We recently purchased an 84 Hunter 25.5. The boat was not used for 4 or 5 years and not maintained. We are restoring the systems and hve gotten to the fresh water system. It has not been used before. We know where to fill the fresh water holding tank, but we don't know what precautions we should take before use. Any suggestions?
Fresh water holding tank
- Thread starter Bill18593
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Don't use bleach
If you have an aluminum tank. See my previous post and the pictures. Bleach is corrosive to aluminum and makes a salt which can be ingested. Not good for you or the tank. I am replacing mine with fiberglass.
If you have an aluminum tank. See my previous post and the pictures. Bleach is corrosive to aluminum and makes a salt which can be ingested. Not good for you or the tank. I am replacing mine with fiberglass.
Bleach not damaging when used as directed
While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are are cumulative...and it's the cumulative effect of carrying chlorinated municipal water for years that does the damage to metal tanks... Which, btw, makes it a VERY bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell like a laundry, it’s not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any “purifying” properties in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving behind only the corrosive properties. If the bleach solution used to recommission the system were allowed to remain in the system, it would be highly damaging...but the directions call for completely flushing it out within 24 hours, which does no damage at all. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank. Btw, Patrick...why go with fiberglass--which can have its own set of problems--blisters, moisture absorption that leads to rot, etc, and a lot more weight...why not go with a good quality polyethyelene tank? If Ronco Plastics doesn't have one that'll fit among their 400 shapes and sizes, you could have a welded tank poly tank made. A good quality poly tank will last as long as the boat itself.
While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it’s effects are are cumulative...and it's the cumulative effect of carrying chlorinated municipal water for years that does the damage to metal tanks... Which, btw, makes it a VERY bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell like a laundry, it’s not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any “purifying” properties in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving behind only the corrosive properties. If the bleach solution used to recommission the system were allowed to remain in the system, it would be highly damaging...but the directions call for completely flushing it out within 24 hours, which does no damage at all. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank. Btw, Patrick...why go with fiberglass--which can have its own set of problems--blisters, moisture absorption that leads to rot, etc, and a lot more weight...why not go with a good quality polyethyelene tank? If Ronco Plastics doesn't have one that'll fit among their 400 shapes and sizes, you could have a welded tank poly tank made. A good quality poly tank will last as long as the boat itself.
Peggy,
Does it make sense to use [true] Lysol rather than or in addition, as a separate step, bleach?
Does it make sense to use [true] Lysol rather than or in addition, as a separate step, bleach?
Noooo....
Lysol shouldn't even be used in the toilet, much less in the fresh water system. The directions Rick posted are the only ones I've ever found that meet the codes for sanitizing fresh water systems.
Lysol shouldn't even be used in the toilet, much less in the fresh water system. The directions Rick posted are the only ones I've ever found that meet the codes for sanitizing fresh water systems.
25.5 water tank
There should be a clean out opening for the tank. You might want to open it up and clean it as much as possible before treating in accordance with Bill's comments. Hard telling what might have accumulated over the years. Make certain the small vent on the stern is clear of insect nests, etc. On my 25.5 the water quickly becomes stale and smelly if it is not used. I keep the amount in the tank small and try to cycle it to replace all water in the tank every trip to the marina. That seems to do the trick, but I still do not use the tank water for drinking or cooking.
There should be a clean out opening for the tank. You might want to open it up and clean it as much as possible before treating in accordance with Bill's comments. Hard telling what might have accumulated over the years. Make certain the small vent on the stern is clear of insect nests, etc. On my 25.5 the water quickly becomes stale and smelly if it is not used. I keep the amount in the tank small and try to cycle it to replace all water in the tank every trip to the marina. That seems to do the trick, but I still do not use the tank water for drinking or cooking.
Not convinced, Peggy
Sorry - I do not mean to be argumentative but what I have seen directly and read convinces me that bleach is a very bad idea in aluminum tanks in any amount for any time. My own tank was so bad after 14 years that I was shocked it still held water. I could find no evidence that the so-called "purifying" properties of bleach are any different than the "corrosive" properties. I will look further into this but I have decided that aluminum is not ever a good choice for any water tank - fresh or holding. There is more than enough evidence of bad health effects of aluminum that also adds to the list of reasons not to have one. If you have some "code" reference, I would like to read it. It seems to me that it is just too easy for someone to innocently use bleach or alkaline disinfectant or cleaner and flush it. Cursory investigation suggests to me that hydrogen peroxide is far better albiet more expensive for disinfection of aluminum tanks. It is bad mechanically for plastics though but I think the toxicity of the residue is nil. As to polyethylene, I will use that for the holding tank but for now, the time and expense is far less for me to just make a fresh water tank out of epoxy resin and fiberglass. It should be just as good as polyethylene. I will not be using any materials that will rot and I am not at all concerned about blisters. Using fiberglass allows me to design it as I wish and effectively utilize the previously wasted space. It will be two tanks and the design will allow space for three 24 X 30 X 6 inch drawers in the vee berth. I will also be adding large cleanout covers - unlike my previous tanks which had none at all. I will be rerouting the plumbing and relocating the terribly loud water pump to an area under the tank where it should be much quieter. There is also going to be a large water filter. Drinking water is going to be kept in a separate (third) stainsless steel tank.
Sorry - I do not mean to be argumentative but what I have seen directly and read convinces me that bleach is a very bad idea in aluminum tanks in any amount for any time. My own tank was so bad after 14 years that I was shocked it still held water. I could find no evidence that the so-called "purifying" properties of bleach are any different than the "corrosive" properties. I will look further into this but I have decided that aluminum is not ever a good choice for any water tank - fresh or holding. There is more than enough evidence of bad health effects of aluminum that also adds to the list of reasons not to have one. If you have some "code" reference, I would like to read it. It seems to me that it is just too easy for someone to innocently use bleach or alkaline disinfectant or cleaner and flush it. Cursory investigation suggests to me that hydrogen peroxide is far better albiet more expensive for disinfection of aluminum tanks. It is bad mechanically for plastics though but I think the toxicity of the residue is nil. As to polyethylene, I will use that for the holding tank but for now, the time and expense is far less for me to just make a fresh water tank out of epoxy resin and fiberglass. It should be just as good as polyethylene. I will not be using any materials that will rot and I am not at all concerned about blisters. Using fiberglass allows me to design it as I wish and effectively utilize the previously wasted space. It will be two tanks and the design will allow space for three 24 X 30 X 6 inch drawers in the vee berth. I will also be adding large cleanout covers - unlike my previous tanks which had none at all. I will be rerouting the plumbing and relocating the terribly loud water pump to an area under the tank where it should be much quieter. There is also going to be a large water filter. Drinking water is going to be kept in a separate (third) stainsless steel tank.
I agree with you 100% about one thing...
Aluminum is a bad choice for boat tankage, period--water AND holding...and I have my doubts about it for fuel. But no matter what the tank is made of, the plumbing is where most of the "critters"-- which fortunately are non-harmful, but still grow the molds and fungi that result in foul smelling/tasting water--grow...just cleaning out the tank doesn't solve that problem...and neither will separate tanks for bathing etc and cooking/drinking. Filters only mask the problem till they become clogged up enough to get your attention. They're fine *in addition to* system maintenance, but they aren't a substitute for it. And they actually add to the critter population 'cuz they filter out the chlorine and other chemicals that inhibit their growth. The code citation was included in the information at the link in Rick's reply: "The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated." However, if you're more comfortable using H2O2 in your fresh water system and filters, that's ok with me...it's your boat. But just for fun, in about a year, pull off a hose and take a look at the inside of it. I'll bet you a beer that it'll be black and really slimy inside.
Aluminum is a bad choice for boat tankage, period--water AND holding...and I have my doubts about it for fuel. But no matter what the tank is made of, the plumbing is where most of the "critters"-- which fortunately are non-harmful, but still grow the molds and fungi that result in foul smelling/tasting water--grow...just cleaning out the tank doesn't solve that problem...and neither will separate tanks for bathing etc and cooking/drinking. Filters only mask the problem till they become clogged up enough to get your attention. They're fine *in addition to* system maintenance, but they aren't a substitute for it. And they actually add to the critter population 'cuz they filter out the chlorine and other chemicals that inhibit their growth. The code citation was included in the information at the link in Rick's reply: "The following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of time, or one that may have been contaminated." However, if you're more comfortable using H2O2 in your fresh water system and filters, that's ok with me...it's your boat. But just for fun, in about a year, pull off a hose and take a look at the inside of it. I'll bet you a beer that it'll be black and really slimy inside.
Boatbum Correction
I goofed! Follow the info in Rick's note. You will not likely have a pressurized system, but the basic concepts in the article he links to have worked for me and others. As others have indicated, avoid Lysol.
I goofed! Follow the info in Rick's note. You will not likely have a pressurized system, but the basic concepts in the article he links to have worked for me and others. As others have indicated, avoid Lysol.
Already done that, Peggy
I have now substantially disassembled my fresh water system and it is very clean. No black stuff or slime anywhere. The only exception is the corrosion in the aluminum tank which is not black or slimey. I have never commissioned or decomissioned it or used any bleach or anything else or even flushed it out except when we first saw the suspended aluminum salt particles a few years ago. It has sat as long as 8 months without being used and I have owned the boat for 7-8 years now. The water has always looked and smelled ok except for the aluminum corrosion - salt particles which have been seen from time to time. The citation you refer to is not a clear reference. Where can I find it published? BTW - I like root beer. Henry Wienhard or Thomas Kemper is best but Mug is good too. Thanks for your assistance
I have now substantially disassembled my fresh water system and it is very clean. No black stuff or slime anywhere. The only exception is the corrosion in the aluminum tank which is not black or slimey. I have never commissioned or decomissioned it or used any bleach or anything else or even flushed it out except when we first saw the suspended aluminum salt particles a few years ago. It has sat as long as 8 months without being used and I have owned the boat for 7-8 years now. The water has always looked and smelled ok except for the aluminum corrosion - salt particles which have been seen from time to time. The citation you refer to is not a clear reference. Where can I find it published? BTW - I like root beer. Henry Wienhard or Thomas Kemper is best but Mug is good too. Thanks for your assistance
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