I removed the starboard forward bulkhead from my 1980 hunter 27. (the large one that separates the head and main salon. It was warped from some compression, I think from a lightning strike years ago. I am wondering how important this structure actually is to the overall integrity of the cabin and boat. I would like to just put up a curtin to separate the head from everything else. I still have the smaller port bulkhead in place. I got a little caried away, originally I was trying to fix the sliding door to the head, but realized the wall was separating and warped. Once I started I couldn't turn back. Am I in trouble here? How can I begin to reconstuct this wall? Should I call in a carpenter, I am realizing I don't really have the tools or skill set for this project. Any thoughts? andrew
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Ed Schenck
At the very least. . .
I would fabricate some type of support between the cabin top and the sole on that side. I think a quality 2x4 would work but a 4x4 would be better. Do you have enough teak from the bulkhead removal to wrap the 2x4? And maybe a 6" square to make a pad at the top for the 2x4. The bottom of the 2x4 should go to the hull or something that is sitting on the hull/keel. Does the deck appear to be compressed around the mast step? You could loosen the stays and shrouds and jack up the deck before you cut the 2x4 to size. Personally I would go to the bank for the loan. Then I would get a professional to put the bulkhead back after fixing any compression. The H27 deserves a bulkhead.
I would fabricate some type of support between the cabin top and the sole on that side. I think a quality 2x4 would work but a 4x4 would be better. Do you have enough teak from the bulkhead removal to wrap the 2x4? And maybe a 6" square to make a pad at the top for the 2x4. The bottom of the 2x4 should go to the hull or something that is sitting on the hull/keel. Does the deck appear to be compressed around the mast step? You could loosen the stays and shrouds and jack up the deck before you cut the 2x4 to size. Personally I would go to the bank for the loan. Then I would get a professional to put the bulkhead back after fixing any compression. The H27 deserves a bulkhead.
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Andrew
Compression Post
Thanks for the response. The deck is compressed around the mast, But I still have the 4x4 compression post in place. I am happy to accept the compression around the mast, seems a bit difficult to jack up the cabin. How is this accomplished? The inside lining of the cabin is made of molded plastic. Will jacking not effect the compression post? It will be difficult to attach a 2x4 with the 6" square to the plastic roof molding as it is curved on the sides. The bottom will have to connect to the setee some how. It is only flat at the top dead centre of the boat and I think can only be connected to the keel or hull in the middle. Still a little confused.
Thanks for the response. The deck is compressed around the mast, But I still have the 4x4 compression post in place. I am happy to accept the compression around the mast, seems a bit difficult to jack up the cabin. How is this accomplished? The inside lining of the cabin is made of molded plastic. Will jacking not effect the compression post? It will be difficult to attach a 2x4 with the 6" square to the plastic roof molding as it is curved on the sides. The bottom will have to connect to the setee some how. It is only flat at the top dead centre of the boat and I think can only be connected to the keel or hull in the middle. Still a little confused.
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Carl foster
Andrew
I would guess you have a multitude of problems there.First is the compression post,is it original and sound?As you said bulkhead was warped,makes me think compression post is"shortening"from decay caused by the depression you say is around mast.First step is to correct"depression" then jack cabin top back to original,then fabricate new post.By the sounds you are not to sure of your ability on this so would probably be best to seek professional help. There are many entrys in the archives on the mast step and compression post problem that you might research and get an idea on what you face.
I would guess you have a multitude of problems there.First is the compression post,is it original and sound?As you said bulkhead was warped,makes me think compression post is"shortening"from decay caused by the depression you say is around mast.First step is to correct"depression" then jack cabin top back to original,then fabricate new post.By the sounds you are not to sure of your ability on this so would probably be best to seek professional help. There are many entrys in the archives on the mast step and compression post problem that you might research and get an idea on what you face.
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Andrew
Calling in the semi-pros
I have a cabinet maker coming tommorrow to look at the situation and see if he can rebuild the bulkhead. Unfortunately he has little knowledge of boats and their structure. What type of wood should I be requesting for this wall? It is quite humid in the tropics this time of year, should the wood sit in the boat for a few days before its cut. The compression post seems to be in good shape. This idea of jacking seems quite difficult. What type of tool(s) do you use. I think the biggest problem will be to get it to look like the rest of the teak interior.
I have a cabinet maker coming tommorrow to look at the situation and see if he can rebuild the bulkhead. Unfortunately he has little knowledge of boats and their structure. What type of wood should I be requesting for this wall? It is quite humid in the tropics this time of year, should the wood sit in the boat for a few days before its cut. The compression post seems to be in good shape. This idea of jacking seems quite difficult. What type of tool(s) do you use. I think the biggest problem will be to get it to look like the rest of the teak interior.
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David Foster
Check the mast step
By that I mean everything between the top of the compression post and the mast itself. It consists of: Cabin liner Bottom fiberglass layer of the cabin roof End grain balsa for stiffness Top fiberglass layer of the cabin roof Added plywood layer for extra stiffening of the area around the mast step Aluminum step itself - the fixture the mast fits over. If/when water enters this sandwich through the bolt holes that hold the step, or the wire pipe, the wood (balsa and or plywood) will rot. The mast (driven by about 2 tons of stress from your standing rigging) will push the (now flexible) cabin roof down around the compression post. Since the cabin wall is the only support around the compression post, it will take the stress, which could (in an extreme case) lead to the buckling you describe. In fact, this is about the only cause I can imagine for your symptoms. The best way to check this cause is to take down the mast. With no stress from the rigging, or weight from the mast, the cabin roof will probably revert to its original shape (mine did - this is experience talking.) The fix is to carefully remove the top layers of the cabin roof/mast step, scoop out all the rotted wood, and then rebuild the sandwich. This is a moderately skilled fiberglass job. I would recommend that you replace the balsa layer with an aluminum plate, which is stiffer, cheaper, and much faster setting than epoxy. See the archives for a more complete description of this job, which I had done last year. Then, I would replace the bulkhead. Although it does not carry the direct load of the mast, it is a key stiffening member in the structure of the boat. The bottom end of the side shrouds are pulling _up_ with about 3 tons at the toerail. (The other ton is at the bow and stern.) Also, the bulkhead will be important if you get caught in heavy seas, and the hull is straining with twisting and bending forces. (All, as always, IMHO.) David Lady Lillie
By that I mean everything between the top of the compression post and the mast itself. It consists of: Cabin liner Bottom fiberglass layer of the cabin roof End grain balsa for stiffness Top fiberglass layer of the cabin roof Added plywood layer for extra stiffening of the area around the mast step Aluminum step itself - the fixture the mast fits over. If/when water enters this sandwich through the bolt holes that hold the step, or the wire pipe, the wood (balsa and or plywood) will rot. The mast (driven by about 2 tons of stress from your standing rigging) will push the (now flexible) cabin roof down around the compression post. Since the cabin wall is the only support around the compression post, it will take the stress, which could (in an extreme case) lead to the buckling you describe. In fact, this is about the only cause I can imagine for your symptoms. The best way to check this cause is to take down the mast. With no stress from the rigging, or weight from the mast, the cabin roof will probably revert to its original shape (mine did - this is experience talking.) The fix is to carefully remove the top layers of the cabin roof/mast step, scoop out all the rotted wood, and then rebuild the sandwich. This is a moderately skilled fiberglass job. I would recommend that you replace the balsa layer with an aluminum plate, which is stiffer, cheaper, and much faster setting than epoxy. See the archives for a more complete description of this job, which I had done last year. Then, I would replace the bulkhead. Although it does not carry the direct load of the mast, it is a key stiffening member in the structure of the boat. The bottom end of the side shrouds are pulling _up_ with about 3 tons at the toerail. (The other ton is at the bow and stern.) Also, the bulkhead will be important if you get caught in heavy seas, and the hull is straining with twisting and bending forces. (All, as always, IMHO.) David Lady Lillie
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