Does anybody know where I can find a replacement forward hatch for a Cherubini Hunter 27. Thanks for the help.
Forward hatch for Hunter 27
- Thread starter sean mcgrath
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The forward hatch for a Cherubini 27 is trapezoidal in shape and is no longer manufactured. A couple of Bomar models can be sucessfully adapted. A rectangular model can be adapted by trimming the opening. Check the archives for models and options.
If your handy you may be able to make a new one out of teak or Ipe or fiberglass (or all three). I keep threatening to do that, hopefully will some day soon. What is the problem with the hatch you have? Maybe there is an easy repair if something is broken.
Manny
Manny
I bought an H27 1978 last year with a broken hatch thinking it would be easy to replace but it's not trivial. I found it was much easier to repair the existing hatch. All i needed was a piece of lexan and a dremmel and then use 3M 5200 to glue it all back together.
good luck!
Andrew
good luck!
Andrew
This must be one of the most asked questions on the Hunterowners web site
If you search the site you will find a link thaty goes with this picture
It wasn't that big a deal to replace when I did it you need a small rt angled grinder.
If you search the site you will find a link thaty goes with this picture
It wasn't that big a deal to replace when I did it you need a small rt angled grinder.
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This past week I repaired my front hatch using Dow 795 caulk. http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1052 I was able to pull the pins on the hinges so that I could bring the hatch home to re-seal the lexan. I plan to re-seal the hatch in the main cabin next week. Just make sure you use blue tape as a mask because this caulk gets everywhere. Sail Ithica has some nice hatches that would give a real shippy look. http://www.sailithaca.com/deck_hatch.jpg
I replace the front hatch on my 79' h27 with a bomar rectangle type, it was a lot more involved than I thought it would be so if you go that route make sure you allow plenty of time.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Mine actually blew off the boat during transport! I think I'll end up using Don Casey's guidance to attempt to make a new one.
I made a hatch cover out of mahogany (all the teak on my boat is gone and replaced with mahogany, which is prettier). I did not like how I fit it and am making another one. The one I made is a trapezoid and turned out really well, quality-wise, but the fit is a problem to adapt removable-pin hinges to. Also it will not go down its own hole, since I left the moulded-in fibreglass spigot intact. For racing and handling spinnakers it's vital to get it out of the way.
I will be chopping out the spigot and making a new one (alá the Cherubini 44-style 'hatch box') over the fall. It will be square, and cutting away the spigot makes a larger hole (about 27" x 27"). It is actually quite simple to make-- a box within a box. You finish the coaming (inside) 'box' first (use 1/2" stock), then fit the outside one (of 3/4" stock) to the deck, and right before you are ready to glue it down you slice the outside box on the tablesaw to separate into a lid and a base. Make the lid at least 2-1/2" high. Then you attach the lower, fitted portion to the deck like a mounting ring, using a trim strip around the perimeter underneath like a backing plate. This adds stiffness to the deck too. Next you fit and attach the inside ring/coaming to it, up to within 1/2" of the inside of the Lexan (room for a gasket inside the hatch lid). Lastly you trim off the coaming under the deck (I like it about 3/4" deeper than the underside of the deck, for looks). If you see the C-44 at Annapolis this season, look at the foredeck hatch, and you'll see this is how it's made.
The whole wood structure gets saturated in epoxy and varnished for a UV barrier (or, you could just paint it all with Brightside). Once it's bedded down I will paint the bottom deck color. The top will be 3/8" or the same 1/2" translucent white Lexan as the one I already made (looks good against varnished mahogany). It can have ribs in it for stiffness and room for a solar vent.
I am eager to get this done (first I need some good wood for this) and I'll try to get my site up and online which will have pictures.
In the meantime I reiterate my age-old request that if anyone has a reasonably intact fibreglass H25 or H27 hatch lid and will send it to me, I will mend it and make a mold from it to produce new parts. The guy who sends me his old hatch gets a new one free.
I will be chopping out the spigot and making a new one (alá the Cherubini 44-style 'hatch box') over the fall. It will be square, and cutting away the spigot makes a larger hole (about 27" x 27"). It is actually quite simple to make-- a box within a box. You finish the coaming (inside) 'box' first (use 1/2" stock), then fit the outside one (of 3/4" stock) to the deck, and right before you are ready to glue it down you slice the outside box on the tablesaw to separate into a lid and a base. Make the lid at least 2-1/2" high. Then you attach the lower, fitted portion to the deck like a mounting ring, using a trim strip around the perimeter underneath like a backing plate. This adds stiffness to the deck too. Next you fit and attach the inside ring/coaming to it, up to within 1/2" of the inside of the Lexan (room for a gasket inside the hatch lid). Lastly you trim off the coaming under the deck (I like it about 3/4" deeper than the underside of the deck, for looks). If you see the C-44 at Annapolis this season, look at the foredeck hatch, and you'll see this is how it's made.
The whole wood structure gets saturated in epoxy and varnished for a UV barrier (or, you could just paint it all with Brightside). Once it's bedded down I will paint the bottom deck color. The top will be 3/8" or the same 1/2" translucent white Lexan as the one I already made (looks good against varnished mahogany). It can have ribs in it for stiffness and room for a solar vent.
I am eager to get this done (first I need some good wood for this) and I'll try to get my site up and online which will have pictures.
In the meantime I reiterate my age-old request that if anyone has a reasonably intact fibreglass H25 or H27 hatch lid and will send it to me, I will mend it and make a mold from it to produce new parts. The guy who sends me his old hatch gets a new one free.
Sean,
I had the same problem on my H-27. I replaced the trapezoidal hatch with a square Bomar hatch. I needed to trim out the deck just a little (did it with a router) and the square hatch fit right in. If you e-mail me with your address I'd be happy to send you complete step by step instruction set I made up. I did this about 9 years ago and the hatch works great. The complete job took less than a day and the results were great. From the deck and from inside you can't tell that it's a replacement hatch. When I was considering the replacement I determined that ffixing the exsiting just was not worth it as the origional material looked to be a little flimsey.
Howard
Nelsonhow@netscape.net
I had the same problem on my H-27. I replaced the trapezoidal hatch with a square Bomar hatch. I needed to trim out the deck just a little (did it with a router) and the square hatch fit right in. If you e-mail me with your address I'd be happy to send you complete step by step instruction set I made up. I did this about 9 years ago and the hatch works great. The complete job took less than a day and the results were great. From the deck and from inside you can't tell that it's a replacement hatch. When I was considering the replacement I determined that ffixing the exsiting just was not worth it as the origional material looked to be a little flimsey.
Howard
Nelsonhow@netscape.net
I replaced both hatches on my 1981 h27, it is same as the one being discussed. Bomar makes a trapozidal hatch that fits with only very minor trimming on each side of hatch rough opening, it is special order out of bomar catalog. It retails for 600$, a local chandlery sold it to me for 450$.
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