Forestay tension in a breeze.

[-wb-]

Last night we were sailing a Hunter 23.5 and the wind went to 20 mph in a small squall/rainstorm. Had to dump the main totally to keep the boat on its feet a little bit but the forestay was so slack that the jib was round as a spinnaker.

Can you put enough vang on to keep the forestay tight even when the main is flogging?

-wb-

 

[sesmith]

The forestay is tensioned by the shrouds. The vang influences main sail shape. A little confused by your description of the jib. Were you sailing into or with the wind? If your forestay was actually flopping loose, there's something wrong with the rigging. 20 mph is a little much for the boat without reefing, but we have sailed with all our sail up and gusts in excess of that. It can get exciting. We have a furler on the jib and usually reduce sail there 1st. The boat will sail better if you reef the main at much over 15 or so. FWIW, our 23.5 rounds up into the wind on it's own long before we'd have to go swimming, but not always before the bottom of the sails get wet.

 

[kloudie1]

You can vang against the topping lift to tension the headstay in that instance.. The topping lift better be a strong one ! The main sheet and traveller can be used for this as well.. but it sounds like the swept back shrouds need a lot more tension to keep the headstay taut without resorting to the vang.

 

[Mike in Cape Cod]

Get yourself a 'loos guage' used to correctly tension the side shrouds and forestay. The directions that come with the gauge tell you the correct tension to achieve according to a given wire diameter. You must also be sure that the mast is straight and has a slight rake backwards (BEFORE ADJUSTING WITH THE GUAGE) and this can be measured by hanging a weight off the main halyard, dangeling a few inches off the top of the cabin. ( i use a small cresent wrench) The wrench should hang a few inches away (aft) from the mast to indicate an aft "rake" The centering is accomplished by adjusting the shrouds on the port or starboard side, and the rake is adjusted by tightening or loosening the forestay using the turnbuckles, and readjusting the side shrouds. When lowering the mast, now you only have to count the number of turns necessary to release the forestay/clevis pin when de-rigging and remember to tighten the forestay turnbuckle the same number of turns the next time you raise the mast and your rig is already tuned and set to go. You should see an improvement in performance....

 

[centerline]

Last night we were sailing a Hunter 23.5 and the wind went to 20 mph in a small squall/rainstorm. Had to dump the main totally to keep the boat on its feet a little bit but the forestay was so slack that the jib was round as a spinnaker.

Can you put enough vang on to keep the forestay tight even when the main is flogging?

-wb-

it makes no difference what the wind speed is or what technique you use to sail, because even though that may or may not be a problem in itself, that is not the problem with your question....
If your mast is standing, your forestay should never be loose, with or without the mainsail or boom even attached to the mast.
when the mast is up the forestay pulls the mast tight against the shrouds. on some boats the backstay may come into play, but your forestay should always be tight.
To insure a proper rigging tension you should check the king post in the cabin under the mast to make sure its all sound, top and bottom as well as the bed for it. also make sure your deck at the tabernacle is not soft with core issues, then check to make sure the stemhead fitting and chainplates are sound and secure. if all these attachment/pressure points pass inspection you can then proceed to properly adjust the mast and tension the rigging (providing the stays themselves are in good order) so its fairly snug. using a gauge is the best way to do this, but even after tensioning it properly, it will probably need to be redone after a few hours of sailing or after it sets for a few days (usually readjusting only the forestay).... the rigging will pull the boat into shape and once it gets to the proper spot, it will "harden up" and stay there until the tension is removed from the rigging for a few hours. all boats are different, and depending on if you trailer sail or moor you boat, you will have to learn what is right and how your boat takes the strain... loose rigging is hard on a boat and equipment. properly tensioned rigging, even though it has lots of strain on it, is way easier on the boat and lets the boat handle and be handled like it was designed for....

 

[-wb-]

The forestay is tensioned by the shrouds. The vang influences main sail shape. A little confused by your description of the jib. Were you sailing into or with the wind? If your forestay was actually flopping loose, there's something wrong with the rigging. 20 mph is a little much for the boat without reefing, but we have sailed with all our sail up and gusts in excess of that. It can get exciting. We have a furler on the jib and usually reduce sail there 1st. The boat will sail better if you reef the main at much over 15 or so. FWIW, our 23.5 rounds up into the wind on it's own long before we'd have to go swimming, but not always before the bottom of the sails get wet.

We were sailing upwind, we were too slow or too lazy to reef, racing in a Wednesday night fun race. The forestay is not sloppy at the dock but I have not measured the tension as I am just a guest helmsman. With the main flogging and the jib trimmed almost all the way in, not quite but almost, The forestay (hank on jib) had well over a foot of sag. I know the owner has tuned the boat to recommended numbers but I don't know what those are. I was feathering and doing ok, the jib was very loaded, but the sag looked really excessive to me. It sounds as if the consensus is that the shrouds need significantly more tension.

 

[-wb-]

You can vang against the topping lift to tension the headstay in that instance.. The topping lift better be a strong one ! The main sheet and traveller can be used for this as well.. but it sounds like the swept back shrouds need a lot more tension to keep the headstay taut without resorting to the vang.

The 23.5 does not have a traveler, but I can see that would have helped a lot in this instance.
So another vote for more shroud tension.

 

[-wb-]

I have to disagree with the forestay always being tight, on a Catalina 22 we sail downwind with a ridiculous amount of forestay play. My sail maker say to let the mast go forward until just before you run over it. That being said, you make a very good point about the stem fitting, or the king post, or the deck underneath the tabernacle. I will do some inspecting.
Thanks -wb-

 

[sesmith]

This may help:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNHRcjg_ga0oJgA1KmPuRRmt82T8rQ&cad=rja

You can pretty much follow the instructions for a B&R rig although you won't find reverse diagonals for adjusting prebend on a 23.5. Also see the "folding rule" method for checking tension.