Now that winter is here I have been looking at my Force 10 alcohol heater a little more closely. I do not have any operating instructions. I have a presure gage on the fuel tank. How many pounds of presure should I put in it to operate. Also another boat owner tells me that for every gallon of fuel I burn I will also introduce an equal gallon of condensation. Really?
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unvented heat
If it's an unvented heater, yes, you will introduce mucho moisture, with alcohol, propane, etc... I don't know about equal amounts? Another drawback of unvented alcohol or propane heat is: YOU NEED TO VENT IT! Open hatch or something, or risk not waking up.
If it's an unvented heater, yes, you will introduce mucho moisture, with alcohol, propane, etc... I don't know about equal amounts? Another drawback of unvented alcohol or propane heat is: YOU NEED TO VENT IT! Open hatch or something, or risk not waking up.
Thanks, I have air circulation on board anyway since I often smoke a cigar. I have short power and that is my main source but if the power goes out I want a backup. I know about the toxic fumes, I have used the portable version of this heater in Japan. Maybe I will upgrade my system next year but for now I am spending money on my "A" list of repairs and upgrades. The joys of new boat ownership.
Desmond, I use a computer fan(draw.8 watts)
at 12 volts. If you consider the concentrationof gases that become harmful you will soon realize the just a 24 cfm fan will keep you out of trouble. Let us suppose that your cabin is 6 feet high, 9 feet wide, and 12 feet long then 6x9x12 =648 cubic feet divided by 24 equals 27 minutes for an air change or 2 air changes per hour. Since you confess to enjoying a cigar, you are probably at greater risk from smoke and carbon monoxide from that then from the alcohol heater. Place a very cold pan above your alcohol heater for several seconds and watch the condensate form on the pan. That is the water of combustion. The carbon dioxide we can't see but the concentration has to get above 200 parts per million before there is any problem.
at 12 volts. If you consider the concentrationof gases that become harmful you will soon realize the just a 24 cfm fan will keep you out of trouble. Let us suppose that your cabin is 6 feet high, 9 feet wide, and 12 feet long then 6x9x12 =648 cubic feet divided by 24 equals 27 minutes for an air change or 2 air changes per hour. Since you confess to enjoying a cigar, you are probably at greater risk from smoke and carbon monoxide from that then from the alcohol heater. Place a very cold pan above your alcohol heater for several seconds and watch the condensate form on the pan. That is the water of combustion. The carbon dioxide we can't see but the concentration has to get above 200 parts per million before there is any problem.
Thanks, good idea using a computer fan, I just happen to have an old C that I am about to take apart. I do not smoke often inside the cabin but when I do the cabin hatch and aft entry are both open to help air circulation. I was thinking of buying an alarm for the noxious gasses when I fire up the white gas heater. I wont be sleeping with it on though. Any idea how many pounds the tank should be presurized? Since this has become more of a conversation on condensation what do you use to reduce it. I placed two of the smaller electric air dryers on each end of my boat. The brand name excapes me for the moment. One in the head and the other in the quarter birth. They are on constantly. Seems to help. There is a guy in my marina who is installing a woodstove in his boat and claims that will do the trick. I know it works in my house, drys out a Christmas tree in no time. Anyway thanks for your input. This boat is new to me and I am always willing to listen/read about input.
I don't have a condensate problem
because when I rebuilt Bietzpadlin I lined the hull from the turn of the bilge to the center of the deck with Airex core and glassed over that. It serves both as added strength and as insulation. However I do have three computer fans on a dedicated 5 watt solar panel and they run all of the time that the sun shines. A small wood stove uses an awful lot of air besides heating what you have so you get good air changes. All of the calories that you and your crew comsume are converted into water vapor and carbon dioxide. Just put six people in a car on a rainy day and watch the windows fog up. They don't do that when the car is empty. Just pump the tank until you get a good flame. Most pressure stoves that I have seen didn't even have a gauge.
because when I rebuilt Bietzpadlin I lined the hull from the turn of the bilge to the center of the deck with Airex core and glassed over that. It serves both as added strength and as insulation. However I do have three computer fans on a dedicated 5 watt solar panel and they run all of the time that the sun shines. A small wood stove uses an awful lot of air besides heating what you have so you get good air changes. All of the calories that you and your crew comsume are converted into water vapor and carbon dioxide. Just put six people in a car on a rainy day and watch the windows fog up. They don't do that when the car is empty. Just pump the tank until you get a good flame. Most pressure stoves that I have seen didn't even have a gauge.
Thanks. I saw on another forum where someone said their best sourse of heat was 4 naked bodys. Not likely to happen for me though. Wife said no. I think I will start saving up for a wood stove. Seems like you would be feeding such a small stove all the time though.
woodstove
I really like the woodstove concept and could live with the storage of fuel issues. However a big downside in my mind is the 7" hole and minimum of 36" flue length required for the exhaust. Whereas the Dickinson Newport propane heater only requires a 3" hole and that's for both supply and exhaust. my 2 cents. jcm R-28 Victoria
I really like the woodstove concept and could live with the storage of fuel issues. However a big downside in my mind is the 7" hole and minimum of 36" flue length required for the exhaust. Whereas the Dickinson Newport propane heater only requires a 3" hole and that's for both supply and exhaust. my 2 cents. jcm R-28 Victoria
Safe Heat
On a 33 ft. boat with shore power the Caframo units rated best by Practical Sailor would probably do the job in our Northwest climate. I have one on my 35 footer which keeps it warm down to freezing. They are very safe and don't create condensation. For heat away from the dock the type of heaters that bring in combustion air from the outside and vent the products of combustion to the outside are the safest and don't fill the boat with condensate or noxious gasses. I am using a Toyotomi 2800 on my current boat which works fantastically well and takes diesel fuel from the main tank. On a previous boat I had a Wallas installed with equal success. I am sure there are other brands that use the same principle. What sense does it make to spend money on fuel to heat the boat and then have to open it up to the outside to vent condensate and gasses--along with the heat?
On a 33 ft. boat with shore power the Caframo units rated best by Practical Sailor would probably do the job in our Northwest climate. I have one on my 35 footer which keeps it warm down to freezing. They are very safe and don't create condensation. For heat away from the dock the type of heaters that bring in combustion air from the outside and vent the products of combustion to the outside are the safest and don't fill the boat with condensate or noxious gasses. I am using a Toyotomi 2800 on my current boat which works fantastically well and takes diesel fuel from the main tank. On a previous boat I had a Wallas installed with equal success. I am sure there are other brands that use the same principle. What sense does it make to spend money on fuel to heat the boat and then have to open it up to the outside to vent condensate and gasses--along with the heat?
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