Forward Deck/Cabin Question (Anchor Locker???)

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Aug 27, 2006
126
C&C 29 MK-1 Mandeville (Lake Pontchartrain), LA
I'm refurbishing my 1991 Mac 26S. I've finished painting the hull, put on a new rub rail, etc and now want to do something with the For'deck. I want to swap out the old plastic cleat for an SS cleat and maybe instal an 8" round deck hatch, between the for'ard hatch and the cleat. With this, I want to make a sail locker & anchor rode locker out of the forward v-berth area inside. Today after looking in there, I noticed an open cavity between the inside cabin ceiling and the deck. It almost looks like this cavity could be my anchor locker if you accessed it from the deck. Question: Has anyone out there done anything with this open cavity area, below that for'ard cleat & below the deck? Has anyone made an anchor locker from this area. What is that space, given that the inside cabin ceiling does not follow along the roof below the deck wall? Kevin B.
 
Jun 5, 2004
997
Macgregor 26D Boise
My solution

See my pics at www.photobucket.com/albums/v721/oreana123 I cut the forward bulkhead in the vberth area with a drywall knife. It is very thin. I store 200 ft of 1/2 in rode with 10 feet of SS chain to attach to my Bruce.
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,497
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
check site out

Check out "Dulcinea" on the website for an anchor locker. My plan is to replace my center cleat with two mounted outboard and forward some. This will reduce the rubbing from my dock lines. See Vaczovsky's mods on the same site. I will install a padeye where the center cleat is for the mast raising system.
 
May 4, 2005
4,062
Macgregor 26d Ft Lauderdale, Fl
anchor locker

both good ideas posted below... another good idea I've seen, was boxing in the bottom of the rode locker, (w/ fiberglass) with the bottom angled forward and downward. at the bottom forward edge of the locker a 'clam' added and a hole drilled so any water or mud could be flushed overboard. pls post what you do! ps: (justin) if you right click over the Dulcinea link, and 'open in new window' you can get the fully qualified URL, for posting, and bookmarking. ie; http://www.macgregor-boats.com/wiseman/wiseman.html (rather than navigate thru the site) the macgregor-sailors.com site and the macgregor web ring have a lot of useful info....
 
Aug 27, 2006
126
C&C 29 MK-1 Mandeville (Lake Pontchartrain), LA
Open Cavity?

Thanks for the ideas and links. I'm definitely going to try to make an anchor locker out of this area. But I was wondering what's in this open area and what's this cavity for. If and when I drill into it, to open it up, what's inside? From the inside of the cabin, there's a plexiglass plate covering it up. Is it just hollow inside? Kevin
 
Aug 27, 2006
126
C&C 29 MK-1 Mandeville (Lake Pontchartrain), LA
Your project?

Oreana 123, I'm unable to open up the pics or website. Could you email me any pics or info on what you did? My email is: Kevin.Bodden@usss.dhs.gov I really want to drill into this open area and use it and am curious about your project! Thanks, Kevin
 
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Chris & Lenore - Mac 26S

Our "hawse pipe" experience

Sometimes these ideas don't always work out... I wanted to store my anchor rode below deck so bad - I bought a hawse pipe for our previous boat. Before it could be installed, we traded up to a Mac 26S, which had a 3" dia hawse pipe already mounted. I added a large plastic dish pan to the space under it (perfect fit) and drained it with 1/2 line to the galley thruhull. It worked - but was not very functional, for a number of reasons. First off, it is a pain to stuff 100 feet of line and 10 feet of cahin through that hole. In a rapid deployment, the line can tangle - and you have to crawl into the front berth, remove the access panel, remove the tray and untangle it. This only happened once, but at the WRONG TIME! If you store the rode wet, it will not dry. The area is too confined and heats up nicely in the sun - translation "it smells evil". On the positive side, if your boat is green - your rode will soon match! Finally, we use two anchors most of the time. They need to both be at the front and quick to deploy. Can't stuff two rodes down a single pipe and there is not sufficient room for separate pipes and line storage. That all said, an anchor locker is interesting - but it needs to be reasonably water tight. We sail on the Great Lakes and often have water over the bow. But - there is that two anchor problem again. I want them both "at the ready" on the pointy end. Chris
 
Jul 7, 2004
8,497
Hunter 30T Cheney, KS
flotation

material is up there and it gets everywhere. I had to open it up to install a fairlead for my furler.
 
May 4, 2005
4,062
Macgregor 26d Ft Lauderdale, Fl
2 anchors, pvc pipe on the pullpit

look for rambing rod's photo post, he's got a nice setup for 2 anchors. (two 4" diameter pvc tubes clamped to the pullpit) the floatation is blocks of stryofoam, and it flys everywhere when you open the access, or cut into it. I replaced a lot of mine with closed cel foam. sealing the rode locker is the smart way to go, and use a watertight port for the cabin access... however the top of the compartment will also need to be sealed. towards the deck.... the bow cleat is weak, and should be backed up, or replaced with 2 on each side.... (ps: I have 1 pvc tube and put my rode in a mesh laundry bag tied between the pulpit sides) the 2nd anchor is in a box in the laz... along with a storm anchor I rarely use)
 
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Chris @ Lenore - Mac 26S

Something else to back while at it

Good point about adding a backing plate to the mooring cleat. Don't overlook the strap eye you attach the lower gin pole block to. The first part of mast raising places incredible stress on those two little bolts. Ours was pulled halfway through the core (and the core was sound). Would make for a really bad day if it let go... I can vouch for Rod's setup - watched him anchor several times in the North Channel this past summer. It works well, as does "their" technique for deploying. This as opposed to us pulling most of the rode up through the hawse pipe (because the last thing you want is a tangle down there) - and proceeding to have it pile (and tangle) on deck. A rode locker needs to be sealed against the deck. Anything getting into that floation compartment ends up under the V berth. I have a couple hawse pipes if anyone is looking... Chris
 
Jun 5, 2004
997
Macgregor 26D Boise
Anchor Locker Experience

Ok it has been over a year now that I have been using my anchor rode locker. I wanted to use a larger Bruce-type of anchor for the conditions in which I mostly sail- I am never in the saltwater. Most of my sailing is on large lakes where the wind direction follows the adiabatic and catabatic flow off of mountain ranges, and the wind shifts 180 degrees every night. The Bruce has great resetting ability, but is a little dangerous to store down below, or anywhere besides on a bow roller, so I started a new project: Bow roller with hawse pipe and below deck storage of the anchor rode. Most of the water here in the inland northwest is relatively clean, and storage of the wet rode is not a problem for smells. The cover of my anchor rode locker is a tough marine netting that I have sewn re-inforcments into and installed SS snaps to hold the coiled rode. I shaped a large plank of mahogany that has a thickness of 2 inches. I installed a bow roller on this plank. It was necessary to rout wood on the bottom of the plank to accomodate the two converging ridges on the topsides of the deck at the stem, to allow the plank to lie flat on the foredeck. I made a backing plate to bolt the plank to and sandwiched the assembly with lots of sealant and 4 3/8 SS bolts countersunk on the top of the plank. Of course I routed holes to clear the SS stem fitting. In fact, the factory stem fitting (mounted with one bolt on the side of the hull) had an extra hole that allowed me to extend the stem fitting upwards enough to clear the added thickness of the mahogany plank. At the same time, I replaced the bow eye. All of this work was done after removing the foremost bulkhead at the point of the V berth. There is a surprising amount of space in there. I require at least 200 feet of 1/2 inch anchor rode for my safety. I also have 10 feet of SS chain as a leader to the anchor with a quality swivel. Attached to the Bruce, I have never had a problem setting the anchor, and I have sat on the hook in steady 30 knots of wind (at Lake Powell) and gone to sleep in confidence. The ten feet of chain allows the rode to be out of the sun (UV damage). How does it store? Well it is tedious to feed the rode down the hawse pipe. I would recommend going as large as you can fit in here, mine is a 3x6 inch opening and I can work my hand down inside if necessary. I have never had a tangle, as the rope pays out just like it goes in and I use a kind of looping feed as I pull the rode up and stow it. It then sits in a mesh container and dries. My anchor has a hole drilled for a quick release self tehered pin to keep it in place and I usually wrap a bungy cord just to be sure the anchor has some give to its mount. How does it deploy? When I want to anchor I go forward, rotate and release the pin and push the anchor off of the bow roller and it is heavy enough to pull the rode up out of the deck pipe (the deck pipe has a hold open on the cap). I usually run the anchor line straight up the bow roller and replace the pin to capture the line on the bow roller assembly. The anchor will nicely balance itself on the roller til its time to drop it. A really great thing about the plank it is mounted on is that it is thick enough to easily support my weight (200 lbs of pure muscle). I often stand on the end of the plank and steady myself by holding the forestay when approaching a dock. If I ground the boat on the shore, the overhang of the plank allows access to the shore without getting feet wet. And if the shore is a steep bank, I often just step off and on the boat easily, holding onto the forestay. I'll post my picture link one more time. John S
 
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