ref

Try getting a unit that has water cooling,I am not talking about a water pump cooled unit but just water cooled they use less 12 volt power,also if you are at the dock a lot with shore power get the ref with a transformer so not always using the batteries,only my thoughts.
Nick

 

[Don Lawrence]

wow, i just love this forum, thanks for the input from everyone.
First, i do not know much about the water cooled style of marine refrigeration. All of the boats i looked at in our marina had a ac/dc driven motor and cooling plate. I will do some research to see how they perform in these waters(Lake Ontario) and a typical current draw to cool my existing fridge/icebox
Also, just googled and found the book written by Nigel Calder titled, (of all things) "Refrigeration for Pleaseureboats". This looks like a must read before i spend the thousand bucks or so for the fridge.
The isotherm specs i downloaded and have been looking at them. On my next vist to the boat repair shop, were my boat is currently undergoing reconstructive surgury to her stern (P.O. had some serious damage to the stern and bow) i will be measuring the volume of the fridge and seeing what unit is recommened for this size.

Thanks again to everyone for there input and i will keep you posted on my progress.

Regards
Don Lawrence
hunter 37 cutter
(boat formerly known as C`est La Vie, Ponce Inlet, Vancouver, BC)

ps:
some pics of the arch are downloaded in my profile if anyone is interested in looking at it.

 

[Steve Dion]

Don:

The Isotherm SP units are cooled by water and not by a fan (air cooled). With the cold waters of Lake Ontario that would be the temp that your coolant would be cooled to. If you think about that vs air cooling you can probably figure out a lot of the advantage.

There are some units on the market that have an additional unit on them that also requires a pump. They work in conjunction with the air cooling, but you are also consuming electricity for the pump.

I would also suggest that you take a look at the section that is in the lazarette. It needs additional insulation to really beef up the cooling system too.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Whichever unit you choose the key is insulation of the old box or a brand new box. You may get some ideas from Rainbow Chaser, see "Tore Out the Galley":
http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/upgrades.html .

I insulated the door and added a seal around the edges. I glued insulation on the top of the box. I long ago had sealed off and covered the entry from the starboard locker. My Adler/Barbour runs about 20 minutes an hour, six amps / three = about two amps per hour. It draws from inside the boat for cooler air: http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7309&page=article&mn=37-cutter . I probably should have opted for water-cooling since I am now in Florida.

 

[Capt Jerry]

Don, check out http://kollmann-marine.com . I have been reading this site for quite a few years. By the way, Mr Kollman does not recommend water cooled units. Good luck!

 

[sandpiper10471]

Don: Since you are in S. Ontario, give Ray at Raysmarine in Brampton a call. He has a really cool, (no pun) super efficient water cooled fridge unit available.

And I am in Guelph. Would be good to get together.