Forward Hatch Leak

[Michael Meyer]

I believe the frame seal on my forward hatch has developed a leak. Between the gel coat and aluminum frame. Is there a gasket that needs to be replaced? Or do I just use some sort of sealant? It looks like I just remove the screws from the outside...?

Any one have any suggestions?

 

[Long Story]

1st suggestion be sure it is a leak before removing the hatch. Check the seal on the hatch itself which is pretty straight forward to replace. Be sure it is not a matter of just simple condensation from the metal frame when sleeping forward. Why do I say this, because removing the hatch is not as simple as removing the screws. There is not a gasket between frame and deck, but a sealant and getting the hatch out is not easy it requires, heat, careful prying and lifting and lots of cleaning. It would be rare for the actual deck seal to leak. Check the other first.

 

[hewebb]

I chased a hatch leak for a couple of months. I changed the plastic. resealed the frame to deck joint. Still leaked. I ended up machining new latch pivot pins out of aluminum to replace the original plastic ones. Now I can tighten the latches down enough to stop the leak. Lots of work but it worked.

 

[JK_Boston_Catalina310]

Here is what Lewmar has to say about leaking hatches (http://www.lewmar.com/FAQCategory.asp?Cat=102):

My hatch/portlight is leaking. What should I do?
If a Lewmar hatch or portlight does start to leak it is important to establish the leak path. Where the water finally appears in side the boat is not always a good indication of the leak path. The easiest way to trace a leak is to wait for a dry day and use a marina hose. Establishing the leak path may be difficult if there is a significant level of condensation on the hatch/portlight.

Possible leak paths are:

Under the lower frame. This is caused by insufficient bedding compound between the low frame and the deck, or the compound breaking down over time. It may also occur if the cut out in the deck is too big or the hatch/portlight is not mounted on a flat surface. This is a build or installation problem.
Between the lower frame and the rubber seal (gasket). This may be caused by the upper frame being distorted or a loss of seal pressure. Lay a straight edge along the sides of the hatch and also diagonally across the lid to check for twist. Also check the seal for dirt or damage. Try closing the lid down on a sheet of paper. If the paper can be slid out when the hatch is closed the seal is not compressing.
Through the holes in the acrylic used on some products to fasten the handles, hinges or friction levers. The handles have a standard O-ring under the plastic moulding on the outside of the acrylic. This should be cleaned and lightly lubricated with silicone grease.
Between the acrylic and the upper frame. (Not Standard portlights and Concept hatches.) This is caused by a breakdown in the adhesion between the sealant and the upper frame or acrylic. Try gently pushing the acrylic up out of the frame and look for movement. This type of leak is the least common.

I would call your attention to the leak path between the acrylic window and any hardware. My PO tried to track down a leak for years. Recaulked the hatch several times (poorly, ugh that was a mess). All along it was the hinges that were leaking. Lewmar does sell a seal kit for this repair but it is mainly just O rings.

Fair winds,

Jesse