On Hunter 23.5,is forestay same length with Cdi furler,as without furler? Plan on replacing after season and would like to have new one on hand before taking furler apart.Any recommondations on riggers would be helpful.
Forestay replacement
- Thread starter DJN51
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I believe the CDI furler I have utilizes the existing forestay on my 260. The drum fits over the adjuster and the plastic luff extrusion slips over the stay for nearly its full length to the head. If your rigging is dated I'd think seriously about new fittings and stays while you're at it. They do get tired and generally won't warn the casual sailor when they just give up.
If you want an added tip that I've found to be a sweet addition for the guys who step their mast often I'd subtract the size a folding closure on the forestay length. A closure/quick release lever works like a charm to pull the rig into tension without having to over tighten the rig with a gin pole just to get a pin in it. Here's a pic of the closure/lever available at JSI and CSJohnson among others.
Sorry I can't recommend a rigger in the windy city but I'm sure somebody here can. Good luck, Mike
If you want an added tip that I've found to be a sweet addition for the guys who step their mast often I'd subtract the size a folding closure on the forestay length. A closure/quick release lever works like a charm to pull the rig into tension without having to over tighten the rig with a gin pole just to get a pin in it. Here's a pic of the closure/lever available at JSI and CSJohnson among others.
Sorry I can't recommend a rigger in the windy city but I'm sure somebody here can. Good luck, Mike
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I think on the CDI furlers the forestay must be made up after the wire has passed through the extrusion. So if there are sweged fittings on the ends this must be done by the rigger after the furler comes off the boat. Also he could then make the new forestay exactly the same length as the old one.
On my previous boat I used nicopress fittings on the rigging and was very pleased with them. Easy to do, not expensive and allowed me freedom to do it as I wanted.
The hyfield-Johnson lever is an excellent idea if you do any trailering at all. I put one on my previous boat and would like one on the 260. Just be sure your sail luff is short enough to have the foil shortened by the 8" or so required for the lever to sit below the drum.
Mike it looks like from the picture that you are using the 14-206 model lever, is this correct ? the rating for it is only for a working load of 1000 lbs. The bigger lever 14-210 is rated at 1600 lbs but uses 5/16" pins. So if you have the bigger lever did you have to drill out the holes in the forestay and furler or can you use smaller pins in the bigger holes? The wire on the 260 is rated at 3300 lbs I believe, so these levers would really be the weakest link. I may switch to nicopress when I change the furler/forestay, I think a nicopress fitting is rated at 80% of wire strength, don't know about swagged fittings, look stronger.
Bob
On my previous boat I used nicopress fittings on the rigging and was very pleased with them. Easy to do, not expensive and allowed me freedom to do it as I wanted.
The hyfield-Johnson lever is an excellent idea if you do any trailering at all. I put one on my previous boat and would like one on the 260. Just be sure your sail luff is short enough to have the foil shortened by the 8" or so required for the lever to sit below the drum.
Mike it looks like from the picture that you are using the 14-206 model lever, is this correct ? the rating for it is only for a working load of 1000 lbs. The bigger lever 14-210 is rated at 1600 lbs but uses 5/16" pins. So if you have the bigger lever did you have to drill out the holes in the forestay and furler or can you use smaller pins in the bigger holes? The wire on the 260 is rated at 3300 lbs I believe, so these levers would really be the weakest link. I may switch to nicopress when I change the furler/forestay, I think a nicopress fitting is rated at 80% of wire strength, don't know about swagged fittings, look stronger.
Bob
Bob,
My lever is a 206 that I've trimmed down to fit as low as possible. The pin in the base of the CDI was 1/4" pin and yes it'd be the weakest link at a conservative 2200lbs dbl shear strength. The 210 lever was almost 2" taller and used a 5/16 pin but I'd still need a 1/4" pin for the furler end. The load on the lever when the rig is properly tensioned is about 50% of its "working load" and about 30% of its "breaking load". Just slightly higher than an ideal 20% but within my comfort zone if the rig is properly tuned/maintained and isn't pushing solid objects like a low bridge or a tree limb
By the way the threaded swage fitting on the lower section of the forestay will fit down through the inside of the CDI pvc furler extrusion. I'd use a tag line to pull it through but it can happen with the fitting on. I still have the extrusion piece I trimmed off when I added my lever so I'll take a pic tonight and get a few measurements from it too.
Mike
My lever is a 206 that I've trimmed down to fit as low as possible. The pin in the base of the CDI was 1/4" pin and yes it'd be the weakest link at a conservative 2200lbs dbl shear strength. The 210 lever was almost 2" taller and used a 5/16 pin but I'd still need a 1/4" pin for the furler end. The load on the lever when the rig is properly tensioned is about 50% of its "working load" and about 30% of its "breaking load". Just slightly higher than an ideal 20% but within my comfort zone if the rig is properly tuned/maintained and isn't pushing solid objects like a low bridge or a tree limb
By the way the threaded swage fitting on the lower section of the forestay will fit down through the inside of the CDI pvc furler extrusion. I'd use a tag line to pull it through but it can happen with the fitting on. I still have the extrusion piece I trimmed off when I added my lever so I'll take a pic tonight and get a few measurements from it too.
Mike
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Not sure...we also have a CDI furler on ours. Might as well wait til you get the boat on the trailer for the winter, anyhow, to make it up. I would recommend something similar to our new setup for the attachment at the mast:
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32811&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1280973312
It helps take the stain of flexing off of the swaged t fitting at the end of the forestay. Details of how we ended up with this change is in the "demasted" post further down the page.
Also, for someone to do the job, Vermont Sailing Partners in Winooski, Vt (near Burlington) did well by us. Excellent customer service and work. Also is a complete sailmaking shop. You could just pull it off and send the cable up to him (and sails too, for any inspection/work needed).
Scott
Mike, the 210 lever looks like the best option for the 260, I'll probably go with one of those when I buy the new furler.
thanks, Bob
thanks, Bob
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