Forward hatch latch?

[John]

What is the stock latch setup for the forward hatch on a C22? Our ('76) hatch cover is fairly peppered with holes from various attempts of attaching latch hardware to it. The current arrangement is a spacer of 1/4" plexiglass screwed to the underside of the hatch with a barrel bolt screwed to the plexiglass. The barrel bolt goes into a hole in the fiberglass in the edge of the hatch - no hardware. I'd like to clean this up, at least get all the holes filled, and I'm wondering what the original setup was.Thanks,John

 

[Ben]

I have the same question. . .

about my '86 Capri 22. I'm guessing they were similar, if not the same. The system on there now is fairly destroyed from a number of times that the hatch closed without my permission. There is a metal catch on the frame, and the hatch lid had a hinged screw with a wingnut that clamped around the catch on the frame.

 

[Aldo]

I Finally Improved Mine

John: My front hatch had a "barrel bolt", (something that looked like a screen door sliding bolt), from when it was new in 1980. I never felt very good about this, and finally I completed the installation of 2 latches to screw it down. I put the fork parts of the latch near the corners of the hatch opening, and the threaded parts with the thumbscrews on the underside of the hatch. I removed the hatch first, and added about an 1/8 inch of epoxy to fill in the recess and made it even with the thicker center of the hatch. If you want me to take a photo for you, I will, just reply to this forum. That would be a much better explanation than all these words. Anyhow, about 2 summers ago, we put the bow into waves for hours one day when we were cruising the boat, and it was more than a little damp in the V-berth that night. I feel much better about it now, but haven't tested it yet, because it's been raining here for about a month. Aldo

 

[Bayard Gross]

C-22 forward hatch

A problem with the locking mechanism in the per '85 C-22's is that the screws attached to the underside of the hatch can easily damage the cowling edge of the hatch when the hatch is closed suddenly. This is easily done with that spring style latch lifter.I attached two eye straps upside down onto the inside of the hatch at the forward end on the port and starboard sides using the holes that orginally held those previously mentioned screws. I screwed screws down from the outside of the hatch through the eye strap holes and then put nuts onto the screws from the inside. I then attached 3/16-inch line to these eye straps. On the inside of the hatch opening at the foward end on the port and starboard sides and below the eye straps, I placed two small cam cleats. The lines from the eye straps are run through the cam cleats as I pull down on them and thereby securely close the hatch.Now when I suddenly close the hatch, all there is to hit the cowling edge is the limp lines. Moreover, to secure the hatch is just a quick pull on the lines, more convenient than turning knobs or wing nuts.

 

[John]

Bayard ...

That's an interesting setup. I like the idea of using line and simple hardware that is out of the way and doesn't self destruct. I'm wondering if it might work to reverse the hardware and put the cleats on the hatch cover, leaving the eyes and line on the hatch opening. Maybe it would not tension up as well that way? Thanks for the feedback, Aldo as well.John

 

[Bayard Gross]

It won't tension up well,

if you put the lines on the hatch coaming and the cam cleats on the hatch cover which would have to be upside down as I think you will understand when you think about it.Don't try bending the lines to achieve a good angle to the cam cleats, just let them hang stright down onto the cam cleats when the hatch is closed.In place of the cam cleats which are expensive, you could use some small plastic/nylon cleats. They are more secure than the cam cleats but far less convient to use.