Looking for a bit of advise on my fresh water pump. I have an old Jabsco and thought she works she seems very tired. When I use a sink I initially get good water pressure but that only lasts about three or four seconds. At that time the water comes out but at a fraction of the original GPM's. It is this way in all the fixtures. On top of that, when the valve is closed (the sink is turned off) the pump seems to continue running for some times over five seconds before it stops. This is a new trend, I can only guess the pump is simply wearing out but I just don't know, do pumps do this when they wear out??? She sounds like many of us, quick burst of energy than we sputter out and need a long time to recover.... I'd hate to go out and fork over $150 for a new one and find it is doing the same thing. By the way, I am quite confident the pipes aren't clogged and I've been using your tank and water conditioning system for many years, great system, thanx.
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You don't need to spend anywhere NEAR $150!
If the pump is anywhere near 10 years old, it's time to give it a decent burial. A 2.8 gpm Shurflo--which is big enough for 38-40 sailboat is only about $90...and if your boat is under 30', a 1.6 gpm for about $65 is plenty big enough. You CAN run the price up to $150, but you won't gain anything.
If the pump is anywhere near 10 years old, it's time to give it a decent burial. A 2.8 gpm Shurflo--which is big enough for 38-40 sailboat is only about $90...and if your boat is under 30', a 1.6 gpm for about $65 is plenty big enough. You CAN run the price up to $150, but you won't gain anything.
Variable speed pump
is the best thing since sliced bread. I used to have one the regular pumps with an accumulator pump. Never seemed to work right. I installed on of the new variable speed pumps, get 4.5 gpm and the flow is like you enjoy at your home. Well worth the $170.00, quiet, efficient, and constant flow regardless of the amount of water I am using. Bought mine at Camping World which is great because the RV industry uses the same type of products we use and it is $50.00 chaeper than at WM. See link
is the best thing since sliced bread. I used to have one the regular pumps with an accumulator pump. Never seemed to work right. I installed on of the new variable speed pumps, get 4.5 gpm and the flow is like you enjoy at your home. Well worth the $170.00, quiet, efficient, and constant flow regardless of the amount of water I am using. Bought mine at Camping World which is great because the RV industry uses the same type of products we use and it is $50.00 chaeper than at WM. See link
air in the lines?
I had similar behaviour after letting my fresh water system run dry then refilling. Turned out to be air in the lines. I figure that when the fixture was closed the pressure would build up (thus the pump run-on). On opening the fixture there would be full pressure and but since air is more compressible the pressure would drop off. Anyway, your mileage may vary. If I were going for a new pump I would look at the variable flow jobs. No more rhythmic sawing in the middle of the night...
I had similar behaviour after letting my fresh water system run dry then refilling. Turned out to be air in the lines. I figure that when the fixture was closed the pressure would build up (thus the pump run-on). On opening the fixture there would be full pressure and but since air is more compressible the pressure would drop off. Anyway, your mileage may vary. If I were going for a new pump I would look at the variable flow jobs. No more rhythmic sawing in the middle of the night...
last question
A pressure switch was mentioned in one of the responses. Do most pumps have that switch built into the unit or are they a seperate animal located in some obscure corner of a bilge (that on my boat could only be reached with ET fingers and two mirrors)? If the pressure switch is incorporated into the unit than I'll just switch that old puppy out. Leaving for the Bahamas in two weeks and I'd hate to deal with this in some no-name cay 100 miles from a marine store.
A pressure switch was mentioned in one of the responses. Do most pumps have that switch built into the unit or are they a seperate animal located in some obscure corner of a bilge (that on my boat could only be reached with ET fingers and two mirrors)? If the pressure switch is incorporated into the unit than I'll just switch that old puppy out. Leaving for the Bahamas in two weeks and I'd hate to deal with this in some no-name cay 100 miles from a marine store.
pretty new pump, same old problem
Well, I did it. I switched out the old pump and replaced it with a shining new SHURflo. The new pump works just dandy, except it is doing the exact same thing as the old, typical of my projects..... Oh well, at least we now have a back-up water pump. My symptoms are this; when I run an outlet for ten seconds than the pump will run for an additional twenty five seconds, this seems kinda excessive but I'm not sure. Quite honestly, I don't remember if the last pump did this or not. I suspect there is air someplace in the line but not sure of just how to go about bleeding it without adding more air. I've read several articles about the hot water heater being a prime suspect. One letter mentioned the pump head might have air in it.
Well, I did it. I switched out the old pump and replaced it with a shining new SHURflo. The new pump works just dandy, except it is doing the exact same thing as the old, typical of my projects..... Oh well, at least we now have a back-up water pump. My symptoms are this; when I run an outlet for ten seconds than the pump will run for an additional twenty five seconds, this seems kinda excessive but I'm not sure. Quite honestly, I don't remember if the last pump did this or not. I suspect there is air someplace in the line but not sure of just how to go about bleeding it without adding more air. I've read several articles about the hot water heater being a prime suspect. One letter mentioned the pump head might have air in it.
Stumped.
I guess if it were me, I'd run the tank dry, remove the line at the tank and pump and blow out the line with air to see how free it is. Then I'd do the same thing from the fixtures. Then check all the hot water connections. I have no clue why this might be acting up. SHURflo customer support might help. Sorry we couldn't save you the pain and money of your last try. Your description of the pump's action is abnormal. I assume you put in a high-bypass pump designed for use without an accumulator tank? That assumes, of course, that you DON"T have an accumulator tank. If you do, that's a whole different story. If you do have one, check the air pressure. And, be sure the pump you have is the correct model for use with a tank. It is NOT a high-bypass model. Rick D.
I guess if it were me, I'd run the tank dry, remove the line at the tank and pump and blow out the line with air to see how free it is. Then I'd do the same thing from the fixtures. Then check all the hot water connections. I have no clue why this might be acting up. SHURflo customer support might help. Sorry we couldn't save you the pain and money of your last try. Your description of the pump's action is abnormal. I assume you put in a high-bypass pump designed for use without an accumulator tank? That assumes, of course, that you DON"T have an accumulator tank. If you do, that's a whole different story. If you do have one, check the air pressure. And, be sure the pump you have is the correct model for use with a tank. It is NOT a high-bypass model. Rick D.
Hot Water Heater
The pump will run whenever the line pressure is below the pressure that the pressure switch is set to come on. This may be adjustable, read the manual and see if you can adjust the sensitivity of the pump. I had a minor leak in the hot water heater hose and the pump would cycle periodically as the pressure was relieved downstream from the pump. Any leak in the system will cause this phenomena. If the leak is upstream then the pump will be drawing air and passing that into the line past the impeller. You definitely need to check the whole system for leaks. Best of luck dave
The pump will run whenever the line pressure is below the pressure that the pressure switch is set to come on. This may be adjustable, read the manual and see if you can adjust the sensitivity of the pump. I had a minor leak in the hot water heater hose and the pump would cycle periodically as the pressure was relieved downstream from the pump. Any leak in the system will cause this phenomena. If the leak is upstream then the pump will be drawing air and passing that into the line past the impeller. You definitely need to check the whole system for leaks. Best of luck dave
Hi Steven, the pressure switch on our pump...
is installed at the top of the pump housing and can be replaced. Do you have an impeller filter, usually located between the tank and the pump. It filters out debris to protect the pump impeller. It could be clogged. Ours was. Also, connect a meter to the pump and monitor the voltage while it is running. Our pump had the same symptoms as you described and the problem was low voltage. Terry
is installed at the top of the pump housing and can be replaced. Do you have an impeller filter, usually located between the tank and the pump. It filters out debris to protect the pump impeller. It could be clogged. Ours was. Also, connect a meter to the pump and monitor the voltage while it is running. Our pump had the same symptoms as you described and the problem was low voltage. Terry
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